[Vckline313]

The choke tube plate on my intake has the 2 holes just open where I assume the tubes came from. Will this create a vaccum leak?

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[burd]

It’s a closed loop

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Steel tube under the plate goes in the exhaust heat cross-over. Not in or connected to the intake runners. No vaccum leak.

Clay

[hobbygto65]

If the tubes are broke or missing you will get exhaust out of them unless the crossover is blocked.

[Tom Vaught]

Agree, with your holley carb in the picture (with the electric choke) there is no reason to mess with the "Heat Stove" type choke set-up common on some other type manifolds.
And yes, the circuit is a "Loop" circuit where fresh air from the air cleaner normally is warmed by the choke heat tube, then routed to the choke housing to heat the choke coil spring and open the choke blade over time.

Tom V.

I agree with hobbygto65, but very easy to insert a simple hose nipple in one side of the heat stove and hook that to manifold vacuum. Then you install a vacuum gage and nipple connected to the other hole of the loop. If the vacuum matches the intake vacuum reading the heat tube "loop" is not leaking and no need to remove it to inspect for a leak.

[77 TRASHCAN]

I Don't see any black soot around holes, you are likely good!!!

[steve25]

2 points I would like to make here from looking at your photos.

1) the motor will hot start a lot better if you Battery ground wire is bolted down to the block nearer the starter on the side of the block somewhere then to where you have it now on the intake manifold.

2) those Carb return springs look to be very heavy! This is good for return purposes, but excess spring load will ware out the Carbs throttle shaft and or throttle plate quite fast!

[Vckline313]

Originally Posted by steve25

2 points I would like to make here from looking at your photos.

1) the motor will hot start a lot better if you Battery ground wire is bolted down to the block nearer the starter on the side of the block somewhere then to where you have it now on the intake manifold.

2) those Carb return springs look to be very heavy! This is good for return purposes, but excess spring load will ware out the Carbs throttle shaft and or throttle plate quite fast!

Thanks I'll look for another ground. The one on the head by the manifold looks like it would get to hot that's why I moved it.

I agree about the springs but I hate soft pedals. I may use one small one one big one and try that.

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[steve25]

If the car is a automatic then one of the bolt holes that would be used for the clutch Z bar mounting is a good one to use, if not then ream out the lug on the end of the cable so that you can pass one of the motor mount to block bolts thru it.

[78w72]

also another point on wires... that cable to the back of the alternator is huge! way to big for the purpose, that wire only charges the battery when running & can be much smaller, looks like the main starter power wire. change it to a smaller 12aug & it will be easier to route.

[Greg Reid]

Don't want to pile on here but looks like you're missing your front alternator strap also.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Alternator is mounted upside down. It doesn't affect the function but you rotate it 180, the connections are on the bottom, hidden from sight and protected from contact with errant tools that cause sparks that cause catastrophes.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Alternator is mounted upside down. It doesn't affect the function but you rotate it 180, the connections are on the bottom, hidden from sight and protected from contact with errant tools that cause sparks that cause catastrophes.

mounted upside down? that is the correct way the factory mounts them. common sense says keep wrenches away from the charging terminal & service manuals tells you to disconnect the negative battery cable when working near electrical components...

& if turned 180, the adjuster tab that mounts to the bracket is in the wrong location, how do you adjust the belt with it flipped 180?

[abefromen]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Alternator is mounted upside down.

Not upside down, the back half of the case is just clocked wrong.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by steve25

If the car is a automatic then one of the bolt holes that would be used for the clutch Z bar mounting is a good one to use, if not then ream out the lug on the end of the cable so that you can pass one of the motor mount to block bolts thru it.

X2 on that suggestion.

Tom V.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by abefromen

Not upside down, the back half of the case is just clocked wrong.

I rest my case. I've never seen an alternator with the pos battery cable connection on top.

It's always at the bottom and covered with a protective cap. One slip with a box end adjusting belt tension and you have the 4th of July otherwise.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I rest my case. I've never seen an alternator with the pos battery cable connection on top.

It's always at the bottom and covered with a protective cap. One slip with a box end adjusting belt tension and you have the 4th of July otherwise.

That being said, I have seen a case where a 64 GTO owner had the rubber booth wear thru and short to an aluminum valve cover and destroy the vehicle's electrical system. I have always relocated "Reclocked" the Bat + terminal away from the valve cover. This is for stock mount alternator position vehicles on A-Body vehicles and F-Body vehicles. older B-Car vehicles have the alternator on the passenger side and the BAT + terminal away from the Valve Covers.

Tom V.

[Cliff R]

While we're picking his set-up apart I'd get rid of the rubber hose, clamps and cheap plastic see-thru fuel filter.

They never published numbers on how many families the factory burned to the ground before they got rid of all that crap over half a century ago and ran solid metal lines on the pressure side of the fuel pump. Even when they did use rubber hose and clamps the metal lines had a "bulge" in them to keep the hose from sliding off if you hit a hard bump or got into an accident. Most folks just cut the metal line from the pump and slide a rubber line over it and tighten down the clamp.

It's 2021 now, and there are PLENTY of ways to do all that a lot better, and a lot safer.......FWIW.....

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I rest my case. I've never seen an alternator with the pos battery cable connection on top.

It's always at the bottom and covered with a protective cap. One slip with a box end adjusting belt tension and you have the 4th of July otherwise.

Eh, an alternator can be clocked in 4 positions. Some need to be clocked a certain way for the wires to hook up. THe 350 that I got out of a 1970 firebird had a back bracket that had to be clocked one way for the rear bracket to line up. Other than that, it only matters for the wiring. I know most Pontiacs are clocked a certain way. I used to remember when selling parts, I think you hold the alternator in your hand with the back facing you. The clockings were at 3, 6, 9, and 12 oclock. Part numbers were made as such.

You can reclock one of these oldie alternators with out having to pin the brushes back in, you have to be very careful. I did it all the time at the parts store I worked at...

[Greg Reid]

I reclocked the one on my '68 due to the radiator hose putting constant pressure on the plastic plug wires. This is an old pic taken before I moved it. You can see the hose lying right on the plug....