[Deadhead]

If you were ever going to go to factory air, that would be the time to do it. It would be a whole lot easier with the clip off. Getting to the valves etc. later is a royal PITA.

[65WJ]

the proverbial can of worms.
Keep it simple.
Write down your goals and a time frame.
You could very easy make this a 2 or 3 year project.
IMO
Step 1. collect all the parts you will need
Step 2 Rebuild YJ 421. Have all the seals replaced in the TH-400.
While the engine is being rebuilt you could pull the front suspension, have it sandblasted and repaint. Installe new bushings. springs, shocks, ball joints, inner outer tie rods.
Installe nice and pretty front suspension.
Replace the rear bushings and springs and shocks. The rear is alot easier than the front.
Installe 421 and TH-400
connect hoses, wires and linkage,
Fire it up and drive it(carefully) to the alignment shop
Enjoy driving.

simple enought eh?
Or you could remove the front clip. Modify the firewall to accept the factory A/C then complete above plus some interior dash work.

Patrick

[nmoreilly]

How about using a newer aftermarket AC system with the factory side vents and an underdash center section, I know its not ideal from an aesthetics point of view. Is it possible to use the factory indash controls with an afetermarket unit?

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by nmoreilly

How about using a newer aftermarket AC system with the factory side vents and an underdash center section, I know its not ideal from an aesthetics point of view. Is it possible to use the factory indash controls with an afetermarket unit?

64 cat dropotop has done this on a '66. He will know the best way. They cut the vents in the corner of the dash.

My only thing was that if you EVER want to do it with factory stuff the time is with the clip off. Replacing fan motor etc. is so much easier that it does not even compare.

I agree with Patrick. With a plan you can't fail. It is just what you want that matters.

[nmoreilly]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

64 cat dropotop has done this on a '66. He will know the best way. They cut the vents in the corner of the dash.

My only thing was that if you EVER want to do it with factory stuff the time is with the clip off. Replacing fan motor etc. is so much easier that it does not even compare.

I agree with Patrick. With a plan you can't fail. It is just what you want that matters.

I hear you and I would perfer the factory air for the obvious reasons. I am concerned about the potential cost having to restore the compressor, evaporator, getting everything to look nice and just trying to have a list of alternatives

[65WJ]

Here is the link Bruce talked about.


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=584816

rons health has slowed him down alot. You might send him a pm however it may take a few days for him to respond.

patrick

[Rapdron]

You already have everything you need to install "Factory" A/C into your present car.
Other than cutting and welding the firewall, everything else lines up perfectly.
GM in their wisdom back then planned for every car to have every option.
Every where you will need to drill a screw or bolt hole, GM put a dimple. or a small depression where things are mounted. Even the relays in the center of the firewall have the screw holes lined up. They really planned ahead back then!
If nothing else, change over the firewall and use the inner and outer heater boxes from the 4 dr. car. You also need to swap out the vents in both kick panels with the ones from the A/C car. Believe me, it's easier than it sounds.
If I could do it, never having cut or welded a firewall before, you can too.
Every place you cut and weld will eventually be covered by the heater boxes.
A little seam sealer and some black spray will hide a lot of sins.
Unless some one gets real pickey, you can't tell once everything is bolted back together.

There is no better time to do this, if you want real factory A/C, than while you have the motor and front clip off your car.
Getting to all the bolts once the inner fenders and motor is installed is definitely A PITA
My 2 cents
Pm me if I can help.
I just did this last year

Ron

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by nmoreilly

I hear you and I would perfer the factory air for the obvious reasons. I am concerned about the potential cost having to restore the compressor, evaporator, getting everything to look nice and just trying to have a list of alternatives

You will likely have to buy all that for the new stuff too. The compressors are avail for about $300 I think. I bought an evap and valve for $129 though it has been a while.

I think you could also rebuild the Comp. yourself as long as it is not locked up. When you pull the head off you can tell if the cylinders have been burned or if it is in good shape. I have taken one apart & there is not really that much too it.

[LASJayhawk]

nmoreilly.

Most A6 compressors are good the most common failure is the clutch bearing going bad. Figure 30 for the bearing and 60 for the tools to change it.

If the 4 door brougham will run I would strongly advise to check the vacuum lines for cracks where they attach and then take it out for it's last drive.

That way you can check out things like the electro-cruse to see if those systems work. Then just be careful about taking the stuff out whole, as you might find a ton of value in accessories in complete working condition, if they aren't in your plans.

[nmoreilly]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

You will likely have to buy all that for the new stuff too. The compressors are avail for about $300 I think. I bought an evap and valve for $129 though it has been a while.

I think you could also rebuild the Comp. yourself as long as it is not locked up. When you pull the head off you can tell if the cylinders have been burned or if it is in good shape. I have taken one apart & there is not really that much too it.

The compressor works apprently. Anyone have a ball park estimate of what it might cost for parts, getting the appearance on compressor correct an getting everything up and running in the car? Also, keep in mond the top dash pad on this car is trashed

[Deadhead]

I think there is a guy that sells the compressors done on E-Bay. That will give you an idea of max price. The only other parts other than the clutch mentioned above are the 'O' ring seal kits, which are so inexpensive it is not even worth including in your budget. The sticker will cost as much as that.

The dash pad will run you $800 minimum.

[65WJ]

if you could post some more pictures of the car when it arrives and keep us posted on the transformation.

patrick

[Ragtop Man]

The heads are really the same, for all intents and purposes, might be a few cc in the chambers and a different valvespring, but that's it.

Later heads are much better, but D-ports can be ported to match off the shelf late model heads, depends on how much of a resto motor you want to build.

[Indian Fixer]

Looks like I'll be helping out on this project. The incredible hulk arrived this morning and work will begin on Monday. Pull the 421, take a look inside, then get a plan.......

Some pics of the 421 tri-power and other Pontiacs I've done.

Greg

[stevep]

Take a lot of detailed pictures of the Bonneville before you cut it up!

[65WJ]

this is the first cruise control tri-power car I have seen. could you post pictures of the linkage of the center carb?
Also since this is an AC does it have the vapor return line? It will appear to be a fuel filter but it is not. I see a partial tube with a bend right behind the alternator. That is where is would be.
many thanks if you could

patrick

[65WJ]

Originally Posted by Indian Fixer

Looks like I'll be helping out on this project. The incredible hulk arrived this morning and work will begin on Monday. Pull the 421, take a look inside, then get a plan.......

Some pics of the 421 tri-power and other Pontiacs I've done.

Greg

Beautifull 57. Is that a before and after of the 67?

patrick

[Indian Fixer]

Yes, that is the '67 Bonne pretty much stripped down. It was pretty decent old car going in with some rust patches on the quarters but good floors. The 400 was pretty well worn out so we did a 455" +.030" with a mild cam and Edelbrock 750 carb and HEI.

Some pics of the tri-power. I tried to catch all the angles but if missed something I'll shoot more.

[Deadhead]

Fixer (great handle by the way),

Thanks for posting those. I have never seen this combination either.

All I have to say is: can you all picture what this would have been like with the original vacuum secondaries and the electrocruise? I love the beaded chain. Only someone born with a golden horseshoe up their... could have been expected to troubleshoot that bad boy.

Can someone confirm if the mechanical linkage that is on the car from a 4 speed set-up or aftermarket? Just curious since I have one that was converted as well.

Keep us posted with Pics along the way. That Bonneville came out really nice.

Thanks.

[65WJ]

really cool pictures thank you for sharing.
It appears that the fuel filter has the vacuum return line built in. Unlike mine, the fuel filter is in the carb.
I see the return spring for the cruise control. I will have to check to see if I have this.
Is the power brake pulling vacuum from the front carb?
I find this fascinating. I really hope you transfer the cruise over to the other car.

Steve Snyder has a descent 67 convertible. Seem solid. could be a nice project.
you can visit his site at www.indianapontiacs.com

looking forward to your progress on one very unique and totally cool 66.

patrick