[fyrffytr1]

what is the latest on the one piece trunk pan for the 67 GTO?

[salem1912]

Yeah, what he said whats the latest?

[wmhjr]

I don't know if it's Goodmark or not. If it is, I wouldn't hold my breath. I heard recently that Goodmark declined to renew their license with GM and I know they are concentrating a lot more on MOPAR parts. I talked to them last week, and it was not a good conversation. I'm not aware of any new parts for 64-67 A-Bodies being released. The term "on hold" was used a lot during the discussion.

[Ed at PY]

PY now carries one, it is made by Dynacorn Industries and the price is $375.00. PY's part # is RPI281F.

[wmhjr]

Now that's interesting. I talked to PY today - about 4 hours ago and was told that there was NOT a one piece trunk pan for a '66/67. What's up with that?

I did a search on that part number and nothing came up on PY online sales.

[dm_fan]

It looks like Ed misread your post and gave you some wrong information, so we fired him... jk

RPI281F is a full interior floor, not the trunk floor.

We carry RPT12F which is a 1 piece trunk floor for 1968-69 ($449.00/ea).
RPT10 is the only trunk floor we offer for 1964-67 and it includes 3 floor pieces plus gas tank & body braces ($360.00/kit).

Steve

[wmhjr]

Aw, don't fire Ed! Bring back Ed!

No problem about this. I'm just glad I wasn't missing something. It happens all too often...

[Ed at PY]

Ooops sorry guys, Steve was right i misread the post.

[Retlaw66]

1 piece trunk floors are now listed.... Do you stock them, or are they drop shipped?
What would price be if I picked up in Hatfield?

[dm_fan]

RPT10F is our part number for 1964-67 1-piece trunk floor.



It looks like we usually stock these but the last one we had in stock sold last week. Because we are gearing up for our warehouse move, I'm guessing that our purchasing manager is going to hold off his order for more stock until after our move in Feb 2010.
If you call in and place an order, we will definitely order one in for you and you can pick it up after it arrives.
The price is $599.00 + 6% PA sales tax if you pick it up but call in and check with a sales rep, there may be other discounts that apply.

Steve

[Retlaw66]

Thanks Steve. It's for a future project, no rush. But my buddy needs one now.
May I ask where your new warehouse will be?
Hopefully not too far from Hatfield, as you're a short drive from me in Doylestown.

[dm_fan]

We're still going to be in Hatfield, just a few miles down the road. We are going to be right next to the new Lowes they built on Old fourtyfoot Road. Right near Hatfield Meats.
It probably adds another 5 minutes to your trip from Doylestown.
The move will be final in the First week in Feb. 2010. Until then you can still pickup at our Bergey Road address.

Steve

[Too Many Projects]

Originally Posted by dm_fan

RPT10F is our part number for 1964-67 1-piece trunk floor.



It looks like we usually stock these but the last one we had in stock sold last week. Because we are gearing up for our warehouse move, I'm guessing that our purchasing manager is going to hold off his order for more stock until after our move in Feb 2010.
If you call in and place an order, we will definitely order one in for you and you can pick it up after it arrives.
The price is $599.00 + 6% PA sales tax if you pick it up but call in and check with a sales rep, there may be other discounts that apply.

Steve

This piece is actually made for a Buick but will work in our Pontiacs with proper modification. I see Tamraz in Chicago advertising a new trunk floor built just for the 66-67 Pontiac A bodies with no mods needed. Any idea who is making this and availability ?

[Ed at PY]

The new 66-7 trunk floor is being made by Dynacorn Industries and will be our part # RPT10F1 and it is supposed to be available in early 2010.

[Too Many Projects]

Originally Posted by Ed at PY

The new 66-7 trunk floor is being made by Dynacorn Industries and will be our part # RPT10F1 and it is supposed to be available in early 2010.

Cool............so now that brings us back to the eternal question of does Dynacorn get their parts from the same manufacturer as Goodmark and will Goodmark have this too ?

[Ed at PY]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

Cool............so now that brings us back to the eternal question of does Dynacorn get their parts from the same manufacturer as Goodmark and will Goodmark have this too ?

Usually they get them from the same source, yes.

[hottrodd]

I have already installed the 1 piece trunk floor in my 67 gto, It fits awsome!!!!!! the only mos needed is at the tail light ass. it is shaped differnet than the gto, I just just a flat seam 5" forward of the tail light ass.. the area where I spliced it is right in the middle of the rear (5th) cross brace, so It is impossible to see from outside the car!!!. on the inside of the trunk it is butt welded together; I then ground the weld down flat & leaded the seam.(you can use plastic filler instead).
the weld seam is 100% unnoticable, all the other sides of the trunk floor place were spot welded in, like the factory did. This is a excellent fitting piece!!!!

one last note!!, You will NOT be able to drop the panel into the "trunk" area by opening the trunk lid! You will ALSO have to remove/replace the tailpan (which I did replace). the only other way, it may be possible to install.... is from the bottom side of the trunk, if the body is not on the frame!.(I would not reccommand doing it this way!,)

IMO it is better installing the panel while the car is still on the frame, and u have the body bushings in place, to make sure that the planel is installed correctly.

good luck with the panel !!!! It is a great item!!!

[Too Many Projects]

Originally Posted by hottrodd

I have already installed the 1 piece trunk floor in my 67 gto, It fits awsome!!!!!! the only mos needed is at the tail light ass. it is shaped differnet than the gto, I just just a flat seam 5" forward of the tail light ass.. the area where I spliced it is right in the middle of the rear (5th) cross brace, so It is impossible to see from outside the car!!!. on the inside of the trunk it is butt welded together; I then ground the weld down flat & leaded the seam.(you can use plastic filler instead).
the weld seam is 100% unnoticable, all the other sides of the trunk floor place were spot welded in, like the factory did. This is a excellent fitting piece!!!!

one last note!!, You will NOT be able to drop the panel into the "trunk" area by opening the trunk lid! You will ALSO have to remove/replace the tailpan (which I did replace). the only other way, it may be possible to install.... is from the bottom side of the trunk, if the body is not on the frame!.(I would not reccommand doing it this way!,)

IMO it is better installing the panel while the car is still on the frame, and u have the body bushings in place, to make sure that the planel is installed correctly.

good luck with the panel !!!! It is a great item!!!

Good to hear it fits that well....
I will be installing mine from the bottom while on a roto. The frame on my car has already been patched together and the floor of a different car layed on top to hold the gas tank...
I'm REALLY curious about the body soldering part. I've been looking at the kits on Eastwood and am contemplating getting one. Is it as easy to use as they claim and did you have any trouble with warpage ?

[hottrodd]

I have been using lead for 15 plus years, on hard angles where i leaded in the trunk, wraping the metal is hard to do there where i did it. YES, you can definitaly wrap the metaL ON 1/4'S ETC. IF YOU DON'T WATCH THE HEAT. I do use plastic filler also. it is more practical, but in areas where it may flex, or banged on (like in a trunk edge) i will use the lead, if applyed correctly it will outlast plastic filler easily. I do get my lead thru eastwood.
after you get the hang of it leading, it is not that hard, the hard part is getting a feel for when the lead is just ready to turn to fuild & appling it. get a leading dvd from eastwood, or steve's auto restoration(hotrod builder), it will be a big help to you. get a junk fender, door & with some practice you should get the basics down.
JUST REMEMBER LEAD IS TOXIC!!! CAN CAUSE CANCER!! AND DEATH!! WEAR A OSHA APPROVED MASK , GLOVES, ETC. WHEN WORKING LEAD IF U WANT TO BE AROUND FOR A LOT OF YEARS!. NEVER USE A D.A., SANDER, ETC TO WORK DOWN LEAD, USE A VIXEN FILE.
(also I wouldn't use the lead-free stuff, the heat to melt it is twice as high a lead, WILL cuase wrapage)

[Too Many Projects]

Originally Posted by hottrodd

I have been using lead for 15 plus years, on hard angles where i leaded in the trunk, wraping the metal is hard to do there where i did it. YES, you can definitaly wrap the metaL ON 1/4'S ETC. IF YOU DON'T WATCH THE HEAT. I do use plastic filler also. it is more practical, but in areas where it may flex, or banged on (like in a trunk edge) i will use the lead, if applyed correctly it will outlast plastic filler easily. I do get my lead thru eastwood.
after you get the hang of it leading, it is not that hard, the hard part is getting a feel for when the lead is just ready to turn to fuild & appling it. get a leading dvd from eastwood, or steve's auto restoration(hotrod builder), it will be a big help to you. get a junk fender, door & with some practice you should get the basics down.
JUST REMEMBER LEAD IS TOXIC!!! CAN CAUSE CANCER!! AND DEATH!! WEAR A OSHA APPROVED MASK , GLOVES, ETC. WHEN WORKING LEAD IF U WANT TO BE AROUND FOR A LOT OF YEARS!. NEVER USE A D.A., SANDER, ETC TO WORK DOWN LEAD, USE A VIXEN FILE.
(also I wouldn't use the lead-free stuff, the heat to melt it is twice as high a lead, WILL cause warpage)usa2:

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll skip it, cause I was going to use the lead free stuff.... I'll stick to all-metal and plastic filler.