[RA1John]

Converting a '64 from auto to 4spd.
QUESTIONS:

Is driveshaft same?

Is trans mount same?

4spd flywheel same 64 - 72 or..?

Have...
4spd, pedals, 64 bell housing, console, shifter tunnel porch, 64 Hurst 4spd shifter rebuilt by Hurst in the 70s (need linkage), Backup lamp switch/bracket.

Is everything else available repro from Ames?

Thanks!

[Tom Vaught]

Driveshaft is the same length.
Trans mount is positioned in the same spot.
(You could actually install a turbo 350 trans and not change anything between the 4 combinations related to driveshaft and crossmember. Turbo 350, stock auto trans and 3 speed and 4 speed trans. Turbo 400 is different.

Trans mount is the same as is cross member to frame mounting (auto trans vs manual trans).

4 speed 10.5" Flywheel/ Clutch/ Pressure plate/ linkage the same on Manual Trans installations.

Tom V.

[RA1John]

Thanks Tom!

I have a few 4-speed flywheels from '68-'70 GTOs. Would these work for '64 389?

Other parts needed:

- 4-speed shifter linkage & brackets (original or repro) - Hurst or factory style.. which is best?
- Z-Bar (repro)
- Pilot bushing (replacement)
- Z-Bar bracket (welded to frame, repro?)
- Pedal Z-Bar Clutch bracket & rods (orig. or repro?)
- Muncie output yoke to driveshaft (orig. or repro?)
- Shifter seal to porch (w/console (repro?)
- Steering Column clamp-bracket to dash- 4spd (orig. or repro?)

Anything else?

Appreciate the input!

[Tom Vaught]

Flywheels, yes.
repo Z-Bar ok
pilot bushing fine, have run one for years.
Z-Bar bracket, typically needs engine removed or left fender removed to get access to weld it from what I have been told. I have never tried to add that part myself.
if you can find a complete clutch under dash system, the parts clean up easily, very heavy metal, and then you have the real deal geometry. Yoke, either or. shifter seal repo, clamp bracket to dash hopefully can find an original.

Tom V.

[64speed]

I have only ever done this one time in a 63 Impala but the hardest part is just getting the zbar bracket on. I guess you could weld it on with the inner fender on with some acrobatics but I think it would be tough. I have welded mine on while my front end is off

[donziboy]

Bracket Installation
I did the automatic to 4 speed conversion on a 65 last year and decided to cut the inner fender in order to gain access for welding the counter shaft bracket to the frame. Before any cutting or welding took place, I installed the ball stud to the block, drilled the hole in the fire wall and installed the entire petal assembly including the clutch rod, rubber boot and metal cover plate. For my project I was fortunate enough to procure OEM parts from a member on this forum and the entire conversion (not including the welding) was completed in a day and half with no issues. The only part I did not have was the bracket so I ordered it from our host. The bracket by design once its placed on the frame will get you very close to where it needs to be welded onto the frame. I took several measurements exercised the clutch petal several times and then tacked it in place. Next, I checked everything again for clearance including measurements and a mockup of the bell housing and where the clutch fork would be located. Once I was sure the bracket was in the correct location I welded it out.
When I get a chance, I will take a picture of the as left condition after I sprayed some undercoating on the area of the weld. Let me be clear I’m a self-taught welder and did not spend a lot of time grinding the area trying to make the weld disappear. I have a good friend who is a retired Boilermaker and had he performed all the welding you would never know that the fender was cut however he was not available at the time so I did the work myself.
Bob

[64speed]

I have to admit I didn’t put that much effort into locating the z bar bracket this time. If you get the repro from Ames like I did and have the front fender off then it will only fit “right” in one place with maybe an 1/8 of an inch play in either direction. I just placed mine where the curve of the frame and the bracket meshed the best and welded it on. So far everything lines up but if I have any problems I guess I will go hydraulic.

[donziboy]

If you think about it when these cars were coming down the assembly line the worker had very little time to locate and weld out the bracket therefore I’m sure you will be fine. One thing that I did not mention was I found several very good pictures of the bracket welded to the frame so I had a good understanding of where I need to cut the inner fender and allow plenty of room to fit up and weld out the bracket. I also understand that this method of installation is not for everyone however my car is a driver and I had no desire to disassemble/reassemble the front end of the car. Once the wheel went back on it very hard to see where the welding took place.

[donziboy]

Pictures of the as-left condition of the inner fender including dimensions for future reference.

[aceaceca]

I like your get er done approach Donziboy. What a nice piece of work. I would have left an access hole to tighten the Z bar bolt up though. A pain in the neck doing it from in the engine bay.

[64speed]

I would have cut the hole if my fenders weren’t off.

[64speed]

I love those hurst wheels. I wish someone would make them in 18 that were not black or gold