[GoatGlider]

i have a 65 GTO which is quite stock. the engine seems to be stock but rebuilt; it runs well and has plenty compression.

it has a non-stock TH 350 attached, which is ok for me. it works fine and has a standard pan and gets cooled by the built in cooler in the water-radiator.

only occasionally i have engine-cooling problems at hot weather and in traffic jam or steep (and sporty driven) mountain roads. it always takes quite a long time until the engine coolant goes up to 220 F. i can live with it. but i often take some steep and curvy mountain roads and it's fun to do this sporty. i never gave the transmission fluids temperature any notice.

currently i'm changing the transmission fluid. there were no recognizable "parts" at the bottom of the pan, but quite a dark swamp. may be the fluid was quite a time in that transmission... it looks normal to me.

as a first step i purchased a deeper pan for the TH 350 which gives it 2-3 quarts more fluid. well - i did not plan this, i liked the chromed pan and when i got it, it was - surprise - about 1" deepter than the stock one.

and since i have the fluid out and pan off (and also forgot to order a new filter, so i have to place an order anyway) i consider adding some more goodies. i've read occasionally that cooling the transmission fluid is important.

what would make sense:

- a more expensive "TCI racing" fluid filter?
- a fluid filter extension to lower the intake about 1/2" into the deepter pan?
- a second, remote mount fluid filter with more effecitve spin-on filter?
- an additional 12" x 7,5" fluid cooler to be mounted inline before the built in cooler? i could place this one beside the water cooler on the passenger side, but would have to cut out an appropriate piece of sheet metal there. it would not cover the water-radiator but support it in terms of cooling.

i have one question left about the deeper fluid-pan: did anyone ever had clearance problems towards the ground? will it scrap the street? it will be as deep as the exhaust pipes and they sometimes scrap - but further to the rear. can i assume that a steel pan will take some minor touch without leaking?

thank you guys for your appreciated comments!

[Bad Karma]

I run a 25,oooo lb gvwr tranny cooler on all my cars and trucks. In 20 years I havent had to replace a trans due to heat failure. 50$ cost me for the trans cooler, money well spent.

[Geoff]

A chrome pan is not a good idea. It keeps heat IN. You want to get heat OUT. Best to use an alum pan, or the stock steel pan painted black for best heat radiation. The alum pan is the best for heat radiation, but could crack & leak if you hit something on the road. A steel pan is unlikely to crack, but will deform & hopefully not leak.
The non metallic gunk in the pan is clutch material that collects after lots of miles & it is normal to see some.
By not using the cooling section in the bottom of the radiator & using a separate trans cooler, both your engine & trans will run cooler. The cooler trans temperatures also helps trans fluid life.

[Bad Karma]

I forgot to add yes, the deep sump aluminum pan is a great addition also. I bought one from summit that has teh summit name on it. It was like 100$ and is built like a tank! about 1 inch thick has 2 eqtra quart capacity.

[GoatGlider]

thanks. well, my steel pan is chromed only outside :-)

there is one question left: every text i've read so far tells me to place the fluid cooler in front of the radiator.

i figured out that i could place a 12" cooler beside the radiator on the passenger side, but a) i have to cut the good old metal there, b) all the manuals and people tell me that in front of radiator is better and c) 12" are only the smaller coolers available.

doesn't lower this the cooling capability of the radiator to have a hot fluid cooler in front???