[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by tom s

I would start with Fabcraft.Tom

Call Dave at fabcraft today and talked about my ring gear. He told me the ring gear off my Rotomatic auto flywheel will work on my Standard flywheel. He tells everyone that changes over to manual from auto to send their flywheel and they use that ring gear.

Also dropped everything off to the machine shop today. Should know something this time next week. Fingers crossed!!

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by Jeffs64Cat

Ok everyone I'm feeling a bit stupid right about now. The ring gear is facing toward the rear of the car. It's not close to the crankshaft. There is champer on the side that slides on first. I grabbed the old rotomatic one and matched the holes up then noticed the champer on that one.

Now that that's solved now the ring gear has about two inches of the teeth that looks like they are worn down so look like I'll be changing that before assembly.

Anyone know where I should buy one??

Removed interior and dash today. Taking interior to upholstery shop tomorrow. No rust on floor pans. Waiting on carpet and sound barrier ordered two months ago from Opgi. Still on back order

[Jeffs64Cat]

Updates

Machine shop called and pre boring shows .030 will clean up all cylinders. So with the engine kit and heads reworked. Estimated 1800.00.

Heads will get new valves, new guides, new springs..

Ordering Hylift Johnson lifters and a melling 068 grind cam.

Interior going to upholstery shop next week.

I'm working on the inside of the car. Getting clutch assembly installed as much as I can and mounting shifter porch.

I have a question on the porch mounting. Since these car were designed for a t-10 will the Gto M-20 Muncie shifter location be the same? Only want to cut once.

Anyone know a easy way to measure where the clutch rod location through the firewall should be or is all that a guessing game?

Instructions for fabcraft aren't the good.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Jeffs64Cat

Updates

Machine shop called and pre boring shows .030 will clean up all cylinders. So with the engine kit and heads reworked. Estimated 1800.00.

Heads will get new valves, new guides, new springs..

Ordering Hylift Johnson lifters and a melling 068 grind cam.

Interior going to upholstery shop next week.

I'm working on the inside of the car. Getting clutch assembly installed as much as I can and mounting shifter porch.

I have a question on the porch mounting. Since these car were designed for a t-10 will the Gto M-20 Muncie shifter location be the same? Only want to cut once.

Anyone know a easy way to measure where the clutch rod location through the firewall should be or is all that a guessing game?

Instructions for fabcraft aren't the good.

Contact Les at Pontiac Paridise....he's done a lot of conversions

[tom s]

T-10s and muncie with the std length tail shafts are in the same location.Make sure you get 1 pc valves!I think there is a plug in the firewall where the clutch rod goes thru.Tom

[tom s]

OPG does not stock a lot of big car stuff.Ames is WAY better!Tom

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Contact Les at Pontiac Paridise....he's done a lot of conversions

Yes I've talked to Les there before. He charges a fee to place the two plates in a gig and machines the hole. I think his fee is 70.00. There's got to be a way the budget minded people can do it with paying that kind of price. Also Les doesn't recommend a Muncie he done all t-10 or St-10 installs

Tom, when I take the machine shop money this week I'll make sure they are one piece valves. The Muncie I have is from a 64 Gto so I'm thinking it's the correct tail housing.

[Stuart]

Don't know if you have an original shift porch or a reproduction (and if it is a repro, how well it's made) but the bottom of it should be shaped and have ridges on the bottom lip so that it pretty much locks into a single spot on the floorpan. If as Tom said the tailshafts are the same there should be no issue on its mounting location.

Note that there were four different shift porches available:, so make sure you have the right one for your project: Catalinas used one for bench seat cars and a second one for bucket seat cars, and then Bonnevilles used different ones for their bench seat and bucket seat cars since their floorpan was shaped differently.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by Stuart

Don't know if you have an original shift porch or a reproduction (and if it is a repro, how well it's made) but the bottom of it should be shaped and have ridges on the bottom lip so that it pretty much locks into a single spot on the floorpan. If as Tom said the tailshafts are the same there should be no issue on its mounting location.

Note that there were four different shift porches available:, so make sure you have the right one for your project: Catalinas used one for bench seat cars and a second one for bucket seat cars, and then Bonnevilles used different ones for their bench seat and bucket seat cars since their floorpan was shaped differently.

Hello Stuart, I brought a reproduction from Opgi and it locks into one location. Mine is for the bench seat also.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by Jeffs64Cat

I figured I'd begin to document my build here. I'm not a professional so this will be a learning experience for me.

Here's the story:
Wanted to update the thread. I took all the advice received and when that way. I decided to change the transmission to manual 4 speed Muncie and the motor will get a fresh rebuild with a 068 cam,4 bbl intake with a carter competition carburetor. Started building my parts inventory. Also took the advice of just driving it the way it is now and enjoying it. Put Hargerty insurance on it and antique plates. Got the brakes working correctly and took it for a test drive. Runs great! Plenty of power and shifts beautifully. But like all good things they come to a end. 30 minutes into my ride she shut off on me. Stopped on the side of road opened the hood to find gas all over the top of the carburetor and intake. Checked that everything was tight. Sat there a hour and it all evaporated. Trying starting it after about 10 minutes she started and no gas coming out of anywhere. So I headed for home to be safe. Got home and parked her in he spot and she stalled. Just let her sit for a few days. Then went out checked things over and started her again. She fired right up and ran great sitting there idling. Did this for a week. No gas blowing out. Running great. After about two weeks of making sure that no gas was blowing out I tried another test drive around the block. Ran great on the straight aways slowed down to make the turn to come home. She stalled out again opened the hood. And there was gas all over again. She never would start again. So towed her home. Decided just to start tearing her apart and do it right and take my time rebuilding her.

Now:
Finished my finished my 20X30 First time building a Garage. After a year of building it by myself with the help of my 72 year old father and girlfriend as my helpers.

Now with the inside of it done yesterday. I got the cat to run long enough to get her inside.

So the fun begins
Removing the interior and it's going to the upholstery shop
Ordered the carpet kit from Opgi but it on back ordered.

Parts I've purchased so far

64 Gto Muncie and shifter
64 flywheel and bell housing
64 rebuilt starter
64 rear transmission mount
61-64 four bbl intake
Carter competition carburetor
Speedometer cable
New clutch fork
Control arm bushings
Ball joints
Sway bars kit
Shifter porch Opgi
Fabcraft Trophy track posi
Fabcraft 9.3 3.64 Ring and Pinion gear set
Fabcraft master rear end rebuild kit
Axle bearings
Fabcraft rear end manual
Fabcraft 1963-1964 complete clutch pedal linkage assembly
1961-1964 clutch pedal support

I think that it for now. Not buying anything for the engine until it torn down and inspected.

Can someone tell me or show me a picture of the order the headliner rod go onto the car. Mine are rusted and no paint on ends. I didn't remove them. They were in the trunk.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Well started working on the tear down again. Pulled the rear end out. Was going to rebuild it myself but don't have the tools so found a shop to do the rebuild less than me buying the tools for a one time build.

Boy not use to the older cars! Pulled all the control arms bolts and nuts off and the shocks. Then the parking brake cables after backing the adjusters off to get the drums off. Let the jack down slowly and it just hung there. Then to find out back then coil springs are bolted to it also lol.

Then it came down with the jack.

Pics of rear end will be posted.

My question is about control arms my two lower have bends in the outside of them like someone jacked up the car there and bent them outwards. Where is the best place to get new better ones?? I'm replacing the springs too as they have blocks in them.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Pictures

[Marv]

Fabcraft sell upgraded rear control arms. Personally, unless the arm is bent along the length then I'd just beat the sides flat and weld some plate to the bottom to box them in.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Rear end is power washed and waiting to be taken to builder. (Waiting for funds too).

Looked at trailing arms. Lowers are bent and upper look great but want to change the bushings. Found bushing for 29.99 a piece. But with the lowers being bent it's looking like new upper and lowers. So who is the best to buy from? Now on to the next part

Fuel gauge was always reading full so went to check the ohms and the center was moving around in the unit.
So I need to buy a fuel sending unit. So is mine the 0-30 ohms one.

I was looking at Ames catolag and a 64 gas tank has the sending unit in the top. My tank has the sending unit in the front facing the back of the rear end which is for 65 and newer cars. So I'm lost.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Dropped the tank and removed the sending unit to find why it was reading full all the time. The flat wire that goes to the top of the unit was broken in too.

Did measure the ohms and mine is a 0-30 ohms unit. The sock was ripped too.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Did more work on the Teardown today. I've pulled the old 2" exhaust off the car. It was dual exhaust so took it off in a single shot. Rear coils are off and what an experience removing them!!! Rear lower trailing arms are off and no way to fix them as I said before someone jacked the car up onthem passenger side is tweaked and bent. Drivers side not as bad but going with new boxed ones from Pmt.

After laying on my creeper under the car looking at how I was going to clean and paint the frame. I've decided to remove the body and do it the correct way and blast the frame. I know this could be a pain in the ass job but can't see putting all this money into it without doing it right the first time. Been reading up on soaking the bolts with atf and acetone to loosen the rust.

Where is the best place to get a body mount kit for these cars?

Posting pictures for your enjoyment

[Jeffs64Cat]

More pictures

[Jeffs64Cat]

Well was going to pull body off frame and do it the right way. But one person job and not having the funds for the proper tools. Did the best I could with what I had. Cleaned up the frame and put a rust converter on it and then painted it black.

Started learning how to powder coat. So all my front end parts were sand blasted and cleaned and powder coated. They turned out great. A lot of pictures will follow.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Gas tank was cleaned out and new sending unit installed as other one was junk.

Powder coated a lot of parts. Powdered chrome isn’t as shiny as real but this is a budget project. I think things turned out great.

Now a lot of you may not like the engine color but I’m not a fan of blue for a engine color. This build I’ve changed the color of everything.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Intake manifold and timing cover cleaned and powder coated with red.

Misc engine brackets.

Brought a set of M/T valve covers from a member here. Sand blasted old paint off which took forever. And experienced around with two colors.