[Bill Hanlon]

Anyone taking bets? I'm guessing that once dpoltzer gets the wiring harness straightened out he will still have the original problem.

[stellar]

I'll bet you are right.

[Geoff]

Have you checked the N switch to see that [a] it is adjusted properly [b] shows continuity when in neutral.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Geoff

Have you checked the N switch to see that [a] it is adjusted properly [b] shows continuity when in neutral.

Geoff,

Dave said this car was a 4 speed.
No way to "properly" adjust an automatic cars neutral safety switch.
Proper adjustment would be for back-up lights and column lock when you put the transmission in reverse.

It's very possible that he has moved something and has this wrong neutral safety switch not working. I can't encourage or advise trying to make it work. Any fix/adjust here needs done right with the right parts.

For now and for starter testing, he could put a jumper wire in the connector for the clutch safety switch. The car will crank in gear the same as having that wrong neutral safety switch working.

Things to do list is getting longer
Clay

[dpoltzer]

I removed the newly repaired engine harness at the firewall bulkhead and found that the purple wire had in fact pulled out from the hard plastic connector. This explains why nothing happened when I turned the key. The good folks at American Auto Wire have agreed to send me an entire new harness because we have had two issues now with this new harness. If this new harness doesnt fix the original problem, I will replace the starter with a new one and I will report back. Dave

[dpoltzer]

Received the new Engine harness and installed everything yet again. Turned the key and released and yes the starter still continues to spin. Ordered a new starter from Napa that will be here on Monday. I hope to hell the starter does the trick. Stand by..........

[stellar]

There isn't much left to try. I'm pretty sure the new starter will be the cure. At least I sure hope so. If you turn in the starter core we will never know what the problem in the starter was. I sure would like to see the bad one if that turns out to be the problem

[dpoltzer]

Replaced the starter with a new one and problem is solved! Tested it 4-5 times and no more issues. I did save the old/bad starter but dont know what to look for if I opened it up. I learned a lot with this issue and can't thank everyone enough for all of your input, diagrams and suggestions! This forum is great!!

[stellar]

Great news. It seems your rebuilder didn't know what to look for either so don't feel bad about not knowing what to look for. Send it over and I'll do an autopsy pro bono with pics. I'll do a Lazarus on it too so you have a good spare.

[dpoltzer]

I will take that offer up with you Stellar! Many thanks. Dave

[stellar]

Looking forward to seeing it. I will post results on this thread.

[Bill Hanlon]

My GUESS on why the old starter tested good is that the test rig removed all power to the starter when the test button was released, not just power from the S terminal of the solenoid.

Just a guess.

[johnta1]

I will take that offer up with you Stellar!

A cheaper shipping option is using the USPS one price for a box thingy (crs again )
They have a box size that a starter fits great and was like $13 (a year or so ago). The postal guy said with that weight a normal charge would have been like $38 or so.
(I think UPS was way more)



Waiting for the results also.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

While you can't visually see why the starter hangs up... You can easily check for what's causing it to hang up.

Put the solenoid in place with no return spring and no attachment screws. With starter standing up nose down, slide the drive gear all the way out. On this starter, the plunger will try to raise the solenoid up away from the starter nose. That "not suppose to be there movement" is what's closing the switch in the solenoid cap, when the starter is on the engine and energized.

Starter will have to be opened up to actually see why the shift fork is causing this to happen. On reman starters, I've seen bent arms on shift forks and over sized engagement nubs on shift forks, where they got welded up and reshaped. Both of those make starters do what this one is doing. Bench test fine but hang up when loaded turning an engine.

IMO
Clay

[stellar]

Starter just arrived. USPS literally dropped it on my front porch (concrete) with a thud. Box is mangled and has a hole ripped in it. Hopefully nothing is broke. I will open it tonight or tomorrow. I saw the hole when he was bringing up the yard. These guys can be brutal.

[stellar]

I have to open it now. I need to see if they broke anything. Other than a bent hanger bolt it looks OK. Field leads are not connected to the solenoid, but I guess you did that before it was sent.

[Geoff]

USPS dropped it? Sounds like the same dopes work for your PS as ours!!

[dpoltzer]

I guess nobody really cares anymore about customer service!!

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by dpoltzer

I guess nobody really cares anymore about customer service!!

... except the customer.

[stellar]

The starter is ready to be shipped back and tested on the car. First, my apologies to your rebuilder. Sort of. At first glance it looked pretty good. Tested with solenoid post and ground connected to battery. S post fed power and starter worked and when power to S post is removed with starter still connected to battery, it retracted the drive and disengaged as it is supposed to. Disassembly showed a few problems. End cap comes off. Bushing full of thick sticky grease and painted on outer edge of under side. Cleaned out grease and cleaned edge for better ground. Not a good idea to paint a ground connection. This is not the staying engaged problem.