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I’m doing manual drum to power disc install on 65 Tempest and had question on new booster install. I know that I have to use lower hole in brake pedal, which I have no clue how I’ll get in there with drill with pedal installed as it’s just a hair undersized for the pin to go thru. Thank god my 16yo son is skinny as a twig as I can’t get my fat ass up under there.

The question I have is how should the clevis be adjusted? I set it the same depth as the single non power master that came off but it doesn’t seem right, like pedal will be too low. The piss poor instructions from Inline Tube says about 1/2” but didn’t know if that meant 1/2” showing, or 1/2” in, which doesn’t seem enough. Should the pedal be all way up with rod just shy of depressing the booster?

[64speed]

I screwed my clevis out to where it was engaging almost immediately when you pressed the pedal. You can only adjust it so far because either the threaded rod will contact the pedal or the pedal will be pushed so far up it bottoms out against the stop which can cause an over travel condition in the master cylinder. In the future don’t ever buy anything from Inline Tube. Their instructions suck their customer service is worse and god forbid you have to return something. I have had two credit card company cases opened against them both resolved in my favor

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64Speed - have to agree 100%....what little instructions they send are piss poor at best. The box of lines was the worst trying to figure out what went where. I finally called them and they emailed me photos of the layout. Why they can’t put on their site is beyond me.

On a side did you install power booster and if so when you moved down to lower hole in pedal arm was hooking up return spring a nightmare? My son is helping me as he is skinny enough to get under dash. He cannot get it to hook back up. I’m thinking that needs changed also.

[64speed]

First off I don’t have a return spring and never needed one. To make a long story short I bought the Inline Tube kit and had some similar issues as well as some others. I called and got told that since I bought it on eBay I had to go thru their internet sales dept. After numerous emails because they wouldn’t give me a phone number I did some research (I am a former cop) and got them to take it back. I then ordered a kit from Motor City Muscle on eBay not knowing it was them selling the same kit under a different company name. Received with bent dust shields and my bolts for my steering knuckles wouldn’t go thru the holes. I did find out on my own that there was a model year revision and the bolts got bigger. Tried drilling out my spindles for the larger bolts and burned up three drill bits using lube and going slow to drill one hole. Got pissed emailed eBay and they gave me a phone number. Lo and behold the number was the same. Called and they refused to talk to me stating it was an internet purchase. I burned up their inbox and they finally said I could ship it all back at my cost which was over a hundred dollars. I told them that was a no go and that now I had a spindle with one size different hole and what were they gonna do about it. Got cussed out. Called American Express and two days later they were begging me to send it back at their expense. AMEX told me that was entirely up to me. I did the right thing and sent it back. A while later I needed a front brake line kit. They were the only ones who could ship right away so I reluctantly ordered. Kit had a bad flare and the passenger side flex hose connection would not seal. Called got told I wasn’t doing something right so I called Amex they told me to box it up provide them tracking info and they would handle it. Got my money back and that was that. A lot of people on here don’t like CPP saying it’s chinese crap. Well it’s all chinese crap and I have had good luck with them. After the Inline Tube fiasco I ordered a kit from them and it just fell on. Quality seemed good and they have a lifetime warranty on everything but pads and hoses if you buy the assembled kit. I bought another front and rear kit from them for my 58 Chevy and all the kits just fell right on. That’s who I would go with in the future.

[chrisp]

If the pushrod from the pedal is not pushing straight through the booster hole it will wear out premature & leak . I have found that most aftermarket booster firewall mounting brackets are off a few degrees making the pushrod not push directly straight . You can shim between the firewall & bracket or drill a hole in pedal to make the pushrod push straight.

[64speed]

Did you get your problem resolved?

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Originally Posted by 64speed

Did you get your problem resolved?

I think so. Once I got the pedal hooked up I adjusted the rod so the pedal height seemed correct. I still need to finish the install on lines and install master and bleed to know for sure

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Ok.......crazy question but what did y’all use for vacuum source at manifold to run to booster? I’ve only got 1 in the manifold at front of carb that tee’s into the PCV system. 326 with factory AFB. Really don’t want to drill and tap manifold on the engine.