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Old 01-03-2018, 10:13 PM
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Default '65 Hood Latch Plating Detail

A friend asked me to get his hood latch pieces plated. He suggested yellow (gold) zinc for everything. First two pictures are of all the '65 parts.

When I did my '64, I got the safety latch assy. plated yellow, the small spring black zinc,

I had the bullet-shaped latch plated bright (silver) zinc, along with the nut & washer. '64 has no large spring.

My '64 is shown in the last photo.

What do you '65 gurus think the correct plating is for these parts? Various things I've read vary on what is correct.

Your input will be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:22 PM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
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Does not look like the dull Cad plating they should be. Too shiny and looks like they have been wire wheeled. Yours look good but not if you are going for correct.



Although this is not the correct piece it is how they looked.



Last edited by Chief of the 60's; 01-03-2018 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:46 PM
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Dick I pulled the safety catch from my 65 and the area bolted to the hood and not exposed, appears as bright silver cad. The 64 catch looks identical and also has bright cad underneath. I think the latch bolt is a less bright cad and the nut, washer, 2 attaching bolts and spring appear black phos. I don`t see any gold but that doesn`t mean it hasn`t faded to a dull silver.

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Old 01-04-2018, 05:40 PM
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Chief of the '60's: Getting a dull finish has all to do with surface prep before plating. Media blast on steel with aggressive media gives a very dull finish. Glass bead blasting results in a satin-like finish like your picture above.

War eagle: Good info. I often find the plating that is hidden from light and the elements holds the yellow color. If you remove an item and it shows bright plating behind, it's not likely it was ever yellow.

Thank you both.

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Old 01-04-2018, 11:56 PM
RA1John RA1John is offline
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Any tips, referrals for plating hardware, brackets, clips, fasteners? Black phosphate, zinc, cad, etc?

Do you blast everything first then tag & bag and take to plater? Plater recommendations?

How do you avoid loosing fasteners?

Thx!

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Old 01-05-2018, 12:59 AM
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You first find a plater who's interested in cars. You establish a relationship with the staff & workers--like buying them sweet rolls when you pick up & pay for your parts. Don't ask in advance how much the bill will be until you pick the completed parts up. Then, be sure to have the kind of payment that the shop wants from you--check, cash, PayPal, credit card. This you need to establish up front.

I blast and/or wire brush the parts so they're ready for the tank. Sometimes I use Scotchbrite. If being done for different people, and the owner cannot be identified by looking at the parts, I put them in separate flat cardboard boxes. I put all the really small parts such as rod clips, washers, small screws/bolts in separate plastic pans so they're easy to dump into the basket for plating.

I use my smartphone to take a picture of each group of parts so I know if any pieces, including nuts & bolts were lost. Loss does happen, but more often than not, the operator can find your lost parts in the bottom of the tank or on the floor. As you all know, many of our parts are not replaceable.

If you try to deal with your car parts plating like you deal with a local repair shop without trust & some enthusiasm by both parties, I guarantee your plating experience will be a nightmare.

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Old 01-05-2018, 10:40 AM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
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The photos of the parts I posted are of NOS pieces, not blasted and/or restored ones.

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Old 01-05-2018, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's View Post
The photos of the parts I posted are of NOS pieces, not blasted and/or restored ones.
Thanks. I have five NOS Pontiac Tripower carbs. They have been stored inside a heated shop since they were produced. The plated levers, rods, clips, screws, and the carb bodies all look OK, but the surfaces exposed to the environment are not the same color/sheen as they once were.

I've removed the airhorn on one of the carbs. Inside the float bowl, the diecast is a nice greenish-gold irridescent finish. Outside, you can barely see any hint of the original gold color. The plated steel levers all are dull silver color. When I remove a lever and examine the protected area between the lever and carb body, the plating looks shiny & quite different in color than the exposed areas.

My point is---The NOS parts we have are a great reference point, but seldom represent how these parts looked when new.

I've had similar experience with zinc vs. cadmium plating. Many enthusiasts insist that the plated parts on our '60's cars were cad rather than zinc. I don't doubt that this is true. What I do doubt, however, is that cad & zinc appear so different that "anyone can tell." I've had identical pieces plated zinc and cad after identical prep. I would defy anyone who is not a plating expert to ID which is which. In my experience, appearance varies more between batches of plating than by whether zinc or cad is used. Also, surface prep before plating is key to how the finished part will look.
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Old 01-05-2018, 01:50 PM
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Dick did you remove the pivot pin then make a new one? I would think that the original pin crimp would handle removal then recrimp. The NOS part would seem to show the mounting bracket bright cad and the rest yellow? I almost think my catch arm shows bright cad but either way the catch needs to be disassembled to properly plate?(color) For the return spring as well.

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Old 01-05-2018, 07:11 PM
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I've had several of these plated in the past. If going with one color for the mounting bracket and the safety latch, there is no need to remove the pivot pin--the plating applies evenly to both pieces. I just remove the spiral spring for the black zinc color.

I've had several door latch assy. plated, also. In these units, there are many pieces held together by crimps & pins. The plating has been good with no disassembly. The one caution there is the small spiral spring--it is burned in half if left in place. The low voltage-high current DC has melted three of those springs on the latches I've had plated. Luckily, Inline Tube and others sell this spring--There is a left and right hand version.

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Old 01-11-2018, 10:45 AM
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The 65 did not use the large spring and related parts you show for hood POP UP. There is also a safety catch limiting bracket that is used on later 65 cars that you do not show. Early cars like mine that I show in pic do not use that hardware.
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Old 01-11-2018, 12:13 PM
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I believe the spring was introduced in '65. '64 did not have it.

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Old 01-11-2018, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
I believe the spring was introduced in '65. '64 did not have it.
see pic
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:02 PM
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The extra hardware that is shown is what I speak of in my orignal post

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Old 01-11-2018, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dld View Post
see pic
That appears to be from the GTO Restoration Guide which over the years has proven to have some inaccuracies. All the '65's I've seen have the release spring. It's possible early '65's did not have it and it was a mid year production change.

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Old 01-11-2018, 02:07 PM
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here is a example of a 65 without the safety release stop or the 66 hardware
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:16 PM
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Oh! here is a BF car 65 note hood latch

note March build date
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:23 PM
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here is a 66 car hood . note speed nut for emblem
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
That appears to be from the GTO Restoration Guide which over the years has proven to have some inaccuracies. All the '65's I've seen have the release spring. It's possible early '65's did not have it and it was a mid year production change.
Mine is a a Dec. 64' and did not have the spring.

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