#81  
Old 05-14-2020, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarebird View Post
Another reason for the rear bar work - according to my calculations, the 11/16" bar with it's shorter arms and overall length will have 71K lbs/in versus the 34K for the stock bar - if the whole rear arm in used for moment length.

By the same calc method the WW5 Y99 1"Ø bar yields 59K.

I saw your comparison to the WW5 sway bar, That bar is 1.125. Sorry if I missed something, I haven't read through your entire post yet. Got some cool stuff going on!

  #82  
Old 05-27-2020, 12:55 AM
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I have been steadily pecking away at the 71 - usually at the end of the day. Today I received the new blower fan from the rear of a 1985-2001 Astro rear console. It is identical to the existing fan except for the size of the motor.

I mounted it in position and tested it out - moved quite a bit of air compared to the OEM one run next. One thing I also noticed was a hell of a lot of air was blowing past the blower shroud to firewall interface. This was sealed with 3M ribbon caulk. A quick inspection with a flashlight reveled a sizable gap on the upper left corner. More ribbon caulk sealed that from the inside as the firewall was somewhat warped in that area.

One wonders how many GM's had this issue right out of the factory?




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  #83  
Old 06-13-2020, 08:48 PM
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One of the items being refitted is an Edelbrock Pro 4 Port EFI. The kit looks good - except for the harness. I wanted to fit the harness before the doghouse was installed. All the leads are long and sheathed in stiff tubing and frankly looked like sh*t installed.

I said screw that and cut the tubing off and shortened most of the leads, then resheathed them in split tubing. This took a few hours but was well worth it.

If you get the Pro Flow setup, redo the harness (at least the sensor harness) while the manifold is loose on the bench - much easier!

  #84  
Old 06-14-2020, 08:36 AM
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Totally agree on the harnesses, they make them 'universally' long, and it is worth the effort to clean them up. With proper crimpers and terminals, it's not that big of a job, and the results speak for themselves.

EDIT: Using the nylon braided sleeving makes it look really nice.

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  #85  
Old 07-04-2020, 06:45 PM
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Lemans is scheduled to go back to painter; doors, fenders, hood etc will be hung and sprayed as a unit. I am racing to get stuff done that is much easier without the tin in the way. Mounting the brake booster is top of the list here! Also reinstalling the custom brake lines, prop valve etc.

Time is an issue as work is almost double normal for this time of year - no easy days!

  #86  
Old 07-06-2020, 01:17 AM
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More work today, mainly tidying the wiring in the engine bay. Noted that the rear springs can come loose - I think the Konis are too long and allow the spring to unseat. Made a simple guide that bolts in place so spring cannot work loose.



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  #87  
Old 07-08-2020, 11:35 PM
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Painter came in with the doors. Will hang them, mount glass inside then adjust. Car will go back Friday for paint on flatbed.



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  #88  
Old 07-09-2020, 12:28 PM
1965gp 1965gp is offline
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Color looks great!

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Old 07-09-2020, 10:15 PM
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Thanks. Put in door glass - easier than the Trans Am, much easier.

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Old 07-16-2020, 11:03 PM
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Car went back to paint Tuesday, painter says it will be back next weekend...

So in the mean time when I get a spare moment other things get done.

I should have simply removed the rivets and sent out the hinges after plating to be reriveted - but instead used bushings and stainless bolts to make a very smooth operating hinge. My TA have the same thing - can move the hood easily with two fingers. The tack welds will get fused once operation is verified and then brushed and lubed.

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  #91  
Old 07-21-2020, 07:56 AM
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People overlook the NEED for properly operating hinges too often. At LEAST keep them well lubed, and always push back on the hood as you push down to close it.

Hoods 'bow' from lack of attention of doing this, and over time the hood can actually crack along the edge pinch weld area.

Ever see how hoods don't quite align right along the length of a fender, but are properly adjusted in the front and back? Now you know why.

On my 'bird, I had my body guy weld in a section of angle iron along the 'rail' of the hood pinch weld, which helps avoid the dreaded 'bow'. Works very well, and you really have to look to see it. Most never notice.


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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
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  #92  
Old 11-20-2020, 02:37 AM
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Our painter is not the best manager of time to put it mildly.

Car sat for 3 months, then I get a sketchy bill. A friend intervened before things got really ugly and all lawyered up.

This is what I got texted this evening:



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  #93  
Old 11-20-2020, 10:06 AM
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Looks good!

Nice you have a friend that would do that for you, wish I had one that did the same for me!


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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #94  
Old 11-26-2020, 01:00 AM
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Back in drydock.

Painter hauled car up in a new trailer. Unfortunately the ramp stays moved some and scratched the paint during transit. This car is jinxed. He offered to haul it up or take it back and mend it. I decided to have it delivered; if there is further damage from assembly he will repair it. As penance he is repainting the 71 grilles and surrounds.

Pushed it into the shop without further trauma. Fenders just attached for transit, as was trunk. Hood was hung from overhead as were inner fenders.
First order of battle is to modify aftermarket hinges - they do not slide to the rear far enough. Hinge bolt openings in cowl may be a better plan.



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  #95  
Old 11-28-2020, 12:15 AM
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Started with the doors. As noted the hinges do not slide back far enough, leaving a 0.300" gap, both sides. 3 choices: open up cowl hole, put slot in hinge or make 4 shims for the doors.

I tried the cowl hole first. Have an electric Dremel type hand router, but no carbide. Tried a 1/4" 2 flute end mill - 11,000 rpm and it dug in and kicked back like a mule.

So much for that.

Removed one hinge at a time and mounted in the Bridgeport - lengthened slot 0.120". After mounting the hinges and jiggling the door about got a 0.200" rear gap - looks about right but could not find in the GM Body Manual what the dimension is supposed to be.

So much for day one.



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  #96  
Old 11-28-2020, 12:30 AM
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After shipping out a bunch of stuff, looked for something to do on the LeMans. Found the new spark plug wires - mnnh, that would go on nice before the doghouse goes on.

I bought one of those ratcheting wire crimpers - Summit has them, they work superbly! I remember making wires with a pair of needlenose - charlie-fox!



The Taylor wire and ends worked well - used dish soap as lube and away I went. Only initial issue was stripping the conductor off. I had a piece of scrap metal with a notch in it, it was just the thing. Summit should put a notch like this in the end of the crimper handle and it would really go!



Back to the doors. I installed the weatherstripping, those little plastic pins are a PITA. I wonder what the factory did here?

Once the weatherstripping was mounted, I put in the striker in the "B" pillar.
Passenger side went well, driver's side horrible - latch won't accept striker?

I noted also the door has a ton of sandblast in it - WTF? Painter was done blasting first go-around. Now the window mechanisms will have to be pulled and cleaned.
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  #97  
Old 11-28-2020, 09:27 PM
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I found the same issue with the doors on my 72 vert. I ended up making shims to get them to slid back more.

  #98  
Old 11-29-2020, 09:20 AM
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I just became aware of your thread and am still getting caught up. It sure looks like your painter did a great job. I wish I had that much space in my work room as I don't have enough space to paint everything in one session when the panels are removed. Because of that, I'm thinking about not painting my '69 the original color and choosing one of the non-metallic colors where you can paint parts in different sessions and still have everything match.

Congrats on a doing such a great job. Your car is going to be gorgeous.

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  #99  
Old 12-05-2020, 01:16 AM
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Thank you Roger, I look forward to see how your 69 finishes. I do not have the bodywork skill to do it myself.

Did not have much time today for the car - but did make a tool that will help out.
For some damn reason I did not take my bench buffer when I moved, so instead of buying a new one I built a simple expedient. A piece of heavy tubing with a collar that just fits inside the lathe pass thru secures the buffing pad.

The 3-jaw secures the other end. Run the lathe at any speed desired and easier access than a buffer!


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  #100  
Old 12-05-2020, 01:03 PM
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Nice adapter for your lathe. Seems like an upgrade with the longer spindle. To get it on some areas a standard buffer can’t get to... those areas do exist... looks like it’ll get the job done!
Back when I was doing a bunch of this restoration work for people, I bought the big unit from Eastwood and it’s a beast! Very essential for stainless and that finishing touch. Plenty of power and no problem ripping something right out of your grip and across the shop...

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