[67gtospud]

I’m looking at the Lunati Voodoo 20510713 hydraulic roller cam. https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-r...8-294-302.html

Specs are 243/251 @.050 and .616/.622 lift with the 1.65 roller rockers arms.

I’m currently looking at the Johnson Hylift short travel roller lifters but have heard of a lot of lifter failures with all brands of hydraulic rollers as well as the oil bands not being located in the correct location. I know some people grind a slot in the lifter bores; could someone outline this mod for me? Pictures?

However would I be better off running a solid roller lifter on this hydraulic roller cam? I know I’ve read about people doing it; just wondering if it’d be a better, more reliable, option. If so what brand and do I need to run oil restrictions?



I’m planning on running the S.D. mega bore brace and would like to order the lifters before the lifter bore brace is installed so I can be sure they fit correctly. On this note; is it worth the extra $130 to brace all the bores, or is the mega brace itself plenty? So what’s my best lifter option?

[Bill Eveland]

I have a solid roller, but i run crower solid rollers with hipo oiling would be a great choice if your looking for a good solid.

[tom s]

A Hyd roller cam does not need a bore brace.Get the Comp Hyd roller lifters.Tom

[64speed]

I haven’t heard of any failures but have heard of complaints about noise. I used a full Lunati valvetrain from cam to lifters to timing chain to rockers. My engine was just broken in on the stand on Wednesday but once valve lash was set the engine was idled on the stand for about 30 minutes and I heard nothing out of the ordinary. I can’t remember who it was but another member on here made the comment and I have to agree that if the hydraulic roller lifters noise problem was as prevalent as the internet would have you believe then none of them would be being sold. Do the lifter bore mod and a name brand lifter and I think you’ll be ok

[tom s]

If you use the Comps you don’t need the block mod,the oil band is in the correct location.Tom

[64speed]

Originally Posted by tom s

If you use the Comps you don’t need the block mod,the oil band is in the correct location.Tom

This depends on if you get a batch made by morel or shaver. I can’t remember which is the right one but I believe someone on here said it was a crap shoot as to what set you get. Also Paul’s block mod hurts nothing and provides additional oil to the lifter whether it needs it or not so it can’t be a bad thing

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by tom s

If you use the Comps you don’t need the block mod,the oil band is in the correct location.Tom

Tom,

Just for reference I have two questions for you..... How many engines have you built/had with Comp. HR lifters? How many of those have you had Lifter issues?

Thanks

[Formulas]

I was surfing net last night for specs on that cam one result that popped up was Amazon so curious I looked and they have it for 337$
I however did not try to buy it.. just fyi.

What spring set up are you eyeballing?

.

[67gtospud]

Originally Posted by Formulas

I was surfing net last night for specs on that cam one result that popped up was Amazon so curious I looked and they have it for 337$
I however did not try to buy it.. just fyi.

What spring set up are you eyeballing?

.

I haven't really searched around for prices yet on the cam but that's good to know. As for springs; i will be ordering the heads from Butler Performance and they'll be setting them up for me since out of the box the Edelbrock heads dont have enough valve lift.

[tom s]

I have put them in at least 6 engines,I have 2 cars running them right now,one with the Shavers and one with the old style.Have a RA V going together right now with the Shavers.There is a member on this board with 2 of my RA V engines that have the Shavers.The 366 RA V NASCAR engine that went to WI a years or 2 ago has the Shavers.We always run 150-160 on the seats,always Mobil 1 10-30 and have zero issues with the std 60lb pump.FWIW,Tom

[HWYSTR455]

Do you shim the relief on the 60 pumps Tom?

Butler uses the 80 pumps with HYD rollers and have used the Morels, and both versions of the Comps with minimal to no lifter noise instances. The added psi overcomes the reduced time the oil band is in the range of the galley feed hole.

Many builders shim the 60 pumps to 70 psi, the 80s run 70 psi out of the box. (60 psi pump runs 50 out of the box). Use the 80 pump. No, it will not cause any abstract wear, especially if you ensure the rear lifter galley is drilled for positive oiling.

.

[tom s]

No we dont,stock 60 lb.Tom

[67gtospud]

I suppose I should’ve further specified. When I said lifter failures I meant tick. I don’t want hydraulic lifters that tick, for that I’d prefer to go solid. My rear oil galley plug is drilled for distributor gear oiling. I will be running the Butler prepped 60psi oil pump with the relief spring shimmed.

[HWYSTR455]

You should be fine with that pump, and just make sure everything is super clean.

Obviously, clearances also play a part. Generally, a 'performance' engine, especially when using an aftermarket crank and rods, gets slightly looser clearances, which can impact oil psi. Using a pump with a little more psi can help prevent a 'tick', but lifter bore clearance is usually not checked as closely, and you can still end up with a tick. So check that it comes in at an acceptable tolerance.

Also, with a more performance cam, don't try to make it idle like a stock cam. You have to compensate with a little more idle speed, which in turn, gives you a slight increase in oil psi as well. (further reducing your chance of tick)

.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

You should be fine with that pump, and just make sure everything is super clean.

Obviously, clearances also play a part. Generally, a 'performance' engine, especially when using an aftermarket crank and rods, gets slightly looser clearances, which can impact oil psi. Using a pump with a little more psi can help prevent a 'tick', but lifter bore clearance is usually not checked as closely, and you can still end up with a tick. So check that it comes in at an acceptable tolerance.

Also, with a more performance cam, don't try to make it idle like a stock cam. You have to compensate with a little more idle speed, which in turn, gives you a slight increase in oil psi as well. (further reducing your chance of tick)

.

Wait! Lifter Bores wear? I have often thought that this is where a lot of these tickers come from.

[HWYSTR455]

Sure, it can impact the amount of oil, and psi the lifter bodies receive.

.