[Slider]

Has anyone experienced clutch disc getting stuck to the flywheel and thus not disengaging when pushing in the clutch. I’m getting my 65 Tempest back in the road after sitting in dads garage for 20+ years. Finally got it running but the disc is stuck. Now this used to happen years ago when it sat for 6-9 months (I was the only one who drove it back 25 years ago) and I’d bump the starter over in gear and it would just break free and be fine, no signs of it ever being an issue.

Well that didn’t help this time despite trying it several times. So I know I’m forced to put it back up in the air and try to fix it (yes, I know I should have checked it and I’m kicking myself for not doing it while it was up in the air)

My question is do you think I can remove inspection cover and get in between the disc and flywheel and disc and break it free? If not how much work is involved in removing trans in terms of taking the shifter off trans to remove the trans? I’ve removed lots of automatics ovef the years and even manual truck trans but never a Muncie with hurst shifter.

Thoughts?

[Lemans64]

Did you try starting it with the clutch pedal to floor? Or for that matter try starting in reverse. If you have a full bell housing there isn't much chance of getting it loose from under car. Removal of trans would be the next method. 2 bolts on shifter, remove shift arms from trans, (pull clips) and remove shifter from under car. Might need to have cross member out first depending on car. Driveshaft first of course. speedo cable and then 4 bolts on front of trans, pull trans, then remove bell housing from block. 6 pressure plate bolts and pull it off flywheel for inspection. probably replacement required.

[dataway]

My tractor does that any time it sits more than a week and I forget to put a block in the clutch linkage to hold it down.

I pick the tallest (4th) gear, hold the clutch in and the brake on and try to start it.

[chrisp]

Push the car backwards while in forward gear.

[Tom Vaught]

Unless you have a 64 or older Bellhousing, the 1965 and later bellhousings have a "cast in" cutout in the bottom part of the bellhousing.
That cut-out is covered by a thin metal shield. Drill a hole in the shield large enough to get a long flat blade screwdriver thru the hole.

The car obviously has to be high enough in the air (jack stands) or fabricated heavy wood stands under the tires so you have room to work. AND BE SAFE.

Stick the screwdriver in the hole between the flywheel and the pressure plate in one of the pressure plate cover openings. Now you should be able to tap the screwdriver blade between the flywheel and the clutch disc. Most pressure plates have 3 cover openings.

Break loose the disc in those three locations.

When you can get the disc free, take the car to a shop and have them look over what you did. maybe replace the disc.

I personally don't replace clutch discs unless they are damaged.
A Clutch Disc is made with a resin material and the disc material.
The Clutch disc gets hot and the resin boils to the disc surface.
Over time the resin has a nice film on the surface. Either the disc now slips or in long storage vehicles the disc sticks to the flywheel if the engine is not run for a while.

I lightly glass bead off the resin on the disc surface and the resin cannot stick any longer to the flywheel or pressure plate. And the disc lasts about 10 times longer.

Tom V.

[Formulas]

Start it up on jack stands in the rear push in the clutch and gently blip the throttle some

At that point in time the stuck part of the clutch will be the only connection from the engine to trans and may release from the shock

.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by Formulas

Start it up on jack stands in the rear push in the clutch and gently blip the throttle some

At that point in time the stuck part of the clutch will be the only connection from the engine to trans and may release from the shock

.

^Like!
May I add...Stands on rear axle housing drag the brakes while alternatingly increasing RPM. Clutch pedal depressed.
You will need to start it in gear to avoid major gear crunch. You may be dealing with a linkage problem, pilot bush/bearing issue, or a collapsed pressure plate ...possibly.
HTH

[Formulajones]

Yep used to have that happen a couple times on a 327/4-speed combo that sat for 40 years.

What my father did was gently pry between the disc and flywheel, rotate the engine over, and do this in 3-4 spots with the assistance of a little WD-40. It would eventually pop loose.

Today this combo runs and drives perfectly, still with the same clutch in it, lol. I've made it a point to run it around the neighborhood for exercise once a month. No more issues.

[track73]

I had that happen once when I was showing off for my students in the parking lot. I did a burnout in my stock car with a Quatermaster double disc. I had to quickly shift into neutral and get the kids to help me push it on to the lift. I took off the trans and clutch and disassembled it . It worked fine after that. The kids loved it. But the administration not so much.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Yep used to have that happen a couple times on a 327/4-speed combo that sat for 40 years.

What my father did was gently pry between the disc and flywheel, rotate the engine over, and do this in 3-4 spots with the assistance of a little WD-40. It would eventually pop loose.

Today this combo runs and drives perfectly, still with the same clutch in it, lol. I've made it a point to run it around the neighborhood for exercise once a month. No more issues.

I see that your Dad and I both come from the Old School Method of freeing up the disc from the flywheel. If it works, why do something different.

If you drive the car once a month the resin never gets a chance to bond with the flywheel.

Tom V.

[421mike]

Back when I had a tractor repair shop we would see this all the time. The gently pry method works and you can use a putty knife also. If you are going to store for a long period use a block to keep pressure off the clutch. A wet clutch will stick too.

[Sun Tuned]

Try a flat paint scraper ( we got an old stiff red devil) we've used in a couple occasions.

Screwdriver will work but I prefer the flat paint scraper, you can tap it almost home with a hammer.

[Sun Tuned]

I didn't see 421 mikesdeal, yep a putty knife is bout same deal.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by 421mike

Back when I had a tractor repair shop we would see this all the time. The gently pry method works and you can use a putty knife also. If you are going to store for a long period use a block to keep pressure off the clutch. A wet clutch will stick too.

I was going to suggest some of the more dramatic methods I use to free my tractor clutch ... but they probably wouldn't be suitable for a car

[Slider]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Yep used to have that happen a couple times on a 327/4-speed combo that sat for 40 years.

What my father did was gently pry between the disc and flywheel, rotate the engine over, and do this in 3-4 spots with the assistance of a little WD-40. It would eventually pop loose.

Today this combo runs and drives perfectly, still with the same clutch in it, lol. I've made it a point to run it around the neighborhood for exercise once a month. No more issues.

FormulaJones - Wouldn't the WD40 cause the clutch to slip once it broke free?

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Slider

FormulaJones - Wouldn't the WD40 cause the clutch to slip once it broke free?

I thought that too, but last time it stuck was at least 20 years ago now, and I've driven the car quite a bit since, mildly spirited, and there is absolutely no issues with the clutch at all. I will say he didn't completely soak it. Just some squirts here and there.

I would assume as soon as I let the clutch out a few times while driving, it got warm enough and burned off....??

I haven't been too concerned with it because I haven't finished the car to be road worthy, I just take it for 10 mile jaunts once a month around the neighborhood to keep things working, and all I can say is it acts perfectly fine.

When it is finally road worthy and we actually start driving it more, I'll just have to stay aware of it, change it if necessary, but I honestly don't expect any issue with it.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Sun Tuned

Try a flat paint scraper ( we got an old stiff red devil) we've used in a couple occasions.

Screwdriver will work but I prefer the flat paint scraper, you can tap it almost home with a hammer.

I used a screwdriver because I was running a Lakewood scattershield and had a small hole in the bottom of the shield that would allow the screwdriver to pass thru to the Flywheel/disc.

I really used the hole to slip a feeler gage between the flywheel and the disc/pressure plate.
I adjusted the pedal so that when the clutch pedal was on the floor, a .030" feeler gage would just fall from the disc and the flywheel. This way I never "over-centered the clutch parts and at the same time the pedal was at its lowest travel point.

But as I said, if you can get access to the parts thru the opening in the factory bellhousing the screwdriver or a putty knife will work.

Tom V.

[TedRamAirII]

Get it on the street and drive with the clutch pedal depressed, a few hits with the gas pedal will free it. Put it in reverse, crank it up, turn the engine off to stop. its not complicated. I used to do it with a 61 Jeep Pickup .

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

Get it on the street and drive with the clutch pedal depressed, a few hits with the gas pedal will free it. Put it in reverse, crank it up, turn the engine off to stop. its not complicated. I used to do it with a 61 Jeep Pickup .

I've used this method several times. No need to start sticking putty knives into the clutch. The weight of the car will break it loose if you drive it as posted above.