[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by AZ64GP

I'm breaking the engine down so I can take the block to the machine shop, and the heads to get done as well.

Engine is out of the car.

If this were in MY garage, I'd forget the torch, the penetrating oil, and the muriatic acid. In other situations, I'm happy to apply an oxy-acetelyne torch to seized/rusted fasteners to aid removal. In this case, I think it's a total waste of effort due to lack of access to the bolt shank.

I'd beat that head with a pry-bar on the intake, and on the exhaust side, until it was up high enough to be off the alignment dowels. It sounds like your nearly there already. Then spin the whole head counter-clockwise which should un-screw the broken bolt shank from the block threads. Once the head is off the block, the broken bolt will be much easier to deal with, potentially including putting the whole head into the "cooker" at the machine shop which heats it to several hundred degrees, then cooling the threads of the bolt some, and using a big nut and washers/spacers to pull the bolt shank from the head casting.

[erlindsey]

Try hoisting the engine up an inch or two. Using an old head bolt down in the hole of the broken/rusty head bolt. Take a big hammer and wack the hell out of the head bolt sticking out. Might just be enough to free it up.

[sdbob]

I've never had a bolt break. Tight yes. I'm curious how this will be solved. I wouldn't use a lot of force-time and 'message it'.

[pugslyx234]

I was thinking about this and maybe you could use those plastic wedges like one uses to split fire wood that way it wont marr the iron !!Put on one end and work them down the head it may take a couple of them of course p-blaster the problem bolt for a few days prior.

[Bill Eveland]

Vinegar and water solution would also help break down the rust but very slow. Is there any room around the bolt to work at the rust with a pic?

[Will]

Be careful with the muriatic acid, that stuff is REALLY strong. The fumes from it will destroy cloth and corrode metal near the container it's stored in if the container isn't air tight.

DO NOT try using an "easy out." Those things are very hard and also brittle, and it's easy to break them. Then you have to deal with a piece of hardened steel in the hole that can't be drilled. Been there, done that, don't use them any more.

[AZ64GP]

Originally Posted by Will

Be careful with the muriatic acid, that stuff is REALLY strong. The fumes from it will destroy cloth and corrode metal near the container it's stored in if the container isn't air tight.

DO NOT try using an "easy out." Those things are very hard and also brittle, and it's easy to break them. Then you have to deal with a piece of hardened steel in the hole that can't be drilled. Been there, done that, don't use them any more.

Will -

Thank you for the reply and the info, and thanks to everyone else to who has replied to my post. I appreciate the heads-up on the muriatic acid, and the easy-outs. I have some easy-outs that I was initially going to try, but after doing some research and hearing what was said in the replies, I figured that would probably not be a good idea. Easy-outs seem to be alright for removing bolts that are stripped or something like that, but not for something like this where the bolt is broken and extremely rusted in place. My plan for now is to keep squirting PB Blaster down the bolt hole everyday, like I have been, and I've also been spraying PB Blaster in the tiny gap between the head/gasket/engine block where the head has been stuck with rust. I'm going to use my large pry bar in the exhaust and intake ports on the head, and press up on them while whacking the pry bar with small sledgehammer (two person job). I have partially installed two of the head bolts (interior bolts near valves in the head), so the head doesn't go flying and onto my feet if I pop the head loose. I'm hoping I can get the head loose from the block enough that I can pass over the dowl pins and rotate the head off the broken bolt. If a week of spraying PB Blaster down the hole and trying to pop the head off the block for the second weekend doesn't help at all, then I think I'm going to take it to a place to EDM the broken bolt, or take the whole block and head to my machine shop and have him take care of it. I'll let you guys know how it turns out after I work on it again this weekend.


Chris

[NeighborsComplaint]

You could pull out all the stops so to speak ... rotate the motor upside down on the engine stand, remove the oil pan, remove the main and rod caps, remove the crank, pull the rods and pistons out the bottom and then drive the head off with a 4x4 down the bore and a sledge hammer. Support the block from below with 4x4s and leave a couple headbolts in loosely to catch the head when it comes loose. Crude yes, but it will get the job done.

[b-man]

I think the 'blue wrench' is what will do the job here.

Find a friend with a cutting torch setup and blow that broken bolt right out that hole, turning it into little molten blobs.

The cutting torch heat will be concentrated on the top of the broken bolt, get it red hot and then let the oxygen do the work.

The head casting itself won't absorb much heat during the process, after a few heat and cut cycles you should be able to get rid of enough of the bolt shank to lift the head off.

After you remove the head you can then blow what's left of the bolt out of the tapped hole in the block deck, the threads will remain intact.

Not for the faint of heart but for those who are used to handling an oxy-acetylene torch it's no big deal, use the proper eye, face and body protection of course.

[fasterfiero]

I must mention I have had great sucess with an air hammer/ air chisle. If you do not already have one, inexpensive 10-20 bucks, and have been invaluable as far as tools go. I have to think this is the way to go , I would consider hanging the whole setup an inch or two off the ground with the engine rotated so the head is on top and hang the works from the ends of the head ( as mentioned ) try the air chisle, even a little heat propane or mapp gas will help ...... keep any heat concentrated on the broken bolt.......

You may get some comfort knowing my old girl ( 67 tempest ) can be a real "bitch" sometimes, rather most of the time, I've been wrenching for 30 plus years and this tempest reminds me of being a teenager working on rusted up old camaros, be patient and you will get there......

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

pull the rods and pistons out the bottom

Ummm...planning to shatter the pistons, or the main webs?

[428GTO70]

If you had a big enough container to submerge it in water you could use Electrolysis to remove the rust from the block. Just need a tub, some water, Arm and Hammer laundry soda, a metal rod, and a battery charger. Actually works pretty cool. Follow the link below for a tutorial or search youtube for videos.
http://rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Ummm...planning to shatter the pistons, or the main webs?

Ummm ....No. The pistons come out with the rods don't they? How are they going to shatter? The bores are positioned between the main webs so how would sliding a wood block up the bore from below and hitting the end with a hammer shatter the main webs? Have you even seen the inside of a motor?

You pull the rods with the pistons attached and remove the crankshaft to get access to the bore and the combustion chamber (underside of the head). He is doing a rebuild anyway so just strip it down to the block and the stuck head.

With the crank out you are looking down 4 holes, you place a wood 4x4 or 2x4 down the bore contacting the head and closest to the broken head bolt. A couple raps with the hand held sledge hammer and the head will pop free damaging nothing. I had the same issue disassembling an old Ford 390. I broke a head bolt, it kinked the bolt shank and the head was stuck fast on the bolt. A blow torch will melt the cast iron around the bolt as fast as it melts the bolt and using and air chisel or metal wedge between the heads and deck will damage one or both machined surfaces. I sawed off the end of a broomstick and tapped the head free.

Here is a pic for you Schurkey, see all the room with the crankshaft out?

[428GTO70]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

You pull the rods with the pistons attached and remove the crankshaft to get access to the bore and the combustion chamber (underside of the head). He is doing a rebuild anyway so just strip it down to the block and the stuck head.

I think he is saying is that the pistons don't fit out the bottom side. The bores are above the mains on the edges.

[b-man]

The pistons won't come out from the bottom, take a little closer look and you'll see why. You can only remove them with the head off of the block from the top side.

[cuz68]

Take it out side chain it to a tree, Hook a chain around the head and to your truck yank the jell out of it.

[fasterfiero]

"Take it out side chain it to a tree, Hook a chain around the head and to your truck yank the jell out of it."

Now thats very funny, reminds me of a couple friends.......

[sdbob]

The older I get the more 'I try to think' cause effect I wouldn't want to damage parts.Worst case -home-grind bolt out slowly.Blow vac out rust each day. You'll get it ,one day you'll look back on it as learning exp.EDM I've seen work.

[BruceWilkie]

Pull the crank... dont worry about pistons unless you had planned to save them. You should be able to use wood in the rod fork and the piston will hit the head when you hammer on the wood. Might take awhile and you may need to replace the wood after a bit. the rod pin and piston may or may not get hurt.

[pugslyx234]

Wow that thing is rusty