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Old 04-12-2014, 08:23 PM
BradM BradM is offline
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Default A question of radiators

Would like to solicit some opinions here. Trying to keep my '65 resto as original as possible, but not doing a concours job by any stretch of the imagination. The original harrison radiator...well, it doesn't leak. Beyond that, I have no idea what shape it's in.

Is it worth the $$ and effort to have it restored, or am I better off getting a repop? I live in Texas, plan on adding Vintage air, and drive in the 100+ summer heat.

Thanks guys!
Brad

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Old 04-12-2014, 08:47 PM
Txbobcat Txbobcat is offline
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I like the idea of the Harrison better than cheap aluminum. And I am in Texas also.

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Old 04-12-2014, 10:47 PM
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rontiac rontiac is offline
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I believe you're better using your tanks and having it re-cored. You can't get those original tanks anymore, and the repops just aren't the same. And you'll probably save money to boot.

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Old 04-12-2014, 10:53 PM
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Brad, if it's stock and it works, give it a try. You can always move up. Skip

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Old 04-13-2014, 02:01 AM
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Koppster Koppster is offline
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I live in San Antonio and I have a Vintage Air unit in my car. My brass/copper 17.5" 4-row Harrison did not cut the mustard, 210+ in traffic. I installed a Griffin 2 row/1.25 in tube aluminum and now have trouble getting over 180. Not a "cheap" aluminum radiator but I am very happy with it.

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Old 04-13-2014, 08:45 AM
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Tom Vaught Tom Vaught is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koppster View Post
I live in San Antonio and I have a Vintage Air unit in my car. My brass/copper 17.5" 4-row Harrison did not cut the mustard, 210+ in traffic. I installed a Griffin 2 row/1.25 in tube aluminum and now have trouble getting over 180. Not a "cheap" aluminum radiator but I am very happy with it.
1) If you use your original tanks then you know the radiator will fit the vehicle mounting structure properly if the replacement core height is correct.

2) The original tanks were made from good brass and a little touch up and they are like new again.

3) You can get new brass cores that have a higher fin count per inch vs the factory count and increase your cooling efficiency.

4) You can use a fan blade with a higher blade count or pitch angle

5) You can use a fan shroud vs an open in the air fan

6) You can use Electric fans on the engine side of the radiator with a proper shroud vs an open fan

Some like the aluminum stuff but you need a certain engine temp to boil off the moisture in the engine oil or the engine wears quickly. There is always some moisture in a cold engine. 180 degrees seems to be the minimum temp to have this happen.

So if you want yo keep it original looking then there are choices that you can make.

If you are just after cooling maybe the aluminum stuff will fit without too much hassle.

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Old 04-13-2014, 05:29 PM
BradM BradM is offline
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If I decide to get the original re-cored, any suggestions for a shop that does this?


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Old 04-14-2014, 09:51 AM
olde-goat olde-goat is offline
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Default A question of radiators

All good advice. I had the same question when it came to the cooling system on 65 non AC convertible restoration. I had a good 4 core Harrison AC rad. I took it into a rad shop to get advice on if it could be modified. I was told that radiator technology has changed over the years. They cut my original tanks off and re-cored the radiator with a new shorter 'dimpled tube' 4 core. It was explained that the dimpled tubes slow down the coolant flow and makes for more efficient cooling. Along with the new rad I installed OEM type hoses, cast iron impeller pump, fan shroud and original bent tip clutched fan. Also ensured that divider plates were correctly adjusted to proper clearance. When the engine initially was broken in, engine ran hot but with more use saw my temperatures steadily decline. Started at 210 degrees + when the engine was tight and as I added more miles seems to have stabilized at 185- 195. I monitor the temperatures with an after market qauge. This is at freeway speed in Phoenix. I am for keeping/reworking original parts where ever possible. Just my 2 cents..

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Old 04-14-2014, 04:47 PM
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Along with the "dimple technology" you can get a higher fin count per inch in the core and improve cooling that way too.

There is a shop in Mt Clemens Michigan that did my recores over the years and they ship all over the country. They do a lot of Circle Track stuff too. "Charlie" is the owner.

Address: 195 Grand Ave, Mt Clemens, MI 48043
Phone (586) 463-8722

Charlie has 1380 positive feedbacks and 1 or 2 negatives from azewipes so he does nice work and is well respected. Tell him you talked to Tom Vaught with the 64 GTO.

Tom Vaught

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