[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I'd have to check but I thought it still had the ability to accept a vacuum modulator?? Or maybe a simple full manual valve body conversion would accomplish it.

2 ways to get to a full manual operation, there is an electronic box that can be purchased from 4L80E builders for around $200. The other modification does include using a vacuum modulator and valve body modifications. Mark, (HIS) built the one with the modulator in his detailed install in his 68 GTO.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=823023

You can buy a kit, or DIY, Mark chose to DIY version.

[dld]

My 1970 T/A had one in it when I got car . I converted it to a tko 600 . but it worked ok .

the pics I show are of it . This installation they did have to notch the one floor support for clearance . Not the best job they did. but you could make it nice .

last pic is where I fixed the floor brace

I sold the complete engine trans and O.D for $2500.00 all worked well

[dld]

pics of O.D . parts

[1971455HO]

I need help please. Cant find a concise answer anywhere. I'm trying to get my drive line angle correct. I have vibration and maybe binding.

Speaking in "Front to Rear Centerline Terms" measured from left side of car: 1. Engine/Trans is sloping down @ 5.0*. 2. Drive-Shaft is sloping up @ 2.2*. 3. Pinion is sloping up (pinion yoke facing down) @ 1.6*

I am thinking the correct engine/trans angle should be 3*. I have room to shim the trans mount up to get it to 3* from 5*. Also asking if I ad 4.5*/4.6* wedges to my rear axle and get the pinion to look up @ 3* and be on the same plain as the engine/trans. I don't know what that will do to the driveshaft angle though. Any help is very much appreciated. Found videos on rear coil spring cars, almost nothing on rear leaf spring cars though. I know that there is wrap up on leaf springs, but have never actually altered or modified any. Thank you.

[Formulajones]

The easiest thing to do on a stock type setup is forget about the driveshaft for a minute and concentrate on the trans and rearend angles.

I typically set them up with the trans pointing down between 2-3 degrees. No need for anymore than that. 5 is a bit excessive.

The rearend has to be set while the car is sitting at ride height and you want that angle the opposite of the transmission. Doesn't have to be the same, just opposite. So if it's pointing up 1 or 2 degrees it's fine. You just want apposing angles from trans and rearend as that is how a U-joint is designed to work.

When you have them both pointing down like you currently have, usually vibrations are the result.

Once you have the trans and rear set, you can check the driveshaft angle for reference. That should fall into an acceptable angle once the trans and rear are where they should be.

[Formulabruce]

Careful you do not Chop your fan shroud when shimming transmission mount!

[kingbuzzo]

I may have stumbled upon a used unit setup for a th350 fb...how much is a good price for a used setup?

Thanks

[VCho455]

I've bought 3 of them over the decades. First one was back in 93 or 94 for $1200. 2nd one five years ago. It was bolted to a T350 for $600. And the last one just before Covid for $75. The last one was an earlier model unit from the mid 70's. I'm pretty sure the last one would need rebuilt before using.

They can be had for cheap just be patient.

[kingbuzzo]

ok thanks...that gives me a good baseline

[kingbuzzo]

Do you know if there is any difference if it is already mated to a th350 vs my th400?

Maybe driveshaft length?

[1971455HO]

That would be a big old "NO". The TH400 has a larger shaft than the TH350. + other differences. The tail-shafts don't interchange.

Talk to gear vendor, they may have the solution. It's all about bolting on their adapter to your transmission anyway.

PS, I started this thread, but I ended up going with a 4L80E from Hughes Performance. Expensive, but a much cleaner, nicer upgrade. (e.g.) 55 mph in overdrive at 1300 rpm now.

Requires BOP to Chevy bell-housing adapter, shift-detent (1-2-3-OD) modification and a new cross-member,

Good Luck with your car.

[Formulajones]

That is correct, different output shaft and bolt patterns.

It use to be that you could contact Gear Vendor and they would sell just the adapter kit just for this situation, so you could move the Gear Vendor from a muncie to a 400 turbo, to a 350 turbo etc....

I don't know if that's still the case with them or not but might be worth a call to see.