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#1
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Drip Rails and Vinyl roofs
I have done some searching but really cannot find a straight answer. With the reproduced roof drip rails, it will often specify with vinyl roof or without. What was the difference with the drip rail?
I intend to add my drip rail back with the stainless reproduction, even though I have a 72 which probably had the chrome plastic originally. My car also USED to have a vinyl roof, but that was removed. I am good to go with the stainless version that came on the earlier years?
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I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
#2
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The vinyl will go into the drip channel and up the other side a slight amount and the drip rail trim will go over the vinyl slightly .. so the opening in the vinyl top trim is slightly larger.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#3
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My 72 is stainless, but its an early one. You will be fine with it. Fitting Any drip rail on a vinyl roof car is tough, especially if its not super flat and really glued down in the gutter
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Might have. I am not sure. I just ran across old posts where people said they had the plastic ones on a 72. But they may have been added later.
I'd rather have the stainless ones anyway. I don't think I've ever found an fbody in the junkyard that has the plastic rails so I guess they were destroyed by the sun or didn't hold on well.
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I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
#6
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The plastic ones lost their shine and would remove them selves when driving at highways speeds...
In 76 or 77 they started using an anodized aluminum one...which also faded...but were screwed on....so they stayed on the car... I think alot of the plastic ones were dealer installed... |
#7
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After getting the weather strip channel out, it was obvious that my 72 had a metal drip rail originally. The OER reproduction stainless steel ones look great but took some massaging to fit right, but not too bad.
This is the first time I have driven a 2nd gen with drip rails installed and I have a had a few 2nd gens over the years. There is a new wind noise at about 70 MPH, not crazy loud, but I guess it's the wind hitting the rails. I have been daily driving it again, and the other day I got caught in some light rain going to work. The rain had stopped by the time I got to work but when I parked and got out, I was met with a nice down pour of rain from the roof. That is when I decided I should have drip rails. So I'd bet you are right about dealers adding the plastic ones. Now I am adding back all the Esprit trim, well most, I don't want to deal with a vinyl roof again although I like the look.
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I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
#8
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I'm in the Pacific North -wet.....and 98% of the the 2nd gen F-cars I've observed up here...in the past 40 plus years have roof drips on them.
They do look good...and better than wet-knee.....every time you open doors or windows. |
#9
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When installing a drip rail make SURE you put a BIG GOB of 3m strip caulk at the inside top of the A pillar where a cave exists at a welding joint. Behind both pieces, the seal holder , and the gutter ( which goes on first) I have seen many many cars LEAK, and leak BAD in this area. This runs down the inside of the a pillar under the kick panel upper "leg" and down to your floor. the drip rail should have gray strip caulk its whole length anyway, but the top of the A pillar is of very special concern.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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Thanks Bruce! Looks like I will have to take it apart again and seal it up as I installed the gutter without any sealant. When you say top of the A pillar are you talking about where the blow-out clip is at? I noticed that there was a hole, about 5/16" diameter and another further back in the roof area, they looked to be an alignment hole with the seal holder, should all that be sealed?
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I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
#11
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This pic is pass side top of A pillar. There is "some" seam sealer in place, however, if you dry fit the gutter, you will see the gap easily with a small light.
The Radius of the chrome drip molding Matches the A pillar and roof Exterior line, NOT the inside radius of the body attaching area.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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Got it. I just ordered some more 3m strip caulk. Thanks for the picture! Does the vertical trim and seal holder on the c-pillar get sealed too?
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I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
#13
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The actual seal holder had a black seal on it new, which may be in good enough shape to reuse. Rain isnt getting in that far if the gutter is done right, its just to tighten up any wind noise .. good luck. I had a new 77 at the dealer that leaked and had it apart 3 times till I figured it out. As a teen, I should have know it ALL though hehe
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#14
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78 Firebird body Seam sealing scans7 by Ben, on Flickr
78 Firebird body Seam sealing scans8 by Ben, on Flickr |
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#15
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Thanks for all the help guys. I just finished sealing it all up with the 3m strips. I found the weld point/dip at the top of the A-pillar and put a bunch in that area. It should be water tight now. That felt like seal on the seal holder was in great shape too.
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I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
The Following User Says Thank You to fbody_mike For This Useful Post: | ||
#16
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By the way, after adding the strip caulk to the drip rail the slight wind noise at 70 mph is gone.
__________________
I built it one piece at a time and it cost me more than a dime. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to fbody_mike For This Useful Post: | ||
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