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#81
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I'm more of a Trans Am guy so this is my first "ground up" GTO restoration. One thing that I like about these GTOs is the fact that you can restore the entire chassis and mechanical and be able to work on it right there in the frame. It makes it MUCH easier to get everything set up and bolted in before you set the body back on. When you're doing a T/A like this......everything is bolted directly to the body so things are a little more cramped to work on. The only down side is that GTOs are quite a bit bigger than T/As.....so that means alot more surface area to work on. |
#82
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Are you taking this to the GTO Nats this summer?
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#83
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Isn't it in Saratoga Springs this year? |
#84
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It is in Saratoga and someone will get a stunning car when you do decide to sell it. You do fantastic work with spot on detailing.
Jason, what did you use to restore the trans housing? Did you media blast it first and them paint with the aluminium color paint? I will be doing mine soon and I'm curious.
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69 GTO convertible Warwick blue w/parchment, 400 4bbl auto trans, #'s matching, frame off resto w/ 36 options and more coming. 67 Bonneville 428 convertible one of one Verdoro green w/parchment, documented GM brass hat parade car with every option for 67, non running MAJOR future project. Last edited by Mark Simiele; 03-13-2008 at 09:34 PM. |
#85
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Can you post another picture of the original USS logo? I have never seen a tank that had both logos. Usually one or the other since this ink stamping was from the supplier of the coil of raw material. One thing is for sure, you guys are sure moving along with the restoration. I like seeing the progress and photos. Good luck with the rest of it. I'm glad to see the car getting a full restoration, it certainly deserves it. Last edited by BUQUICK; 03-13-2008 at 09:43 PM. |
#86
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I mistook the the stamping underneath to be the "USS" stamp because I saw the "US" lettering and numbers very faintly. I'll probably just remove the "USS" stamp now. A little bit of paint thinner will wipe it off. |
#87
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The actual tranny case was done by the rebuild shop that I take all my trannys to. I wasn't really happy with the color as it's a little too dark for my taste. I would have rather seen it look more like the bellhousing.....but it's not terrible looking. |
#88
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Here is the original Ram Air III distributor (manual trans), part number 1112010 with a date code of July 18, 1969. Completely rebuilt and restored.
Notice the small red daub of paint on the distributor housing under the dwell adjustment window: |
#89
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Jason, thanks again for bringing all your hard work and dedication to the forums for all of us to be inspired. I cannot wait to see it done.
Will make someone proud to own it. I know there is no way in gods green earth I would be able to afford it. But I have my memories of mine. Tim
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A clone should NEVER bring more money that a true example. |
#90
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Another questions on your restoration, did you have the shift linkage gold CAD plated and was that the original finish? Thanks
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#91
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#92
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#93
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All the urethane filler primer on the body has been completely wet-blocked out to perfection and she's as smooth as glass.
The next step is to paint the bottom of the body in the correct black primer with white overspray, and to paint the cowl and firewall with a very low-gloss blackout paint. Then she goes back on the frame again. |
#94
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Jason:
Why is the top of the body not done the same way as the quarters, hood, deck and door panels? Are you doing a different process on the roof? BJ
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1971 GTO 455 HO 4-speed - Cameo White, White Vinyl Top, Jade Green Interior, Ram Air Hood, AC, Honeycombs and 8-track 1974 Formula 455 I Owned in 1975-1976. Now Own Its Twin From Same Dealership |
#95
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Beautiful work, Jason! Did you do the alternator yourself or did you send it out? If so, who did you use?
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1971 GTO 455 H.O. Ram Air Nordic Silver - Black |
#96
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Front spacers were blue: The four middle spacers were pink: And all the bolt-through mounts show traces of purple paint: |
#97
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#98
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#99
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The body was moved into the paint booth last night and the entire outside of the shell was coated in white sealer. This is just to protect the blocked primer finish and help get a little film build on the car before the actual painting takes place. This sealer coat will be wet sanded with 600 grit just before final painting.
As for the actual Polar White paint......we will be using DuPont ChromaOne acrylic urethane on this car. It's a single stage paint that is very tough and that polishes out nicely......yet still retains that original "look" of vintage paint without going mega-glossy like clearcoat finishes sometimes do. The bottom of the car was sprayed with DuPont Black acrylic enamel in a 50% gloss to replicate the factory primer, and then oversprayed with Polar White while painting inside the wheelwells, and under the rockers and rear bumper area to replicate the factory look exactly. The firewall and cowl area was then sprayed with black acrylic enamel in a 30% gloss to replicate the factory black-out paint sprayed up in there. The rear wheelwells will be undercoated with the factory spray pattern used under there......which means some of the white paint in there will be showing near the bottom of the inner wheelhouse. The body plugs will be installed using tan seam sealer, which must show a little bit through the bottom of the holes. |
#100
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Jason:
Did you find any carpet tags on the car when you pulled the carpet up? My 1970 had tags that read "McGee Carpet" and were dated. I bought carpet tags from In-Line and they are nothing like what was on my car. If you found them, could you photograph them, please? I have partial photos of mine and no longer have the 1970. FYI--the tags were stapled into the carpet under each bucket seat. Thanks, T. |
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