[RocktimusPryme]

Went to the local 1/8 mile for TNT on Friday.

This is after swapping out my mechanical setup for an LS swap fuel tank I got lucky and found locally. Swapped my Robb MC regulator to return style and ran a -8 return line. Should be noted that I had issues with the mechanical system. The car would fall on its face around 2-300 feet, killing ETs. That was remedied by the Tanks Inc fuel injection tank with baffling, as well as an electric pump that is way overkill for a carb. I think it supports like 550 HP injected. So neck that down to 7psi and its plenty for me. So the fuel system upgrade was a big win, though I think I might have a leak at full tank. The pump might need a new seal.

Ran my fastest time and MPHs but I was really looking for 7.90s. Didn’t quite get there. I ran a bunch of 8.1s.

My best time I actually forgot to take a picture of the slip. It was an 8.12 @ 87 with a 1.8 60’

The two pictured were my fastest MPH runs. I feel like I’m making the power to be in the 7s based on the MPH. The 3.08s aren’t helping but even with those I think I can get there.

It was HOT. Certainly not helping. I also had I think 19 psi in the ET Streets. I could take a few more pounds out to try and help.

I had a couple of sub 2 60s but didn’t coincide with my best runs otherwise. I had one run where the Trans didn’t shift when I went 1-2. That concerns me slightly.

The slower slip was actually a little grudge race I set up with a 75 year old woman lol. It was more fun than going down the track solo. I spun on the 60 but had a little more car than she did and beat her by a little up top. She had a G body with a 406.

Hopefully the slips post right side up. The forums always want to put them sideways.

If it’s not obvious I’m car 138. (For the fellow Misfits fans out there)

[shaker455]

You had fun that's all that matters.....even if you got beat by a 75 year old with a grocery getter!
Rock on RocktimusPryme!

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by shaker455

You had fun that's all that matters.....even if you got beat by a 75 year old with a grocery getter!: guitar:
Rock on!

Hey hey hey now, I won that race lol.

It is fun, I would rather it have been bracket racing. Win or lose I like competition more.

[shaker455]

Haha! Ya sure...lol.
Glad you got to take it out!

[Formulajones]

Glad to see you got the conversion done and making progress

It's just hard to beat the pump in the tank with big feed and return lines and your testing shows that. Best way to go in my opinion.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Glad to see you got the conversion done and making progress

It's just hard to beat the pump in the tank with big feed and return lines and your testing shows that. Best way to go in my opinion.

Yeah, I understand the allure of staying mechanical. If your fuel system is in good shape otherwise, sure try to upgrade your pump. But if a car is like most of these when restorations start, with a tank or lines that need to be replaced anyway. There is just no good reason to not go in tank.


Though to be fair, my issues really only showed up on the track. That and slow starting after it sat for a week. Even with the electric I still get more drainback than I feel like I should. If it sits for a few days, I can hear the pump fill the lines when I turn the key on.

The swap overall went well for me. Converting the Robb regulator was a breeze, only had to run one line. I do need to bend my big 1/2 stainless feed line in one place. Currently because of its location I get a kink in the soft line on the way to the regulator. I got to eliminate about 8 feet of hose in the front of the car because the mechanical pump is on the opposite side of the fuel lines in a first gen Bird. Relay in the engine bay with only one big wire running back to the pump. If it wasn't so damned hot out it would have been even easier.

One place I got lazy was the power wire for the pump, I ran it under the car. In the future Ill probably run that inside. I did at least cover it in snakeskin for mechanical protection. I also may have to drop the tank and replace the seal. Im going to put it on a hill and let all the gas run to the front and see whats up.

[Formulajones]

If you were on a 1/4 mile track I feel your gains likely would have multiplied as you went down track.

Thanks for updating.

I'm kind of leaning towards getting away from the pure stock theme on my bird and updating the fuel system. I think I've gone as fast as I can go with the stock fuel system. I'll likely do a Tanks Inc setup and 1/2" lines, that'll give it room to grow in the future, plus I'm curious how it may help the car at the track. May try to get that done before the November race.

[scott70]

At 87 mph...you've definitely got enough power to run 7's.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

If you were on a 1/4 mile track I feel your gains likely would have multiplied as you went down track.

Thanks for updating.

I'm kind of leaning towards getting away from the pure stock theme on my bird and updating the fuel system. I think I've gone as fast as I can go with the stock fuel system. I'll likely do a Tanks Inc setup and 1/2" lines, that'll give it room to grow in the future, plus I'm curious how it may help the car at the track. May try to get that done before the November race.

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

From my experience....yes. When running those numerically low gears, you spend so much more time in each gear to reach peak rpm shift points, it's a real strain on the fuel system. If the fuel system is marginal, it'll show up in a car with 3.08's before it'll show up in a car with 4.10's.

I do like the TSP converters. I put one in the Firebird I restored for John, and it was a very nice converter.
Swapped dad's over to TSP, since the Continental really wasn't cutting it. Had to do a restall on the TSP but this second time around it's really nice on the street, much better than before. Haven't gotten to the track with this new version but will soon.

[johnta1]

What is the stall rpm of the converter?

Also, are you still in 2 gear at finish line?

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by johnta1

What is the stall rpm of the converter?

Also, are you still in 2 gear at finish line?

I cant remember for 100% sure what Cliff told me he specced it too. It was either 3400 or 3600. I remember blinking a few times when he told me I could have one stall that high and still be good on the street, but Im a believer now.

I am still in 2nd when I cross the line in the eighth, but I think its fairly close. Like if it was a quarter I think I would be shifting right after the 1/8 mark. That's shifting conservatively though as I mentioned. If I were to ring it all the way to 6000 I would shift well after. I feel like I cross the 1/8th finish line between 5000 and 5200. Ill be sure to check that number the next time I run.

Once I realized that I could just run out the track after my first few runs, I pay less attention to the tach after the 1-2 shift.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

Can you post a dyno sheet or if you have posted one a link to that thread?

Stan

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Can you post a dyno sheet or if you have posted one a link to that thread?

Stan

There is a thread from me circa like 2016 or 17 with dyno numbers. Its kinda clunky to find on the search function, but I think I have it saved to favorites on my personal computer. Im leaving work now, Ill look it up from home in a couple hours if someone doesn't beat me to it.


The numbers were a best of 579HP and something like 590 FtLbs with a 2" spacer and a 1050 dominator house carb.


With no spacer and custom 850 Qjet, full exhaust, accessories and all I figure Im probably more like 540-550 HP.

[johnta1]

I drove my 73 TA on the street for many years with a 3200 RPM stall converter. It was the best thing that helped my TA, until I started running 7" wide slicks at the track. That knocked a bunch off the ET's.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

There is a thread from me circa like 2016 or 17 with dyno numbers. Its kinda clunky to find on the search function, but I think I have it saved to favorites on my personal computer. Im leaving work now, Ill look it up from home in a couple hours if someone doesn't beat me to it.


The numbers were a best of 579HP and something like 590 FtLbs with a 2" spacer and a 1050 dominator house carb.


With no spacer and custom 850 Qjet, full exhaust, accessories and all I figure Im probably more like 540-550 HP.

What does your exhaust system consist of? Does your car spin off the line or hook?

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Can you post a dyno sheet or if you have posted one a link to that thread?

Stan

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...highlight=Dyno

Dyno sheet thread. Cam info is a few posts down.


As for the exhaust, its Dougs longtubes for a roundport, down to 3" tubes all the way back with an X pipe. Magnaflow mufflers. This probably is a place im giving up a little power as its a common exhaust shop system. Its got a couple crush bends. I would like to redo the portion before the X's to have mandrel bends and maybe the gradual neck down header reducers. Once you get towards the back it probably doesnt matter much.


Traction is a little bit of both I guess. Hooking and spinning. Some of that is driver error im sure. Im new to the world of sticky tires. I made 5 runs on Friday, two 1.8s and three 2.0 60's. Some where i clearly heard or felt the tires come loose. Again, it was quite hot, and Im not 100% sure what PSI I should have the tires or how long to spend in the burnout box. So I dont know how good of info I can give there.

I would like to see 1.7 60's but the conditions werent optimal at all. Plus I have the 3.08s with a standard first gear th400. Its never going to pull the wheels off the ground.

I probably could launch a little harder? One of the last places on the car I havent strengthened is the yoke on the 8.5. Its still a 1310, though it does have a nice Spicer solid joint. When Im foot braking the converter I have visions to annihilating that U joint.

[flamedabone]

Keep working on your 60', bump up your shift points a bit and you will have your 7.90s. Then, you need more gear...then you need more cam....then you need some spray.....

Nice work, neat car.

-Abone.

[ponjohn]

What time had it run before?

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

What time had it run before?

Nothing comparable really. Last year it ran an 8.7 @87.5 on common like Cooper Cobra tires.

The one time I took it to the 1/4 track in Indy it fell on its face due to fuel. Upgraded the pump and got it to go down the 1/8 on street tires.

First time out this year with the sticky tires/subframe connectors and the fuel issues resurfaced. I cut a couple 1.8 60s on a better track and cooler day but it would sputter at 300 feet.

I ran a best of I think 8.3 but way down on mph due to the half track stall. 82 MPh IIRC

So the new numbers posted about are with sticky tires and the FI style fuel system.

It’s improving. I still don’t have any kinda of traction device other than a couple clamps on the leaf springs.

I’m building an actual drag car so I’m not trying to make this thing a race car. But I would REALLY like to be able to call it a legit 11 second car. Which I think is feasible.