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#1
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Help! Removal of heater nipple still on car
I have changed this nipples in the past by popping them out using leverage. When I tried to pop it out the nipple broke at the base. So now I have the raised boss that is about 1/8” above the head and can’t get ahold of it. Plus it’s still on the car and was leaking, I believe it was rusted at the base so when I pried it it broke there.
Any ideas how to remove this now? Can I chisel it, it was knurled was unsure if original or cast iron or steel, if it makes a difference. Thanks |
#2
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Try a pilot bearing remover.
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#3
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I'd use a small screwdriver and start pounding it into the sides. Work your way around it. Eventually you'll have some room to get a needle nose plier in there to try to pull out. You want to be careful not to pound it down inside. Maybe in the center, push a wire with a good hook in case you need to pull it out.
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#4
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If there is any of the outer perimeter of its muffin top left I have used a small ball joint or tie rod separator to pop it out.
It helps to have the valve cover off to do it in this manor.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#5
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Along the same line, if you have an air chisel with the tie rod/ball joint adapter, a couple gentle burps with the gun will collapse what's left and it will come right out.
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#6
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Quote:
But not with the nipple completely broken off. Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#7
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You can also use a long and very very sharp chisel to split it vertically., or al least get it to collapse in on itself and move again which will let you then yank it out.
You need to remove the Dizzy cap to get a good perpendicular angle on it and be careful to not put too bad of a gouge in the bore in the head, but gasket maker can take care of that mishap once you allow it to set up overnight.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#8
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I do have the ball joint separator and an air chisel. Dizzy is out, probably remove the valve cover like Steve suggested. I am thinking of trying the air chisel with a couple of burps.
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#9
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My first engine had a broken off nipple after I installed the engine. A friend of mine who was a retired dealership mechanic (83 years old, started in 1957 at Ford) climbed in with a cold chisel, channel locks, and a ball peen hammer. He had it out in less than 5 minutes and didn't damage the head. It was truly a sight to behold watching someone who knew how to do it and made it happen. He said it wasn't the first he'd done like that...
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#10
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heck I still can't get the one out of a head thats bare...sitting on my bench!!!! Usually same as above...couple good whacks with a punch from the side and it collapses....not this beast ...
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#11
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On a couple of real real tuff ones that I have had to do with the nice benefit of the head beening off the car I first used a cut off disc to lob off the nipple, then I used a carbide course cutter to cut almost all the way thru the ID of the things wall down in the Bore , and then once that wall is paper thin one wack with a hammer and it breaks free.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#12
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This might be a stretch. If you can weld a bead on the inside of it, it will fall right out. I used to do that on wheel bearing races on lift trucks. Pretty amazing actually. Or weld a bolt to it and use a slide hammer.
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#13
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This thing not moving. I wonder if I can use a carbide burr from the inside and cut outward like Steve says but worried about the shavings. Can I stuff a rag down there deep enough in the head the pull it out after using needle nose pliers?
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#14
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Stuff in a wheel bearing laden cut off section of a shop or dish towel.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#15
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Wrap a piece of wire around a small magnet and drop it in the hole. The small shavings will stick to it. You can then also use it to fish more out after cleaning it off.
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#16
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Is the material able to be welded?
Maybe weld a piece of metal to the remaining piece so that you have leverage or something to add additional mechanical effort against.
Performed this method on a broken head bolt. Being careful not to damage surface, a washer was placed on the broken portion and welded. Then a bolt was welded to that. The broken bolt was easily removed with a wrench. |
#17
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I finally got it out with a pickle fork. It actually pierced it, hopefully I didn’t hurt anything.
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#18
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I used blue locktite to put the new one in, I read that it is ok to use this. It started cockeyed but finally straightened out. Hoping the blue locktite seals it.
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#19
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Glad ya got it out. Good idea as well.
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#20
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Yippie!
Good that you stuck it out! A friend of mine many years ago in a car club talked about giving award plack’s for overcoming certain repair jobs that where known to be Bear’s on all makes of cars. The removal of that nipple on a Pontiac with the head on the motor and in the car was one of them! And he new about how tuff it was even though he was a Buick guy!
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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