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#1
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Distributor removal
Is there a way to remove the distributor, reverse it, then re-install without messing up the timing? My engine rebuilder installed the distributor backwards (vacuum advance on the wrong side). Engine is on the bare frame and will not be started for a long time so I won't be able to check if it is in right. Thanks for any tips.
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#2
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Leave it alone until you're ready to run the engine, and have a timing light handy.
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#3
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Sure, turn the engine for #1 at TDC and valve closed, pull the distributor, position it with the vacuum can and rotor 90° to the drivers side of engine and drop it in.
When fully seated the rotor tip will point at drivers seat and this will be #1 cable location. Set initial by turning the engine to the 6° BTD mark, use a test lamp to - on coil and ground, turn the distributor for the lamp to just go out and tighten clamp. Jobs done! |
#4
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Leave it the way it is and get the motor thru the fire up & break in period even if it has a Hydro roller cam, as if you forgive me for saying you don't sound all that sure about what your doing and the builder likely does.
Then when the motor is confirmed to be running we'll do the swap over!
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
The Following User Says Thank You to steve25 For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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If the distributor can be indexed to fine-tune timing without interference at firewall or intake it doesn't matter where vacuum can is pointing.
__________________
Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project |
#6
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You dont have pull distributor. Just start reclocking the plugs wire ccw till you get the distributor pulled around where you want it. Mark where number one wire is on cap before you start.
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#7
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HTH
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#8
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Hi Kenth. I am doing it the way you said. I think I may have messed it up though. The distributor is where it should be located (according to the link you posted), but I have Petronix and don't know how to set an initial timing. In your last reply, what does HTH mean?
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#9
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Actually should have went with majority on this one. You can get somewhat close, but your degree of error eyeballing things is at best about plus or minus six degrees. At best it will be close enough to get it started so you can properly time it.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#10
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Ugh!
Quote:
Thank you ALL for the great advice. This engine has been a nightmare. Twice I asked for a factory correct rebuild (all numbers matching) and supplied both builders all the correct hardware, bolts, paint etc. The first builder painted it with run of the mill black paint he had lying around his shop, didn't have hardened valve seats installed like I requested (he said it didn't need them), used his own bolts he had lying around his shop, and messed up the rocker arm assembly to where metal shavings were in the oil, etc. Fortunately, the second rebuilder found this out and changed everything out before it did any damage. The second rebuild was supposed to be a simple freshening up of the engine to give it the original factory look. After finding how messed up it was, I decided to give it a complete second rebuild which cost another $7500. The second builder also used some of his own bolts and didn't paint the engine after most of the components were installed like the factory did so I have to do a lot of touch up painting. Not to mention, he had my NOS harmonic balancer re-sleeved without asking among other things and the second builder got far less horsepower and torque! These things are really not big deals in and of themselves...but it wasn't what the customer wanted and paid for! $15,000 wrapped up into an engine that is still not done yet! |
#11
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Found out that HTH means Happy To Help. I gotta get out more often.
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#12
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I thought it meant "Hope this Helps"
__________________
Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project |
The Following User Says Thank You to grivera For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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No issue with a pertronix.When you get it on number 1,turn the balancer till about 12 degrees BFTD.Turn the key on when you have your timing light ready.Just move the dizzy R to L and back untill it flashes.Lock it down and your good to go.Tom
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#14
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Will do just that when the time comes. I may need to incorporate your help in person though. Talk to ya at the next show if there is one this year.
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#15
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You're probably right. At least I got one word correct...almost...if you add an s that is...at least I got 4 letters in a row correct....HELP...which is what I needed.
And all of those who responded did indeed help a lot and IAI...I appreciate it! |
#16
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Enderly is this Sunday in Tustin.Tom
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#17
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Thanks Tom. Probably won't be there but hope to have made progress by next spring. Semi retired recently so I finally have more time to spend on cars. Enjoy the show if you attend.
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