[Bill Hanlon]

John:
Could you post the rest of the figures around 11-96 and 11-99 that have to do with wiper motor operation? Also any significant text that has to do with voltage levels in the circuit. My idea will NOT work with this motor.

[Goatracer1]

The wiper fuse has voltage when the key in the ACC and IGN positions with wipers off. I tried to check colors of wires but all 3 look green or green with a black tracer because they are covered in black paint. I tried scraping off paint with little success.

[johnta1]

Here are the pics:


(pic left side cropped some)







This is the cropped at top to show the schematics at bottom







This has some image on left missing







next 2 are the rest of the running schematics












With the parking mechanism, I think it would have to be at the inside switch. If the internals could be exposed possibly could rig a wire to run to the relay?

[Bill Hanlon]

Thanks John.

Plan A (above) is a no go.

Plan B (shown below) depends on a non-existent reed relay.

The power wire (yellow on my diagram) going from the wiper fuse to the wiper motor is cut open and the reed relay coil is inserted into the yellow wire. The high current through the reed relay coil (just a few turns of #14 wire) when the wipers are on will generate a magnetic field which will pull in the contact of the reed switch. That will cause the cube relay to pull in, switching 12V to the dimmer switch and turning on the headlights.

The hard part is no one seems to make a reed relay with a coil capable of passing the high amount of current the wiper motor needs to run. I just ordered three 2" long reed switches. I'll wind my own coil around one of them. and do some testing using the 2 speed electric wipers in my old truck.

Comments about this working or not would be appreciated.

[Bill Hanlon]

My '64 Pontiac wiring diagram shows a single fuse protecting both the wipers and the backup lights. What is the fuse rating? What kind of bulbs are used for the backup lights? How many bulbs?

[johnta1]

20 amp AGC fuse
2 - 1156 bulbs in backup

SM says 4.5 mp draw on dry glass, 12 amp on stall (blades can't move, like ice?)

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by johnta1

SM says 4.5 mp draw on dry glass,

I'd guess there's 3 to 4 amps difference between low and high

IDK
Clay

[johnta1]

No load - Low speed - 3.6 amp

[Bill Hanlon]

Thanks John. I'll wind the coil around the reed switch to pull in at 2 amps or more. Switches are supposed to be delivered next weekend. Then a few days to putz with it.

[pfilean]

No one observes that law anyway. At least not here in the South.

Never been ticketed for not using the lights except in Georgia.

[Bill Hanlon]

Update on my plan B.

The magnet wire (#16 varnish covered) arrived today. I built a spool to wrap the wire on tonight in the garage. The reed switch has an estimated delivery between 10/8 and 10/10.

I'll post pictures as I make progress.

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by pfilean

Never been ticketed for not using the lights except in Georgia.

Because you had an out of state license plate? That's how they make easy money and all you have to do is mail it in.

[Bill Hanlon]

Progress on the circuit. The reed switch arrived today, 3 days early.

Left picture shows the reed switch and the "spool" I built. The spool is made of 2" of a quarter inch soda straw with a plastic cap with a 1/4" hole drilled in the center glued to each end.

Right picture shows the assembled reed relay. The reed is in the straw and 25 turns of 16 gauge magnet wire is wrapped as a coil around the straw. The coil will be spliced into the power wire going to the wiper motor so that all current in the wiper motor will pass through the coil.

I tested the circuit, simulating the wiper motor with two different automotive lamps. A 32 candlepower lamp (1156) is rated at 2 amps. This is a little lower than the 3.6 "no load low speed" that the Service Manual says is the minimum current the wiper motor will draw. The reed pulled in every time at the measured 1.85 amps and I expect it to pull in at the 3.5+ amps the wiper motor will draw at any speed. I replaced the lamp with a lower 15 candlepower lamp. Turned the circuit back on and found that current flow was 1.04 amps and the reed was not pulled in. So, at this lower draw (which will never happen from the wiper motor) the reed will not pull in.

The net is that the circuit will activate somewhere between 1.04 and 1.85 amps.

It will probably take a few days to add the Bosch relay and "pretty up" what is now just laying on my workbench.

[Bill Hanlon]

Need mailing instructions GoatRacer1.

You'll need to:

1. cut the power wire to the windshield wiper motor. In my 64 Pontiac wiring diagram this wire is yellow. Below I will refer to the end of this wire that goes to the wiper motor as "wiper wire" and the end that goes to the wiper fuse as "wiper power".

2. connect the yellow wire from the new device to the "wiper wire".

3. connect the red wire from the new device to "wiper power".

4. connect the black wire from the new device to ground.

5. connect the blue wire from the new device to +12volts always on.

6. connect the green wire from the new device to the dimmer switch. If it were me, I'd connect it to the low beam wire (tan on my wiring diagram) so that it wouldn't turn on the high beams.

I used 2" PVC for the housing. Wouldn't fit in 1" and I didn't have any 1.5" around. I haven't glued the PVC pieces together. Once you get it installed and working, I'd glue it and shoot it with paint.

[Goatracer1]

When I started this little project I never thought it would involve all this. I want to thank everyone for their interest. And WORK. I love puttering with my cars and making little (or big) improvements. Thanks again.
I sent a PM.