#81  
Old 03-13-2008, 06:10 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Originally Posted by OVERULD
Jason:
I think Scott Tieman has some competition - your work and attention to detail is amazing. I'm not knocking Scott's work at all - I've seen his work and your's looks to be in the same class. Keep it up!

BJ
Thank you very much. That's a heck of a compliment. I've never seen Scott's work in person, but I have seen a couple of his cars in magazines and I know he's very respected in the GTO world.

I'm more of a Trans Am guy so this is my first "ground up" GTO restoration. One thing that I like about these GTOs is the fact that you can restore the entire chassis and mechanical and be able to work on it right there in the frame. It makes it MUCH easier to get everything set up and bolted in before you set the body back on. When you're doing a T/A like this......everything is bolted directly to the body so things are a little more cramped to work on.

The only down side is that GTOs are quite a bit bigger than T/As.....so that means alot more surface area to work on.

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  #82  
Old 03-13-2008, 07:04 PM
CDN2PLS2 CDN2PLS2 is offline
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Are you taking this to the GTO Nats this summer?

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  #83  
Old 03-13-2008, 08:53 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Originally Posted by CDN2PLS2
Are you taking this to the GTO Nats this summer?
If we still have it we'll take it.......but it will probably be sold by then. As soon as this car is done I'm going to sell it because I don't have the time to show it......and I think a new owner would enjoy taking out a "virgin" car to wow the crowds with.

Isn't it in Saratoga Springs this year?

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  #84  
Old 03-13-2008, 09:23 PM
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Mark Simiele Mark Simiele is offline
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It is in Saratoga and someone will get a stunning car when you do decide to sell it. You do fantastic work with spot on detailing.

Jason, what did you use to restore the trans housing? Did you media blast it first and them paint with the aluminium color paint? I will be doing mine soon and I'm curious.

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Last edited by Mark Simiele; 03-13-2008 at 09:34 PM.
  #85  
Old 03-13-2008, 09:37 PM
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BUQUICK BUQUICK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonD
Here is a picture of the original gas tank. It had all of it's stampings in blue paint. There was also a stamp on the top that I have not seen reproduced yet. It says "RMCO" with a big "V" underneath it. I basically had to create my own stencil for that to use on the new tank.
I think you were only seeing part of the ARMCO log and triangle. Here is a photo of a complete one.

Can you post another picture of the original USS logo? I have never seen a tank that had both logos. Usually one or the other since this ink stamping was from the supplier of the coil of raw material.


One thing is for sure, you guys are sure moving along with the restoration. I like seeing the progress and photos. Good luck with the rest of it. I'm glad to see the car getting a full restoration, it certainly deserves it.
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Last edited by BUQUICK; 03-13-2008 at 09:43 PM.
  #86  
Old 03-13-2008, 10:08 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUQUICK
I think you were only seeing part of the ARMCO log and triangle. Here is a photo of a complete one.

Can you post another picture of the original USS logo? I have never seen a tank that had both logos. Usually one or the other since this ink stamping was from the supplier of the coil of raw material.
.
Ahhhhhhh........so that's what that was. Thank you very much for posting that picture. I've never seen the "Armco" stamp before. It'll be underneath the tank pad and up against the body anyways I guess.

I mistook the the stamping underneath to be the "USS" stamp because I saw the "US" lettering and numbers very faintly. I'll probably just remove the "USS" stamp now. A little bit of paint thinner will wipe it off.

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  #87  
Old 03-13-2008, 10:13 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Simiele
It is in Saratoga and someone will get a stunning car when you do decide to sell it. You do fantastic work with spot on detailing.

Jason, what did you use to restore the trans housing? Did you media blast it first and them paint with the aluminium color paint? I will be doing mine soon and I'm curious.
Thanks Mark,

The actual tranny case was done by the rebuild shop that I take all my trannys to. I wasn't really happy with the color as it's a little too dark for my taste. I would have rather seen it look more like the bellhousing.....but it's not terrible looking.

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  #88  
Old 03-14-2008, 05:19 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Here is the original Ram Air III distributor (manual trans), part number 1112010 with a date code of July 18, 1969. Completely rebuilt and restored.

Notice the small red daub of paint on the distributor housing under the dwell adjustment window:



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  #89  
Old 03-17-2008, 10:54 PM
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Jason, thanks again for bringing all your hard work and dedication to the forums for all of us to be inspired. I cannot wait to see it done.
Will make someone proud to own it. I know there is no way in gods green earth I would be able to afford it. But I have my memories of mine.

Tim

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  #90  
Old 03-17-2008, 11:26 PM
Wakepowell Wakepowell is offline
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Another questions on your restoration, did you have the shift linkage gold CAD plated and was that the original finish? Thanks

  #91  
Old 03-18-2008, 12:21 AM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakepowell
Another questions on your restoration, did you have the shift linkage gold CAD plated and was that the original finish? Thanks
Yes all the gold cad linkages are the original finish. The rod that goes up to the steering column is silver cad plated, as is the clutch pedal rod.

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  #92  
Old 03-18-2008, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmaster
Jason, thanks again for bringing all your hard work and dedication to the forums for all of us to be inspired. I cannot wait to see it done.
Will make someone proud to own it. I know there is no way in gods green earth I would be able to afford it. But I have my memories of mine.

Tim
Thanks Tim.....no problem at all. I enjoy sharing my work with everybody.

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  #93  
Old 03-18-2008, 05:06 PM
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All the urethane filler primer on the body has been completely wet-blocked out to perfection and she's as smooth as glass.

The next step is to paint the bottom of the body in the correct black primer with white overspray, and to paint the cowl and firewall with a very low-gloss blackout paint. Then she goes back on the frame again.







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  #94  
Old 03-18-2008, 06:02 PM
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OVERULD OVERULD is offline
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Jason:
Why is the top of the body not done the same way as the quarters, hood, deck and door panels? Are you doing a different process on the roof?

BJ

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  #95  
Old 03-18-2008, 06:03 PM
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Beautiful work, Jason! Did you do the alternator yourself or did you send it out? If so, who did you use?

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  #96  
Old 03-19-2008, 05:55 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matador-IV
JasonD,
Do you have any pictures of the original bushings showing the different colors?
Here are the pictures of my original bushings......

Front spacers were blue:


The four middle spacers were pink:


And all the bolt-through mounts show traces of purple paint:

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  #97  
Old 03-19-2008, 05:56 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERULD
Jason:
Why is the top of the body not done the same way as the quarters, hood, deck and door panels? Are you doing a different process on the roof?

BJ
The roof was done the same way........I just had to do it seperately since it was so high up in the air on the rotisserie.


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  #98  
Old 03-19-2008, 05:58 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sport71
Beautiful work, Jason! Did you do the alternator yourself or did you send it out? If so, who did you use?
Thanks......I rebuilt the alternator myself. They are pretty easy to rebuild.

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  #99  
Old 03-19-2008, 06:07 PM
JasonD JasonD is offline
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The body was moved into the paint booth last night and the entire outside of the shell was coated in white sealer. This is just to protect the blocked primer finish and help get a little film build on the car before the actual painting takes place. This sealer coat will be wet sanded with 600 grit just before final painting.

As for the actual Polar White paint......we will be using DuPont ChromaOne acrylic urethane on this car. It's a single stage paint that is very tough and that polishes out nicely......yet still retains that original "look" of vintage paint without going mega-glossy like clearcoat finishes sometimes do.

The bottom of the car was sprayed with DuPont Black acrylic enamel in a 50% gloss to replicate the factory primer, and then oversprayed with Polar White while painting inside the wheelwells, and under the rockers and rear bumper area to replicate the factory look exactly.

The firewall and cowl area was then sprayed with black acrylic enamel in a 30% gloss to replicate the factory black-out paint sprayed up in there.

The rear wheelwells will be undercoated with the factory spray pattern used under there......which means some of the white paint in there will be showing near the bottom of the inner wheelhouse.

The body plugs will be installed using tan seam sealer, which must show a little bit through the bottom of the holes.




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  #100  
Old 03-19-2008, 06:21 PM
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TEG TEG is offline
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Jason:

Did you find any carpet tags on the car when you pulled the carpet up? My 1970 had tags that read "McGee Carpet" and were dated. I bought carpet tags from In-Line and they are nothing like what was on my car. If you found them, could you photograph them, please?

I have partial photos of mine and no longer have the 1970. FYI--the tags were stapled into the carpet under each bucket seat.

Thanks,

T.

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