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Old 06-29-2019, 11:16 AM
67drake's Avatar
67drake 67drake is offline
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Default Compressor question

I have an old 80’s era 30 gallon compressor with the separate motor and cylinder, runs on 220. Problem is the tank rusted out at a weld underneath. I figured with all the junk oil less compressors out there someone has to have a good tank with a junk motor. How easily would my motor adapt to another tank? Are they pretty universal?
I just hate to spend $800 on a quality compressor when my motor is perfectly good and I don’t want to waste my time with low quality ones.
I don’t want to waste my time JB welding either as the tank is over 30 years old and probably paper thin by now

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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.

‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.
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Old 06-29-2019, 11:07 PM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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I have the same problem. You're right most of the new compressors are junk. I have been looking for a good used tank and have found nothing so far.

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Old 06-30-2019, 12:13 AM
BTCS BTCS is offline
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Default Compressor Receiver

I wouldn't advise patching a corroded air receiver, a ruptured pressure vessel can hurt you.

Assuming the solid replacement receiver you find has a stamped MAWP (pressure rating) higher than your existing compressor's relief valve setting, it should at most only require making an adapter plate to marry the drive motor/compressor to the receiver's mount and plumbing it up.

Do NOT skip the relief valve.

Draining the receiver after each use (from the bottom) - or installing a trap at the drain connection if you leave it pressed up will minimize your corrosion issue.

Marc

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Old 06-30-2019, 04:23 AM
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dataway dataway is offline
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Typically they are very adaptable .... slotted mounts for motor and compressor. Unfortunately most used units have a tank probably close to as compromised as the one you have.

Personally ... as a welder, I'd consider patching the one you have. The tanks very, very rarely "explode" they just blow out a section and make a lot of noise for five seconds. Not like you are dealing extremely high pressure air. A section of 1/8" sheet welded in properly along the (most likely bottom) area corroded and it would probably be fine for years. 30 gallons is small ... it's going to depressurize in a few seconds if it blows a hole. Unless you had your face next to it, it's going to cause no harm.

I wouldn't think twice about TIG welding on a patch and firing it back up. You are probably using 125 psi max ... that's not going to blow up and hurt anything. I've worked on some systems around 2,500 psi ... yeah, you don't want to take any chances with that kind of pressure.

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Old 06-30-2019, 11:44 AM
salem1912 salem1912 is offline
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X2 on not "repairing tank" I do believe there expiration dates on tanks at least newer one's. I had a 30gallon maybe 15 hours on it and the tank rusted, for what they wanted for a new tank I just got a whole new compressor.

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Old 06-30-2019, 07:23 PM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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Whatever you do, put a EASY drain on it to avoid a relapse.

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Old 07-01-2019, 09:00 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is online now
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You may be able to buy a new compressor and swap motors. Keep your eye out for deals. I bought a 60 gal Kobalt at Lowes last year for $250. It was half off, I couldn't resist. Its still sitting on the crate not hooked up yet.

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Old 07-01-2019, 11:48 AM
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67drake 67drake is offline
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Thanks guys. The search still continues. I drove over an hour to look at a similar one yesterday in working condition, but turned out to be junk. No luck finding a used tank either.
I might have to bite the bullet and buy a new one. No hurry yet though

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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.

‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.
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