#21  
Old 09-28-2022, 05:06 PM
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Well its still leaking! I removed the nipple and heater hose pipe plugged it to eliminate a possibility of a leak and its completely dry. It starts leaking almost immediately, a drip every 5 seconds right off the bottom of the pan where the rear main is. I think its definitely a freeze plug, its probably running down the rear of the block hitting the bottom ridge and running onto the pan. Guess my options are the barsleak or pulling the transmission to replace the plug.

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  #22  
Old 09-28-2022, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Air IV Jack View Post
I remember those GM sealing pellets and used them on the Cadillac 4.1 L engines in the 80's. These engines were notorious for having intake manifold gasket leaks because of the aluminum intake and cast-iron blocks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Air IV Jack View Post
the comment about GM using them because they didn't want warranty repairs doesn't wash!
If the 4.1L engines you referenced were notorious for leaks, what do you mean it "doesn't wash"? Why would they have spent the money to use them in the first place if it wasn't to reduce the number of cars requiring service to fix coolant leaks?

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  #23  
Old 09-28-2022, 05:09 PM
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Couple pics
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2022, 05:28 PM
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Anyone think I should drain the oil and check that? I wouldnt think coolant would be leaking past the pan seal with no oil present at all right? I dont have a dipstick tube in this car as I was going to use the Canton dipstick but the dougs headers made that impossible

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  #25  
Old 09-28-2022, 05:37 PM
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Just look in the valve cover filler with a flashlight.
Any coolant in oil turns it into a chocolate looking milk shake .

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  #26  
Old 09-28-2022, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25stevem View Post
Just look in the valve cover filler with a flashlight.
Any coolant in oil turns it into a chocolate looking milk shake .
Good point, i have a shield covering the holes under the breather and oil fil but I should still see moisture.

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  #27  
Old 09-28-2022, 06:27 PM
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Yeah its the freeze plugs. I was able to get an inspection mirror behind the torque converter and could clearly see antifreeze running from a spot where the edge of the plug meets the block. Crap.

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Old 09-28-2022, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25stevem View Post
For 51 years I have purposely used Teflon tape on pipe plugs / pipe thread fittings ( as seen here ) that thread into aluminum.

When done correctly there is never a leak.
Use whatever the the hell you care to, but don’t degrade something thing that works when it clearly does, and in fact time after time it does so!
The problem is not that Teflon/PTFE "tape" doesn't prevent leaks.

The problem is that it shreds and contaminates the system. Therefore, worse on oiling systems than on coolant systems. And why it works just fine for natural gas installations--which tend to last the life of the water heater or furnace; potentially decades before a person needs to dick with them again. And those applications also tend to be out in the open making for easier clean-up.

Which is why a chemical solution (anaerobic paste sealer) is much preferable to Teflon (PTFE) "tape" on automotive applications, since there's almost no product remaining in the system after disassembly, except what's easily removed from the male fitting; and traces on the female side. All the excess squeezes-out during assembly.

I've had all I can stand of picking thread tape out of castings or fittings with a tweezer 'n' compressed air. The anaerobic sealers are so infinitely superior in that regard--provided at least one of the fittings is "active"; iron/steel/brass. (Aluminum isn't "active".) Otherwise, applying the Permatex "activator" spray is enormously helpful.

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Old 09-28-2022, 09:03 PM
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Dam, sorry to hear that its a plug!

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  #30  
Old 09-29-2022, 07:28 AM
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"Thanks for all the replies, super helpful all the way around. I did use tedlon tape originally but will be switching to a thread sealer tonight."

We are WAY past using teflon tape on anything. It's will work but MUST be wrapped correctly and it's a one time deal as it shreds into scores of thin pieces if you back the fitting up anywhere along the way.

Get and use this instead, our local Rural King has it for about $15 for the large can:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...iABEgLOXvD_BwE

I discovered this stuff way back in the 1980's and chit canned all the teflon tape and never looked back.......

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Old 09-29-2022, 02:28 PM
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Same here, been using that for years.

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  #32  
Old 09-29-2022, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R View Post
Get and use this instead, our local Rural King has it for about $15 for the large can:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...iABEgLOXvD_BwE

I discovered this stuff way back in the 1980's and chit canned all the teflon tape and never looked back.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Same here, been using that for years.
That's a simple, air-drying (solvent evaporates) pipe thread sealer. No shreds of "tape", and that alone makes it better to work with than "tape", but if you think that stuff works good, just wait until you try one of the several varieties of the anaerobic "Teflon" (Generic Teflon is "PTFE", not made by DuPont) sealers.

The company I worked for spec'ed the anaerobic sealer. I forget which variety--may have been 565, or 567, or maybe something else in that same family of products. (I use 592 in my home-shop) But we had perpetual supply problems; the "head office" wouldn't send us enough of the "good stuff".

So the local officials at our plant bought the giant-economy-size tubs of the stuff Cliff linked to. Within one week, the supervisors confiscated the big tubs and made sure we had the anaerobic sealer--the fluid leak rate went out-of-sight. As soon as the anaerobic sealer was back in general use, the leak rate magically went back to near-zero where it was before.

Strangely, they did the exact same thing about a year later. The results were predictably identical. About a week after giving us the tubs of solvent-evaporating sealer, they confiscated 'em again, and gave us the anaerobic stuff like we should have had all along.

I've been a believer ever since the first time they tried to replace the "good" "Teflon" anaerobic paste with the "cheap" brush-top tubs of "Teflon" sealer.

Some time later, I put in a request to the Company to take home the solvent-evaporating brush-top tubs of Teflon sealer. My request was granted, they wanted nothing to do with the stuff any more. I painted embossed-steel-shim head gaskets with the stuff. Worked great.


Last edited by Schurkey; 09-29-2022 at 04:32 PM.
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  #33  
Old 09-29-2022, 05:00 PM
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Teflon tape should not be used on a automobile. It is asking for problems, I have used the Permatex white teflon stuff for years, works. I have used Permatex # 2 on threads, works fine.
I use Permatex Aviation on the oil galley plugs in the engine because it does not dry/harden and it works great.
Teflon tape is for plumbers.

  #34  
Old 09-29-2022, 05:46 PM
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Let’s see if I got this right then.
Plumbers use Teflon tape in water systems, but yet it can’t be used in a cars cooling system connections .

Please stop with these never never statements.

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Last edited by 25stevem; 09-29-2022 at 05:57 PM.
  #35  
Old 09-29-2022, 05:53 PM
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I would take the PIA route to fix this and drop the Trans.

God forbid there is a crack at the rear of the block you want to now about now, not when parts come flying out the block at 6500 rpm one day!

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  #36  
Old 09-29-2022, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud View Post
Only twice did i have multiple freeseplug leaks on a fresh build. Prior builds left the plugs in for the win.

1 jar of Barrs stop leak solved the freezeplug leaks, on both leaky builds, forever.
Post #2 ^^^^^^^

  #37  
Old 09-30-2022, 11:08 AM
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Im So tempted to try the bars leak. The machine shop that assembled the lower end suggested it too. I can see the spot its leaking from and the plugs look like they were installed properly, probably a small nick in the block or plug that the sealant he used didnt fill well. I did order mew plugs as well.

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  #38  
Old 09-30-2022, 12:28 PM
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I imagine it wouldn't take you more than a day to remove the trans, replace the leaking plug, and get the car put back together though, right? I'd just take a Saturday and get 'er done.

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  #39  
Old 10-01-2022, 08:19 AM
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Who did the machine work? They should be stepping up. I would pull tranny and fix it now, or else wonder every time you use it if the sealer will fail.

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Old 10-01-2022, 08:46 AM
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Mid Cape Machine. I did call him and he was vey apologetic. Im sure if I brought the engine to him he would fix it but I'm not pulling it. This is the first engine I have farmed out as I always build them myself but he offered and im limited on time these days with work.Im going to bite the bullet and pull the trans and replace it in car, plugs arrive today so I'm going to start after lunch.

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