[estokes-bonnie66]

So I am going to install a PowerGEN alternator conversion in my 1957 safari. I feel the gen is just not keeping up. I have FITech trottle body and have been stranded due to non-charging. Gen was rebuilt.

Anyway. Based on what I see in the manual. PowerGen wants a 6 ga wire to the starter. Fine. And a good ground. Easy.

QUESTION: Can I take the ammeter wire at the regulator and attach it to the same spot on the starter to retain the ammeter? Regulator goes on the garage shelf.


Ed S
1957 Safari

[Bill Hanlon]

Looks to me like one side of the ammeter is attached to the post on the starter solenoid that is connected to battery + (yellow wire) and the other side of the ammeter is attached to the B post on the voltage regulator (red wire). Here is the schematic I am using for reference: http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/w...57-pontiac.jpg
Unless I misunderstand your question, it seems to me that the red wire should be removed from the B post on the regulator, the brown wire should be removed from the A post on the alternator and then the brown and red wires should be connects together.

[Bill Hanlon]

Sorry about the bad link in my post above. Here is the schematic.

Powermaster recommends 10 gauge or larger wiring from the alternator to the distribution point.

[pfilean]

They are asking for a larger wire from the generator to allow for higher amperage output between the generator and the battery. In factory wiring that circuit also goes (by some path) through the ammeter and needs the larger wire all the way. But if you put in larger wire in such a way that the higher current will pass through the ammeter is the ammeter capable of handling the higher current? Presumably it will force the ammeter to "peg" which may or may not ruin the mechanism. But will the ammeter accept the higher current without becoming a fuse? Or worse yet a fire starter? On some applications (old Ford comes to mind) the wire from the generator only passed through a loop and there were no terminals on the ammeter. So the higher current would only have caused the needle to peg but the higher current itself would not pass through the ammeter. Not sure how the Pontiac meter looks inside.

[estokes-bonnie66]

The only way the ammeter will 'read' anything is if it is in series with the battery. So with out changing anything else, no added load etc. See diagram from manual. The starter is not shown but inline between the battery and the ammeter.

Going straight to the starter with the proper gauge wire from the alt/gen will bypass the ammeter. Bummer.

If I connect the wires at the regulator like mentioned I keep the ammeter and the same loads mostly. The main difference is the FITech TB and solid state dizzy.

My FITech trottle body gets it signal/power to run from the coil (added load). The signal then turns on the pump relay which is connected to the battery.

Looks like I'll be missing the ammeter. Anyone know what gauge the RED battery wire is in the stock car?


Ed S

[fyrffytr1]

Have you already purchased the alternator? If not you might want to check out the stealth alternator on this site. It may not suit your needs but it might be an option.
http://www.rottenleonard.com/