[bignate]

Ok, this may be kind of a long post...

Looking for some advice/opinions from the engine builders that frequent this place.

I’ve assembled a few engines myself for my own cars and a few for some friends over the last few years. I haven’t had any problems with any but this is something I’d like to get more serious about. I’d like to be able to accurately check clearances etc. myself to have more control over the process.

So what I’m wondering is what measurement tools should be considered necessary and what would be a good idea to have? Also what brands of these tools does everyone like?

I know for sure I’ll need a good set of micrometers. I’d like to get a dial bore gauge also. What else should I be looking at?

Obviously just having the tools isn’t enough and I know that there will be a learning curve. I have a few general machinist friends that will help me learn techniques for accurate repeatable results.

Thanks for any insight,
Nate

[70GS455]

A 6 or 12 (preferred) inch dial caliper is a handy. 1 inch .001 or .0001" dial gauge with stand and dial extenders is useful. Degree wheel.

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[Skip Fix]

Crank socket that fits a degree wheel.

[hurryinhoosier62]

A GOOD bore gauge in .0001( doesn’t have to a Sunnen gauge, but no Chinese crap) and a GOOD set of mic’s in .0001.

[Scott Stoneburg]

A good set of Micrometers..2"-3", 3"-4". And 4"-5" for rod and main journals on crank. A dial bore gauge is easier to measure cylinder bores and the main journals. But you can use inside mics to do it too.
A depth Mic to measure deck height
Degree wheel.
A ring filer
I probably left a couple necessary tools out.

[Schurkey]

Measurement (and assembly) tools

A real, quality, 24" straightedge and feeler gauges to check warpage of gasket surfaces.

Ring compressor (Lisle wrinkle-band for me, please.) For Fukk sakes, DO NOT buy the Asian knock-off which costs just as much as the genuine Lisle tool, but when I looked at them, they were assembled backwards. The sharp edge from the stamping of the slots in the band was turned inward, so the sharp edge would ruin the rings as you slap the pistons into place.) If you're doing a lot of similar engines, the tapered ring compressors are nice.

Camshaft handle. Can be as simple as a long bolt and jam nut threaded into the cam, so you can maneuver it through the bearings.

Oil pump primer Mostly un-needed, but some folks just can't get along without 'em. Can be as simple as a discarded distributor with the teeth ground off the gear, and a machine screw and jam-nut to use as a handle to crank it by hand.

I like the dial indicator base that slides into the lifter bores for degreeing cams. There's a couple sizes, be sure to buy the right one for the application.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4925/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66838/overview/

Split-ball gauges for checking valve guide diameter

Piston stop

"Checking" valve springs

Cam bearing installation tool

400-grit or finer valve lapping compound. For Fukk Sakes, do not buy the little tubes of Permatex Valve Grinding Compound, which appears to be about 60-grit, and might as well be playground sand in a wheel-bearing-grease carrier.

Wood-stick-with-a-suction-cup valve lapper.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-21100

[67drake]

I bought all my micrometers off of eBay used. Starretts for a song. I figured good old ones are better than new Chinese junk

[Scott Stoneburg]

Ring compressor (Lisle wrinkle-band for me, please.) For Fukk sakes, DO NOT buy the Asian knock-off which costs just as much as the genuine Lisle tool, but when I looked at them, they were assembled backwards. The sharp edge from the stamping of the slots in the band was turned inward, so the sharp edge would ruin the rings as you slap the pistons into place.) If you're doing a lot of similar engines, the tapered ring compressors are nice.

I like to use tapered ring compressors. The down side being that they are limited to a narrower bore diameter.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by 67drake

I bought all my micrometers off of eBay used. Starretts for a song. I figured good old ones are better than new Chinese junk

Yep ... that's where I got all my stuff with the exception of new digital calipers.

Buy yourself a good gauge standard to check them ... although super accurate full scale absolute measurements are often not needed as much as people think, you'll often be measuring "differences" of a few .001 rather than recording full scale measurements.

I've never bought a used mic yet that didn't read within .0002 of a gauge ... just buy examples that have been taken care of.

[bignate]

Is a 12” gauging depth bore gauge long enough for measuring the center main or cam bearing?

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by bignate

Is a 12” gauging depth bore gauge long enough for measuring the center main or cam bearing?

Yes for the mains: you can always remove main caps to get access. No for the cam bores. Mitutoyo makes an 18" dial bore gauge in .0001 graduation. It would work better.

[455Grandville]

Mag stand with a travel gauge.
You can find good quality tools on CL used for a good price from a retired machinist.

[bignate]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Yes for the mains: you can always remove main caps to get access. No for the cam bores. Mitutoyo makes an 18" dial bore gauge in .0001 graduation. It would work better.

I’m looking at a Mitutoyo 511-753 dial bore gauge with .0001” dial and the 10” extension rod. Is this what you are referring to?

Nate