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#1
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Wrinkle Finish for Steering wheel hub.
Hi guys, is any one restoring the hub behind the formula wheel with the correct wrinkle finish. I remember awhile back someone was doing this for members.
Any help is appreciated. |
#2
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Formulabruce was and I am actually waiting to send him a couple. Maybe you can ping him and see if is now able to do some again.
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#3
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Yes I just received a pm from him.
Thanks Jon |
The Following User Says Thank You to jonra3 For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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Im.waiting too
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#5
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Bruce restored my steering wheel collar about a year ago. Awesome job!
Steve |
#6
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Yes, I had Bruce do 5 for me....They are all perfect...Sent him really good cores though....Early ones are slightly different than later...If I remember it is not a noticeable different once installed...
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#7
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FYI for those wanting to do this themselves- The wrinkle paint is pretty common from most brands and is not difficult to apply. Ive done at least 7 or 8 of these using Krylon & VHT wrinkle paints. Directions are on the can, with uniform heat like sitting in the sun for an hour or 2 or a heat gun or oven if you have one to use for paint/powder coat curing you can get very good results.
However if another person is offering the service with good results then thats an easier option but it can be done DIY for about $10 in paint the paint to match your interior if not black. |
#8
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Anyone have a pic of what’s considered “correct” wrinkle finish? I had the hub from my car and a spare that each had a particular finish. I refinished both with good results but it’s not exactly the same so what’s considered correct? Pics below.
Also for the record I used the same method 78w72 described with a heat gun for the best results.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
The Following User Says Thank You to bhill86 For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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Ive seen the amount of wrinkle finish vary on different year firebirds, I have a lower mile 29k, bought at 24k 1981 pace car and the wrinkle finish is very light compared to my originals on a 50k mile 78 TA.
Ive owned just short of 50 of these cars over recent years, all in varying condition and the amount of texture varies. I think a tighter & not too aggressive texture is correct for most these cars, too much wrinkle doesnt match waht Ive seen but if its done evenly almost any amount will look good & far better than most collars that have degraded or flaked off over the years. I will try to find or get pics of the originals on my cars. The last 2 pics of bhills looks very good, not too heavy and very even. Edit- just found a pic of one of the lowest mile original 78 TA's out there, this pics is from a local to me 5000 original miles TA, the texture is heavier than most Ive seen and far more than my 81... so I think its safe to say the amounts varied over the years and there is no "correct" amount. Last edited by 78w72; 07-31-2024 at 12:42 PM. |
#10
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I take my collars to a local powder coating company. They have a black wrinkle finish that is spot on and they look NOS when done. Cost was $50.00.
Look up a reputable company that does powder coating and show them what you need. It will perfect
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Atoll Blue, Blue interior, 1970 RAIV Judge/4 spd/ 3.90/ pwr steering/ pwr brakes/ hoodtach/ gauges/ sport wheel/ console/ remote mirror/tinted glass. Starlight Black, Camel Tan interior, 1978 Trans Am . Auto/AC/door edge guards/ am/fm, Cassette stereo/ floor mats frt and rear/Hurst Hatches Cameo White, Blue interior, 1971 Trans Am/4spd/ Am/Fm/ power windows / AC. 28,000 original miles |
#11
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A durable long lasting coating only works with proper prep, and once it's cleaned, bead blasted, and needs work, the powder coater is done, and the blems show. I have a lot of pics of early collars that needed a lot if body work ( factory defects due to process. These hold no electrical charge and can't be powder coated like normal and take more time, and a different process. If you have a 69 - 72 hub chances are it needs more work than you may see.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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hubs
Quote:
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ramairnacho For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Middle of Sept looks do able. I have a set up I move into shop which is in one of my containers. Trying to get a buddies 70 formula finished and it's been a challenge with the glass not being curved enough. .. I have not forgotten about these.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#14
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glass
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thank you |
#15
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There’s a very good write up over at TAC concerning aftermarket glass and which ones fit and which don’t. I believe auto city classic is one people like. Just FYI
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
The Following User Says Thank You to bhill86 For This Useful Post: | ||
#16
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Great to hear you'll do another run I'm in
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1970 RAIII white/blue |
The Following User Says Thank You to RamAirPwr For This Useful Post: | ||
#17
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How about a photo of a “formulabruce” finished product too please.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
#18
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to necdb3 For This Useful Post: | ||
#19
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Prep is everything. I gave up on vht long ago. If you have nice collars and want to try it, I think all should. What I do, I make no money on, just do it to help the hobby.
What I do has Uv protection. If you have a 69-72 ish collar it may not be so nice once it's cleaned.. for a paint job.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#20
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I’ve done many over the years. I’ve tried many different brands of paint and have always had the best result using the Eastwood brand.
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