[ejgoat]

Guess i need some help, the center carb on this tri power refuses to work, car will not idle, carb has been completely rebuilt done thede carbs since 64 but this bugger is driving me to drink can,t seem to find the answer, sprayed either, but no vaccum leaks, anyone got a clue, have tried everything i know. HELP

[Tom Vaught]

"Refuses to Work" is a pretty broad term.

Can you provide some specific behaviors and maybe we can help you out.

Tom V.

Sometimes it is best to start from the beginning: CHECK THE TIMING and make sure the distributor is not screwed up.

Was taught that a long time ago by a master mechanic (from WW-II). Then remove the front and rear carbs and use plates to seal the intake and tune ONLY the center carb.

[ejgoat]

this is driving me crazy, timing is good, my buddys center carb works just fine, have been thru 3 carbs, got a new rebuild kit from mikes tri power, everything inside is new now, floats set perfect new needlevalve and seat, new gaskets, still no idle, just up off idle its good to go and strong, just doesn,t want to idle, my buddys carb good to go. whats up, any good ideas

[geeteeohguy]

Does it idle with another carb in place? Is it dumping fuel? It sounds to me, by what little info is posted, that it's too lean. Does it 'want to idle' when you drizzle a little carb cleaner down the carb? Does it want to idle when you restrict the intake with your hand a bit? What does "done thede carbs since 64" mean?

[Dick Boneske]

You've answered your own question. If your buddies center carb idles OK on your car and you've rebuilt the one you have without success, the problem is likely within the venturi cluster of the carb you're trying to use.

If you're running a relatively mild cam, the brass idle tubes should be about .033"-.036". The idle bypass orifices (on the outer portion of the cluster assy) should be .046". The idle adj. screws in the carb base should be about 2 turns out and both should affect idle quality when turned in or out. Because these are hard to adjust, some of us have had success using a short piece of rubber tubing as a "tool" to turn the screws.

Give us some more details and we'll figure this out. You've got the problem isolated to the center carb---now we need to troubleshoot that.

[ejgoat]

This goat is special to me , it has a royal 421 thats been balanced in it , it came with a 4 barrel but wanted to put a tri power on it , always loved the sound of trips, back in the day 65/66 ran a goat out of hart automotive in cleveland, it was ed,s little tiger,dark blue with bengal tigers on the doors, had 421 then also, thats why this car means so much to me know. thanks guys for your help, fixed the problem. ed

[Dick Boneske]

Ed,

Can you let us know how you fixed the problem?

[61-63]

x2 on what the problem was.

[RamAirIV28]

If it sat for a while with fuel in it before it was rebuild, some of those very small holes could be clogged up. some of those holes are so small they may not be visible when clogged up.

I had a similar problem, I rebuilt the carb 3 times and could not get it to run at all. I pulled a copy of the service manual out and noticed that there were several circuits in the carb that , it seemed, were not in mine, I looked closer and they were there but they were clogged up and the crud that clogged them up was about the same color as the carb so they were not visible to my old eyes.

long story short, I got a single strand of soft copper wire and gently probed every known orifice in the carb, I was surprised at what came out. It would never had run if I did not do it. It ran fine and still does to this day.

[Sloan66]

x3 on what fixed problem, and how about some pics of your car!

[ejgoat]

i must be getting senile in my old age , can,t seem to get a picture on the site maybe some help would do, then I,ll post some pictures. thanks guys for your replies