[roy381]

My car is a dual gate auto. I need a new master anyway so will go the preferred way on the master cylinder.

Thanks again

[GT182]

Then you don't have to worry about bending lines to clear the Z-bar. That's a good thing.

[dhr1022]

I take it the GTO B kit will accept an 11" rotor, are all the other parts the same as well?

[dhr1022]

I'm about to make the move to manual front disc.
With the Scarebird adapter and his list of parts what do you get for wheel brgs and seals?
I was looking at kits from other places, Jegs, summit, etc and all of their stuff is china junk. Not interested...
I take it Scarebird is the way to go?

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by dhr1022

I'm about to make the move to manual front disc.
With the Scarebird adapter and his list of parts what do you get for wheel brgs and seals?
I was looking at kits from other places, Jegs, summit, etc and all of their stuff is china junk. Not interested...
I take it Scarebird is the way to go?

On what? What is the purpose build of the build/restoration/preservation?
There is a wide SPECTRUM of builds & different components which best work with each.

[dhr1022]

Well its a 65 Tempest I have owned since 76, been in my garage since 86. Torn apart and without any available funds, it has sat.
Two daughters thru college a home, a dog....you get the picture.
I want to make it drive-able, some drag strip time, not a lot. But something I can take out when I want.
It has 4 wheelmanual drums on it now, I would like manual front disc, but not junk!
I recently purchased control arms that had new ball joints, bushing etc when they came they were junk from China.
So with going to the front brake set up I don't want to go thru the same stuff.
Following this post, i see a few people use Scarebird and Pirate Jack.
Has anybody got good advice to share.
BTW; I'm having the frame Sandblasted and powder coated for me it's the economical way..

[GT182]

Originally Posted by dhr1022

I take it the GTO B kit will accept an 11" rotor, are all the other parts the same as well?

I just got back to this today. And to answer your question... Yes 11" rotors will fit, and are preferable over the 10". Make sure the rotors will use A2 and A6 bearings. Everything else is as I have in the list I posted.

[dhr1022]

2 questions;
1 what do you use for a backing plate with the scarebird kits and 2 what 11 inch rortors do you use, they mention something about corvette rotors!
That and hubs?
Thanks

[Scarebird]

sorry, 11" rotors will not fit - the brackets are designed to use 10-1/2" rotors from a 78 Monte Carlo.

[tempest1964]

Scarebird, didn't you used to offer a bracket kit for larger rotors? I seem to remember it on your web-site. If you did, will you ever offer it again? If you did offer it and don't plan on offering it again, was there some kind of issue with it? Thanks

[Scarebird]

The only issue was we did not sell enough of them to really be worthwhile. We may make more in the future but would need significant interest in doing so...

Mark

[dhr1022]

What can be used for a backing plate?

[Scarebird]

if you mean dust shield there is not a provision for it - not needed.

[GT182]

Houston we have a problem!

I'll get photos posted later on today for you to see Scarebird.

BTW, I've never heard of 10 1/2" rotors. Do you have a part number to share?

[GT182]

Ok, here's my problem. I've only driven the car maybe 100 miles or less since the change over. Every so often when I'd turn right or left I'd here this God awful grinding noise under the console. I thought it might be the front universal joint or something wrong with the clutch. Neither. It's the top bolt on the caliper bracket.

The top recessed allen bolt would not go into the caliper bracket all the way. It's as tight as I could get it without ruining the "bolt" or an allen head socket. It's that small. It sticks out from the bracket face enough that it's hitting the disc and put a good groove in it.. In the photo it doesn't look like much but it did hit the caliper. I started to file the head down before I took the photo. If I heat it and take it out I'll grind it down a small bit so it goes in flat to the bracket face. Every spindle bolt is as tight as the torque that's called for it.

Could the caliper brackets be flexing? Any ways I think I've found the fix. Machine washers. 1-3/8 x 2-1/8 x 14 gauge to set behind the sleeve that goes on the spindle. One or two for each spindle. They're only 1/16th thick. It should affect the caliper from bolting on from what I see so far. The washer/bushing sit's on the spindle perfectly. Think Lowes if you feel the need for them. They're made by Hillman and are in the Specialty Washer bins in Parts.

[Slider]

In the Scarebird instructions I read there is a spacer that goes behind the inner wheel bearing. Are you using these spacers? I'm assuming they are to push the rotor out slightly.......could that be the problem?

[GT182]

Yeas I am. The washer would go behind the spacer just to bring the disc out 1/16, or 2 for 1/8 inch. It shouldn't affect the calipers. The clearance between the caliper bracket and the disc is just a tad too tight IMO.

[Scarebird]

That design is a dozen years old, but we have run across issues. We have seen bent spindles, out of spec rotors and wrong bearings used. The upper bolt should have about 0.080-0.100" clearance.

Did your outer castle nut engage properly?

Mark

[GT182]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

Did your outer castle nut engage properly?

Mark

Yes Mark it does for the 78 rotor. The 78 Firebird rotor did not work as the hub section is to long and the castle nut with the washer will not engage.... with the sleeve. I didn't even bother to try without the sleeve. So again I shouldn't have said they'd work.

I apologize as the 78 rotor is 10-1/2". I had the one rotor turned this morning (just got back home from that) and the groove in the rotor is gone. I'm not going to file or grind the top bracket bolt until I test without and with 2 of the bushings/washers behind the sleeve. So far it looks like it will work fine, but probably with 1 or 2 of the bushings/washers behind the sleeve to give the rotor clearance.

But I'd still like to find an 11" rotor just to try it. I'm concerned about the brake pad being over the edge of the rotor if it will cause problems.

[Squidward]

Hey! I had the same thing happen to me. My 67 Firebird Scarebird kit - no probs. My 72 Lemans Scarebird kit: no initial problems, until I encountered a messed up driver side spindle thread with a stripped spot right at the most critical place. Previous owner issues...

I got a used spindle from my friend, and it seemed identical in almost every way. I put it on, and installed spacer/bearings/disc/bracket/caliper. First attempt at using brakes caused a grind. The inner face of the disc had a similar scar. I also determined that the bracket mounting bolt was rubbing the disc. I got out the grinding wheel and cut a solid 1/16"+ off the face of the upper spindle mounting hole, and it fixed my alignment issue.

The passenger side had no issues with bolt/bracket clearance to the disc.

I determined it wasn't the bolt or bracket (not a kit issue), but how the spindle mounting face was cut. Maybe the drum spindles were cut a little sloppy from GM?