[Ozzmann]

Anybody have and comments or feedback on one of these. Looks like a good buy.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydroboos...item3a73cea4c0

[Ollie]

Hydroboost is a good system especially if running a big cam. A number of forum members have it on their cars.
There was a big discussion a while back, do a forum search.
if you can scrounge the junk yard it can be done for considerably less than $600.00

[Nicks67GTO]

I think Hydratech is supposed to be the cats meow. The thing I saw on there that cought my attention was .......$160.00 FOR SHIPPING???!!! WOW!!

[FrankieT/A]

Got mine out of an Astrovan and bought the other parts from Hydrotech. I have less than $200.00 in mine. But, Hydrotech doesn't like to sell parts only, just complete systems.

[Old Goat 67]

I'd be leery of a junkyard unit, especially where this is at.
Mine was a rebuilt unit from a 83 Chevy 2500 series truck, perfect fit to my 78 Firebird master unit. $175 with brand new Delco lines included.

Stops line trunk monkey throwing out an anchor! If you want to stop that fast.

Charles

[GT182]

Now remember this if you don't have one on the car.... you'll need a power steering unit to run it.

[Ozzmann]

The thing I saw on there that cought my attention was .......$160.00 FOR SHIPPING???!!! WOW!!

Yes the joys of living down under!

Hydroboost is a good system especially if running a big cam

I'm not running a big cam, but my engine combo only makes around 10-12inches of vacuum at idle and my booster just doesn't work well.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by Ozzmann

Yes the joys of living down under!

I'm not running a big cam, but my engine combo only makes around 10-12inches of vacuum at idle and my booster just doesn't work well.

A 1985-87 S10 dual 9" booster will work with that low of vacuum.

[73GPSteve]

I used a hydroboost unit out of a mustang in a BMW that had a LS1 in it. Worked great, paid $150 for the unit and had the lines made at a hydraulic line shop for another $150.

[Don 79 TA]

Q about this..
This Hyrdaboost has caught me eye
right now i run a CVR vacuum pump into a smaller booster
i'd like to get better bite on the brakes (aka shorten the stopping distance)
I have SBC dual piston calipers upfront with their slotted/drilled rotors and 11" ford drums on the 9" rear
i know it's way heavier than my wifes vette and our accord, but i'd like to have better braking than what it is. I sometimes have to remind myself it's not the 2011 accord or 05 vette so it wont stop on the dime, but if i went with the hyrdaboost setup, would it help or would i be better off looking at a brake upgrade? that i know will come at an expense and possibly need to change wheels (i'm kinnda fond of the 15" rim look on older cars, and not really into larger rims, just a personal taste)

[Old Goat 67]

Don,

Having done this on my 67 GTO that originally had drums and was converted to 78 Firebird tall spindle disks up front, I was never fully satisfied with the stopping power even with the front disks. Much better with the disks up front, but not anything to write home about.

In deciding to try this, I wanted to make sure that any improvement would be attributable to only one thing being done. Carefully unbolting the master from the vacuum booster, and moving it forward just enough to remove the vacuum booster without disturbing any hydraulic lines, I proceeded to put the Hydroboost in place and plumbing the lines and brake pedal rod. Then I reattached the master and went to test it.

The difference was so dramatic that I still marvel about the braking system every time I drive it. Can it "stop on a dime", YES. The confidence level is I have is what I find difficult to put into words. Second opinions are available here from "GT182" (66 GTO w/drums), "hottrodd" (67 GTO w/ factory disks), & "rockdoc" (67 GTO w/factory disks) who have all driven my car since the Hydroboost was added.

Keep in mind that I still retain the 9" drums in the rear and have a brand new set of brackets and rear calipers sitting on the shelf. No need for them.
I did go to 15" wheels also in finishing up the car.

What you have for brakes now should be totally adequate, I would tell you to do just one thing and then make other changes if you decide too.

Charles

[GT182]

Don, if you have to stop in a big hurry, all I can say is, you'd better hang on and have your seatbelt on with hydroboost. And that's a fact Jack! I've driven Charles' GTO.

Ask Charles about his grandson driving the GTO, and him sitting in the passenger's seat, when he'd hit the brakes. LOL

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by GT182

Ask Charles about his grandson driving the GTO, and him sitting in the passenger's seat, when he'd hit the brakes. LOL

Full story is how I keep saying "BRAKE CHECK TIME" , while he was driving!

[Don 79 TA]

Thanks guys
i looked at the larger brake upgrade kits, and they aren't expensive and the draw back is needing a larger wheel
since i have redone everything a few years ago, i'd prefer to just replace the master and have better stopping power
i'll add that to the list of upgrades for the car now
I'm using the SSBC aluminum mastercyl and i gather that should fit, as you said, just unbolt the master, wiggle enough room, replace the booster

if it can feel like it will have the stopping power like the Accord, i'd be one happy camper
with today's traffic/drivers/nutz on the road, when i drive the TA, it's ummmmm sorta scary at times.

[Old Goat 67]

Here's a link that I watched countless times before I started. It will help you understand a lot of things.
Multiple videos.

http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/125/73/

[LATECH]

I grabbed a salvage yard Hydro boost from a 87 c-2500 with a 6.2 diesel.
I installed it on a 1970 Impala with a 502 crate motor. I got everything (pulled it myself) for 150 bucks. Hardly had to buy anything as I grabbed EVERYTHING , lines pump , booster, cooler ...etc .
Practically everything bolted right on. Easy breezy.
You will wanna grab the pump as the canister has the dual return line setup allready on it. Plus if replacing the pump, use the pressure valve from the hydra boost pump as it is allready adjusted for the higher pressure necessary to run the steering and the booster. Good luck.

[5eyedshrimp]

I am looking at getting hydroboost set up for my car, but what concerns me is how hard would it be to stop a car doing over 100mph in the quarter mile when you loose the power stearing belt! Is it just like manual brakes. Its a street car but I will take it to the track a few times.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 5eyedshrimp

I am looking at getting hydroboost set up for my car, but what concerns me is how hard would it be to stop a car doing over 100mph in the quarter mile when you loose the power stearing belt! Is it just like manual brakes. Its a street car but I will take it to the track a few times.

About the same situation if your engine goes at that speed, no vacuum= manual brakes, throw a power steering belt= manual breaks, press hard and white knuckle it.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by 5eyedshrimp

I am looking at getting hydroboost set up for my car, but what concerns me is how hard would it be to stop a car doing over 100mph in the quarter mile when you loose the power stearing belt! Is it just like manual brakes. Its a street car but I will take it to the track a few times.

That's what the accumulator cylinder is for. Stores pressure for brake application with engine off. When that's expended, manual action takes over.
Pretty much the same as a vacuum unit.

[5eyedshrimp]

Thanks for the info guys,that helps out alot. I had a electric vacuum pump on my old car to help me stop but I didnt like how much noise it made. Thanks.