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Old 09-22-2016, 09:04 PM
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I went with this Robert Shaw. I tested it in a pot of boiling water along side the old one. The new one not only opened right sty 160, but it also snapped open quicker than the cheap one.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-330-160

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Old 09-23-2016, 01:47 AM
rexs73gto rexs73gto is offline
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Adam you said this one opened when it should , what about the older or other one. Where did it open compared to the robert shaw one. ?? I'm going to install another new one when I change the fan blade.

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Old 09-23-2016, 06:03 AM
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I might have listed that info on my coming thread in the spring, but I seem to recall the 180 started opening closer to 185-190, but it moved didn't both to open and close.

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Old 09-23-2016, 08:59 AM
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I have run Robert Shaw T-states exclusively for about 10 years now, I used to always change the T-stat when ever I changed Fluids or hoses until about 15 years ago. That's when I got a succession of junk new T-stats from my local auto parts store.
My mothers car had no overheating issues, I changed the hoses coolant, and T-stat, she drove it about 10 miles from my house and it overheated. After geting back home I discovered the "new" T-stat would not open fully. Put the old one back in and she never had another issue with it. Had several customers cars do simalure things. Stopped using Stat and NAPA brand T-stats after that summer.
I am sure that other brand premiem or high flow stats would work also, I have just never used them.

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Old 09-23-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam View Post
I might have listed that info on my coming thread in the spring, but I seem to recall the 180 started opening closer to 185-190, but it moved didn't both to open and close.
I just reread my post. Didn't make a lot of sense. Stupid smart phones.

What I was saying is that the older 180* t-state (brand unknown) opened around 185-190 or so, but definitely opened slower and closed slower than the new Robert Shaw. I had them both in the same pot of water. The new 160 stat practically snapped open and closed right at 160 or so.

And when driving on a cool day, the car temps sit at 160-165. On the highway, I'm still seeing 181* at 3,000 RPM. (this is with a 18.5" fan, modified clutch and no fan shroud due to aftermarket radiator).

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Old 09-26-2016, 07:25 AM
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FYI, I had the car out for a while yesterday, including a "Cruise to the Show" parade. The temps were cool so the car runs right at 160 or 165* (I assume depending on whether the t-stat is open or closed). So I have no motivation to install that 19.5" fan I have.

I did, however, finally remove about 2lbs of electric fan wire, relays and switches! That's worth 50hp, right?

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Old 09-26-2016, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camerjeff View Post
I have run Robert Shaw T-states exclusively for about 10 years now.
Me too. Went through the same BS with the cheapo t-stats. Best $ you can spend. I also like how they have the coolant holes in the t-stat.

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Old 09-26-2016, 07:47 PM
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I drove my car to the show we have at a drive-in rest. on sunday. Guess what happened. The new cheapo T-sat stuck shut & by the time I got there it was at about 240* & it was percolating in the overflow. I let it cool down took it home pulled the T-stat out & it was still stuck shut. I went to the speed shop & bought a Robert Shaw stat today & I'm going to get a new upper hose just because, & I hope this will help. The cheapo one did work fine for about 1 week & stayed right about 165-170 when I took it out about 4 times during the past week & now I'm back. But with this new RS stat & new hose I hope it will work better. I'll see when I go out tomorrow with it. I pulled the fan off as the 19.5 inch fan should be here then too. Crossing my fingers for fix to work.

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Old 09-26-2016, 07:59 PM
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sheesh! that's some bad luck! Do you have a spring in the lower radiator hose to prevent it from collapsing? As long as you're in there, figured it couldn't hurt.

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Old 09-27-2016, 01:36 AM
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No it doesn't but if & when I get a new lower hose I'll have to get one with it in or have to rig something up. But at present it doesn't seem to be collapsing on me. I haven't seen it happen & can't see any signs of it ever doing that. BUT,,,,,. I did get the Robert Shaw T-stat in it today , but haven't been able to start it as I have the fan off it right now so when the 7 blade 19.5 fan comes I can put that on, theres no shows for a couple of days so I have time. I also bought some of the stuff from Lucus which is like water wetter to put in as it says it will lower the temps at least 20* which if it does it will be right at the temp I want it to be. Plus I got a new upper hose & put that on too. Something I do has to fix it. I think while I've got it drained down right now to do the T-Stat I might as well find & install the spring in the lower hose. I'll find something tomorrow to put in the lower hose. It can't hurt.

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Old 09-27-2016, 06:00 AM
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Before I bought the spring from Ames, I made one by winding up some heavy fencing/bailing type wire.

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Old 09-29-2016, 05:16 PM
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I installed one of the chrome metal hoses that will never collapse & put the 19.5 inch 7 blade fan with the Lucus stuff that suppose to bring the temps down & a Robert Shaw T-stat today. It stll got hotter then I wanted . I let it sit in the drive for about 20 min's & it got up the about 210-220 on my gauge but it did come down when I reved it up. It came down about 10-20 *'s when I did that. I will try to put the 1 inch spacer on it to move the fan closer tonight to see if that helps it some. I have a parade on Sat. so I need to get the temp down some so i can go in it. Will see tonight after the spacer get on to see if that helps.

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Old 06-02-2017, 01:47 PM
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Glad to see you. Where are we at on this one? Any updates?

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Old 06-03-2017, 01:25 AM
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My problem is over I installed a new alum. rad as the one I had in there was bad . I now have one that I bought from ebay which cost me $ 175.00 delivered to my house. The set up thats in the car right now is the 7 blade clutch fan 19" with the std. upper & lower rad hose. A 165* T-stat & I can now run it all the time no matter what , hot or cold weather & it will run no more then 170*'s . The rad. is a KKS brand & is just a 3 core rad & it works GREAT. I don't have any idea why the other alum. rad I had wouldn't work the way this one does but I can say without a doubt it's the best one I've found & was a great price. It was listed at $ 195 or best offer I I bid on it for the $ 175.00 & that was with the shipping & they took it & it works great.

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Old 06-03-2017, 10:45 AM
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I don't wanna be a Monday morning Quarterback, but...
after reading this whole post I suspected your radiator all along. Not because there was problem with it per se, but in one of your earlier posts you mentioned it was 3 inches thick. Although it would have a lot of coolant capacity it would have a difficulty passing air. At speed that's not a problem, at idle that's another story. That is the caveat of having a 4 core in the old days is, it was always hard to get air through it and brass doesn't shed heat like aluminum. All newer cars (aluminum core) either have a 1 row radiator where the tubes are an inch wide or a two row core. That's why all these ($150.00) Chinese radiators work so good. They're aluminum which dissipates heat by virtue of being aluminum and they are thin (narrow), as long as they don't leak because of being cheaply made. I would be reluctant to buy a Griffin, they're designed originally for NASCAR, very little idling and 190 MPH speeds, they are quality and they are thick. JMHO

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Old 06-03-2017, 05:01 PM
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That may have been the case with the Alum. 4 core but I had a 4 core from the factory in my 73 GTO. My 73 GTO came from the factory with a 4 core & since new it NEVER would over heat or run hot. I know as I bought my car new & put all the miles on it myself. It always ran right at about 180* no mater if I let it sit idling or running it hard on the track or street. I put that 1st Alum. in & it ran a bit hotter at first but came to run at the 180* mark after that. After the engine got broke in , because when I put the new rad in I had rebuilt the engine. Now after the 2nd year when I brought it out for the summer season after sitting for about 7 mounts it seemed to run a bit hotter & then hotter & then finally it would overheat if I got into traffic or in slower traffic. I couldn't let it sit for more then just a few min's without it going into boiling temps. Now with this new one & it look to be a great rad. as the welds are very good & the tanks seem to be very thick. I cost only a little & I hope it holds up, but if not I can buy another for the cost of 1 of the last one & I bought that 7 years ago. SO.... Maybe it was just to thick but it is all good now & I thank the new rad. for that.

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