#21  
Old 07-06-2020, 08:40 PM
ta man ta man is offline
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After seeing your dyno numbers, it may surprise you how fast your car will go eventually. Here are 2 slips note the years,60fts,1/8th mile et and mph and 1/4 mile et and mph. Both slips are from the same engine configuration 290 SD KRE heads, OF cam, 1.65 rockers, torker 2, 950 HP Holley, 1 3/4 inch Hooker headers 3 inch front x pipe..
Slip on left 3.08 geared 3710 lbs car..slip on right 3.42 gears 3900 lbs.

Shows how much is left in your engine.
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Last edited by ta man; 07-06-2020 at 08:50 PM.
  #22  
Old 07-06-2020, 09:31 PM
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After seeing your dyno numbers, it may surprise you how fast your car will go eventually. Here are 2 slips note the years,60fts,1/8th mile et and mph and 1/4 mile et and mph. Both slips are from the same engine configuration 290 SD KRE heads, OF cam, 1.65 rockers, torker 2, 950 HP Holley, 1 3/4 inch Hooker headers 3 inch front x pipe..
Slip on left 3.08 geared 3710 lbs car..slip on right 3.42 gears 3900 lbs.

Shows how much is left in your engine.
Yeah, You have more cam than me especially with the 1.65 rockers. I think I have a weight advantage though. I dont know exactly what my car weighs but I would think its under 3700

I would be very happy with an 11.9. No need to be greedy lol

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 07-06-2020 at 10:25 PM.
  #23  
Old 07-06-2020, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
Yeah, You have more cam than me especially with the 1.65 rockers. I think I have a weight advantage though. I dont know exactly what my car weighs but I would think its under 3700

I would be very happy with an 11.9. No need to be greedy lol
LOL that'll be next. Once you scale it the bug will start and you'll be looking for ways to remove some weight

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Old 07-06-2020, 11:06 PM
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LOL that'll be next. Once you scale it the bug will start and you'll be looking for ways to remove some weight
That would be hard considering I still need to install several interior pieces. I have them. I just never got around to it. And every now and then I think real hard about adding AC.

I’m reaallly bad about getting things running well and then never finishing extraneous details. I always have too many projects to do everything I really should to any one of them.

I need to paint and sell my 43 MB So I have one less thing to mess with.

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  #25  
Old 07-07-2020, 01:19 AM
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Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.
You need to get a rev limiter. Based on your dyno sheet the min RPM I would shift at is 6200. Leaving a lot of et on the table.

Stan

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  #26  
Old 07-07-2020, 06:26 AM
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Running quick at the track is ALL about you well the car hooks and how hard it leaves. Efforts put into suspension and tires will get the car where you want to be more than work in other areas.

Way back when I first started getting serious about getting the Ventura into the 11's I spent a lot of time with the suspension system. I started by installing sub frame connectors (boxed and welded in place), then moved on to springs, spring clamps, adjustable pinion snubber, welding the tubes into the carrier, and drag shocks.

I'm NOT a fan of traction bars for leaf spring cars, I don't like the look of them hanging under the car and can't stand the "clunking" you get with them for street driving. Plus I'm more into the "stock" lock and ride height, plus using stock rims tucked up nicely under the car. When folks start gendering at your car after you make a hard run without any visible traction devices and stock ride height it just puts a perplexed look on their faces. The looks get even more perplexed when they take a gander under the hood and see the Q-jet sitting on a stock intake.

Anyhow, even with 3.08 gears you should be able to run quick in 60' times, so put some efforts there. I would think you could bust into the 1.6 second range with some effort as there is certainly enough power and converter there to do it. That'll knock a bunch of ET off the time slips.

I still remember my very first outings with the old 455 making apprx 1hp/CID. I was all over the 1.9-2.0 range with 60' times and barely dipping into the 12's in the 1/4 mile. I ended up getting the car solidly into the 1.67-1.69 range without doing anything to the engine. It took some work but I ended up running 12.0's at 112mph when the smoke cleared and the dust settled from those efforts. I would have busted right on into the 11's with that combo but KRE developed their new aluminum heads and I was asked to test them so went that direction and never looked back........Cliff

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  #27  
Old 07-07-2020, 10:43 AM
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You need to get a rev limiter. Based on your dyno sheet the min RPM I would shift at is 6200. Leaving a lot of et on the table.

Stan
Yeah, I knew I was leaving some on the table. I think I would need to switch oil pans before I felt comfortable shifting at 6200. I have the a stock looking (I think Canton) pan that has more modern baffles. But nothing else, no kickout, no scraper or windage tray.

Looking back, knowing a little more now than I did then, that's one big regret I have. Skimping on oiling. So maybe that's a winter project. Pull it out for a day and put a better pan on.

The only reason I haven't added an MSD box is Im using a now defunct Accel Billet distributor. Which works great, but the directions for adding a CD box didn't make sense. The directions with the accel unit seemed to denote some wire colors that didn't match. Im sure I can figure it out, need to just bite the bullet and buy one.


Cliff I know I can add some effort in the suspension. Which it should be noted hasn't been completely ignored. I don't have a ton of clapped out 50 year old components. The springs all the way around are new, if stock replacement type units. I did ditch the mono leafs for multi in the rear. The front springs are the ones Moog labled as the HD springs that came in RA II cars.


The wheels are now lightweight Race Star Darkstars. MT Et Street SSs in the back. 275/50s to keep the height down with the highway gear. The front shocks are nice Bilsteins. The rears are cheapy KYBs. That is one place Ill probably put in adjustable drag shocks in the back.

I have bolt in subframe connectors, but I think Im going to weld them in the front. Added a couple clamps on the rear leafs. I did put some tack welds on the axle tubes too. Not the prettiest but they are there. Ive had more practice and am a little better with the mig gun now.

My frist priorities are probably in the safety dept. I need to get a CD box for the rev limit function, and I need to upgrade that rear U joint to a 1350.

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  #28  
Old 07-07-2020, 06:45 PM
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You are making more power and certainly lighter than I am. See sig....

As others mention, get those 60’s DOWN!

The DA doesn’t look like it was helping you....

Keep at it, the et’s should fall quickly

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  #29  
Old 07-10-2020, 11:31 AM
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My frist priorities are probably in the safety dept. I need to get a CD box for the rev limit function, and I need to upgrade that rear U joint to a 1350.
Have a driveshaft loop? I'd do this first. If you are running slicks it pretty much a must have. I've shaved almost a full second off my ET's by working on suspension and learning how to drive. I used to think it was all about the engine but if you are already making good power tuning isnt going to yield significant gains.

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  #30  
Old 07-10-2020, 12:29 PM
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Have a driveshaft loop? I'd do this first. If you are running slicks it pretty much a must have. I've shaved almost a full second off my ET's by working on suspension and learning how to drive. I used to think it was all about the engine but if you are already making good power tuning isnt going to yield significant gains.
Yeah, the car is fairly well setup. I bought it as such a shell that most of the parts have been replaced by me. I put a 3 point seatbelt in for the driver. It would be pretty close to passing a thorough NHRA tech. The battery hold down isn't per say correct, but its not going anywhere. I need to put in a bracket for my little fire extinguisher.

Its got a safety loop, subframe connectors, all the fuel or transmission soft lines are NHRA approved stuff. It is still C clips, but it has rear discs so that's kinda poor mans safety device in back.

When I said "upgrades in the safety dept" I mostly meant things to keep the car safe. Like a rev limiter.

Its got a really nice converter in it, but the th400 itself was bought used off here. Supposed to be built, but you know how that goes. So I don't fully trust the trans itself.

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  #31  
Old 07-10-2020, 03:15 PM
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Yeah, the car is fairly well setup. I bought it as such a shell that most of the parts have been replaced by me. I put a 3 point seatbelt in for the driver. It would be pretty close to passing a thorough NHRA tech. The battery hold down isn't per say correct, but its not going anywhere. I need to put in a bracket for my little fire extinguisher.

Its got a safety loop, subframe connectors, all the fuel or transmission soft lines are NHRA approved stuff. It is still C clips, but it has rear discs so that's kinda poor mans safety device in back.

When I said "upgrades in the safety dept" I mostly meant things to keep the car safe. Like a rev limiter.

Its got a really nice converter in it, but the th400 itself was bought used off here. Supposed to be built, but you know how that goes. So I don't fully trust the trans itself.
I just took my rev limiter out. It was more of a problem than anything and it rarely, if ever did anything for me.

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  #32  
Old 07-10-2020, 03:43 PM
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I just took my rev limiter out. It was more of a problem than anything and it rarely, if ever did anything for me.
For me, its mostly the piece of mind that if I break a U joint, It doesn't cost me the motor when it unloads.

Im fine if I never hit the limiter, but just to know that a $30 joint failure wont cost me a $10,000 motor.

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  #33  
Old 07-10-2020, 04:03 PM
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Limiter is always a good idea. Cheap insurance on an expensive engine.

Can't tell you how many times I've hit the limiter over the years, and the last couple years dad can't seem to stay off of it.

Also can't tell you how many times I wish I had a limiter on some of the cars, LOL

Here's an example of why a limiter is a good idea. This could have been a $20,000+ engine down the tube without a limiter.

https://youtu.be/eAEtmyINan4

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Last edited by Formulajones; 07-10-2020 at 04:09 PM.
  #34  
Old 07-10-2020, 04:32 PM
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Limiter is always a good idea. Cheap insurance on an expensive engine.

Can't tell you how many times I've hit the limiter over the years, and the last couple years dad can't seem to stay off of it.

Also can't tell you how many times I wish I had a limiter on some of the cars, LOL

Here's an example of why a limiter is a good idea. This could have been a $20,000+ engine down the tube without a limiter.

https://youtu.be/eAEtmyINan4
On my previous stock rod shortblock my rev limiter saved the engine many times. 6000 rpm happens pretty quick in first gear ..

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  #35  
Old 07-11-2020, 10:06 AM
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On my previous stock rod shortblock my rev limiter saved the engine many times. 6000 rpm happens pretty quick in first gear ..
I hear ya. Dad is struggling in first gear, the engine rpms so quickly he can't catch it, so he's been short shifting 1st gear, and then he's been all over the rev limiter in 2nd too. Set the darn thing to 6300 and the shift light to 5500 hoping it gives him time to make shifts around 58-5900. It's not working yet LOL I'm ready to shove a 4L80E in the darn thing so I can program shifts electronically and just let him stab and steer the car.

On that pass I linked he was having converter issues and it was just blowing through the converter giving him the sensation the trans wasn't shifting (shift light never goes out). RPM's weren't changing. He was on a good pass there, with a 1.48 60 foot still not coming out 100%, but after this pass something in the converter wasn't right and it started clunking.
Had to send it back for a restall anyway, and they ended up building a new converter from scratch. New one seems much better but still waiting for a track day.
It's things like this that you don't expect, and the rev limiter saved the day.

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Last edited by Formulajones; 07-11-2020 at 10:16 AM.
  #36  
Old 07-11-2020, 01:12 PM
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I hear ya. Dad is struggling in first gear, the engine rpms so quickly he can't catch it, so he's been short shifting 1st gear, and then he's been all over the rev limiter in 2nd too. Set the darn thing to 6300 and the shift light to 5500 hoping it gives him time to make shifts around 58-5900. It's not working yet LOL I'm ready to shove a 4L80E in the darn thing so I can program shifts electronically and just let him stab and steer the car.

On that pass I linked he was having converter issues and it was just blowing through the converter giving him the sensation the trans wasn't shifting (shift light never goes out). RPM's weren't changing. He was on a good pass there, with a 1.48 60 foot still not coming out 100%, but after this pass something in the converter wasn't right and it started clunking.
Had to send it back for a restall anyway, and they ended up building a new converter from scratch. New one seems much better but still waiting for a track day.
It's things like this that you don't expect, and the rev limiter saved the day.
Without a rev limiter I would have grenaded the first shortblock I had under the SD package first hit on the street.

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  #37  
Old 07-11-2020, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
Limiter is always a good idea. Cheap insurance on an expensive engine.

Can't tell you how many times I've hit the limiter over the years, and the last couple years dad can't seem to stay off of it.

Also can't tell you how many times I wish I had a limiter on some of the cars, LOL

Here's an example of why a limiter is a good idea. This could have been a $20,000+ engine down the tube without a limiter.

https://youtu.be/eAEtmyINan4

That or breaking a rear, that will buzz the whole drive train.

  #38  
Old 07-11-2020, 07:01 PM
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That or breaking a rear, that will buzz the whole drive train.
Ouch!

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Old 07-11-2020, 09:39 PM
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Which is my concern. I think I’m going to go with the stand alone pertronix rev limiter rather than a CD box. Seems easier to unhook if the box goes bad. So many people talk about getting stranded if the MSD box dies on your.

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  #40  
Old 07-11-2020, 11:09 PM
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Which is my concern. I think I’m going to go with the stand alone pertronix rev limiter rather than a CD box. Seems easier to unhook if the box goes bad. So many people talk about getting stranded if the MSD box dies on your.
Trigger it with the points distributor and it's not a worry. I'm doing that on 2 other cars here. If the MSD box ever dies, I can pop the hood, swap a couple wires around and drive away on the points. It's really become my favorite setup as of late.

The stand alone rev limiters like the Pertronix, or Crane, are pretty rough. It'll do what you're looking for as far as saving the engine, but boy when you hit the rev limiter on those things it feels like the engine is come apart, lol. It's nothing like the soft touch rev control of a CD box that moves random cylinders around. Plus those little control units have left me stranded more than once so I tend to not trust them.

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