[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

You painted the engine under the timing cover? The gasket surfaces and all the rest?

We should have known better, so next time we are in that area, we will sand off the paint under the Timing cover.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Formulas

...

Mikes reply:

Perhaps you can elaborate a little on why you attached multi-view of a fuel filter, I fail to grasp its meaning?

[Cliff R]

First pics I've seen of the timing set. Those are BOTTOM OF THE BARREL. Cast iron sprockets for one and unlikely it has the good true roller IWIS chain, they got the imitation Taiwan version made version instead.

I will not use those here, and have seen quite a few lower sprockets split at the keyway as with cast iron each place you put a keyway is potential place to start a crack (weak).

No wonder you had issues getting the cam dialed in. Lessons in humility await those who try to degree camshafts with that junk.....FWIW......

[242177P]

Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012

Mikes reply:

Perhaps you can elaborate a little on why you attached multi-view of a fuel filter, I fail to grasp its meaning?

Metal fuel filters be less multi-phasic harmonic
convergence force than glass do.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Sun Tuned

If metal in the head gasket potentially causes “Acoustic noise” …

I sure hope he doesn’t get around any Chevrolet engines that had factory steel shim gaskets.

Might need ear muffs for those…

Mikes reply:

Ironically, that is the type of gasket that we pulled from this Motor and the noise was not present at that time when it was installed in this Vehicle.

Also, so far as we can tell with the garage testing of this Motor, the recent complaint noise is gone. Road testing to come will tell us how it sounds under load conditions.

You said:

"I sure hope he doesn’t get around any Chevrolet engines that had factory steel shim gaskets".


Mikes reply:

I stated in a recent post: "that I thought that the reason we did not hear the noise through the old gasket, that we pulled, is because of its total metal content that had more surface area to clamp down and sandwich the gasket between the Head and Block. Just a theory to explain things, to get to the bottom of this last noise issue.

Apparently, the problem has been solved, we think at this time, so far in our testing.

The last thing we did was replace the Flexplate, so it stands to reason that it's out of round holes was the culprit after all and I may not have to rebuild the lower end of this motor yet. OfCourse this does not negate the other internal issues found by the forum. Which I am glad to be informed about, but saddened that they exist at all.

Like I said: Further Road testing is necessary to see how she does under load conditions.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Metal fuel filters be less multi-phasic harmonic
convergence force than glass do.

Mikes reply:

The fuel filter is not in the Engine, but you already knew that, unless you're just being facetious?

[rolling money pits]

Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012

We should have known better, so next time we are in that area, we will sand off the paint under the Timing cover.

You mean when the paint flakes off and clogs the OP screen?

I would avoid any abrasive material at that time, the suggestion of lacquer thinner or carb cleaner on a rag seems like a pretty solid idea.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

First pics I've seen of the timing set. Those are BOTTOM OF THE BARREL. Cast iron sprockets for one and unlikely it has the good true roller IWIS chain; they got the imitation Taiwan version made version instead.

I will not use those here, and have seen quite a few lower sprockets split at the keyway as with cast iron each place you put a keyway is potential place to start a crack (weak).

No wonder you had issues getting the cam dialed in. Lessons in humility await those who try to degree camshafts with that junk.....FWIW......

Mikes reply:

The original Timing Gear and Chain had three notches. I upgraded to the nine slots, I may have confused the forum saying it was four notches, but I am not doing the installation. Therefore, I forgot what it looked like, after it came out of the box, two years ago. The one in the 428 ci Motor today is from Comp Cams, I believe it has double chain, 4 advance and four retard and a zero setting in the middle?

Now that I have installed it at zero notch, the rest are not needed, however I am hard pressed to purchase another, since I have one in stock, that is like new.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by rolling money pits

You mean when the paint flakes off and clogs the OP screen?

I would avoid any abrasive material at that time, the suggestion of lacquer thinner or carb cleaner on a rag seems like a pretty solid idea.

Mikes reply:

Duly noted, we will use lacquer thinner, it is made to clean up paint by directions anyway! Thank you for the advice.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

X2!!!

I believe you're suggesting losing the cheap clear filter. I almost said that earlier. Trying to stay away from this train wreck. I was lucky as he!! that my car didn't burn to the ground because of one of those cheap POS!!! It came apart and doused my engine bay with gas. Thank God I had good spark plug wires!

Mikes reply:

We have made changes over the years, there is a new sock on the sending unit because the car sat with a new gas tank too long in the former owner's warehouse. The elec. fuel pump at the rear is lower than the tank. Then there is a fuel filter after the fuel pump that goes forward, the lines split forward, doubling the volume of fuel to the Carbs. At the Radiator mount on the P.S. is a hole for air to get to the remote oil filter and there is a fuel filter there and the two fuel lines merge to only one.

Fuel flows through the pressure gauge to the bypass filter (return to fuel tank) to Carbs. The one and only clear glass fuel filter at the gauge is to see if there is any water, dirt, air bubbles etc... However, since we installed the extra fuel line and bypass filter, there has been no boiling or percolation or vapor lock issues. Plus, we run the rec-89-90 Alcohol free fuel.

P.S. My glass filter is in a well-ventilated area, out front in the air stream and away from any heat and is checked whenever I run the Vehicle.

Thank you for the warning, the glass filter that I use has "o" - rings were the glass meats the metal in/out tapered fittings and are cleanable.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Formulas

You have to grind engine parts PRIOR to any assembly to dissipate stray noises, so they do not collect, then reflect, in such a manner that the human auditory detection devices will receive and translate sounds into the "grey matter" department, that there is an impending problem, in the receptor section of any given build

Mikes reply:

This is rhetorical at best, but it reminds me of a story, shall I, I shall...

The master Mechanic that built my 428 ci HO Engine, may have had limited parts at hand and is why parts are orientated DIFFERENTLY in this Motor? For example: There are 7 Pistons in backwards for race reasons. The #2 Piston is installed correctly and the #6 Rod is installed wrong. Perhaps he ground the Rods to suit the problem at hand by clearing the counter weights and made this motor run as well as it does, because he actually knew what he was doing using a limited number of parts at his disposal. JMO

There is no doubt that the racer/moonshiner used his own bru in this Engine for fuel, in order to lose the Cops, but he misjudged the mountain edge and over he went. Unfortunately, he caused the Piston slap, because the octane was too high and that caused the vibrating resonance throughout the lower end. JMO.

Mike out.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by MatthewKlein

The paint limits Acoustic Coupling

Mikes reply:

Very funny, there is a reason that the factory used Teflon on the Timing Gears from some manufactures, like Dodge did on my 1979 B-200 that went 150,000 miles, when it jumped timing at a stop position, Thank God, I was able to fix that one.

P.S. That last photo is what this motor looked like when I bought this second-hand project.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by tom s

I would be getting rid of those rubber hoses to each carbs. You can buy after market hard lines for 66 Tri- powers. Those hoses have contributed to the demise of hundreds of Tri-Power carbs. over the years. Tom

Mikes reply:

Some of these photos are older and I have made changes over the last 10 years or more.

I installed the 1966 Tri-power Lines from inline tube, some time ago, along with many other parts.

[rolling money pits]

Did a lug nut get wedged into the coil spring at some point?

[Dragncar]

I am getting a whole lot better idea why there are so many problems here.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by rolling money pits

Did a lug nut get wedged into the coil spring at some point?

Mikes reply:

When I purchased this second-hand project, the former owner had this Vehicle one inch off the ground in the front and claimed he was going to take it on the salt flats to run it? It had huge wheels on the front and back of the car.

It has Belltech 2" lower spindles on the front and Hurb Adams 2" lower leaf springs on the rear.

In order to run this Vehicle, the way it was on the street is impossible, just going over speed humps in the road and RR tracks...

I ended up installing 12" Rotors from a later year Impala police upgrade. Because the stock Rotor did not fit the Belltech system. He had installed this Belltech system long before today's amalgamation of aftermarket Brakes and suspension were on the market drawing board. I called up Hurb Adams and he told me what to do to fix my problem. We got to talking about his Contesa and he explained that it has lines like a woman and was thereby named after one, a Royal woman. He was on an airplane as we spoke, nice guy and very helpful, I got the jest that he wanted to talk longer, but I did not want to waste too much of the man's time, after all he had answered my question.

It turned out that I had to lower the front end and still keep his (Hurb Adams) front coil springs, which are shorter in height and heavier coil diameter. We installed rubber spacers under each side and that was not enough. We then used those spring spacers that go inside the coils, orientated front to back on a coil. We held them in with tie wire so as not to let them spin and move and end up on the bottom coil. That did the trick. It handles well, but a little race like as there intended to be. We have Koni adjustable shocks on all four corners. When I go over speed bumps now, I take it easy. I also bought Turbo rims with 8-1/2" Cooper tires. GOOD EYE FOR CATCHING THAT.

p.s. Note: THE DETAILED FINISH SANDING THAT THE FORMER OWNER DID IN THE LICENSE TAG AREA!

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I am getting a whole lot better idea why there are so many problems here.

Mikes reply:

Handling is not one of them, however this car being low to the ground is a problem on the roads of America. You never know when a pot hole is coming or a speed hump comes out of nowhere and those gas station humps, where they fill their large tanks, can be troublesome.

I have noticed that some companies that build these old classics, build the drive train up into the body area. SEE:


https://www.flickr.com/photos/detroitspeedinc/albums/

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

We ran the car tonight and there was no noise and she ran strong.

I tried to attach a video clip, but even 30 seconds was too much to upload to my email from my phone. What is the longest duration video clip that I can upload from my camera to my email and then to the forum, so you can listen to the motor?

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

The custom Fender wells extend out to the Rims, sold with the car to fit the fat tires within them nicely. The custom side marker lights are molded into the body and appear flush with the body as looked down the side. The body is straight and smooth to the touch. We used base coat with clear coat over it. Two tone paint job costs extra. Painted under the hood and trunk and Engine compartment all yellow.

The Hood is from a 1976 Formula and contains the Nostrils for breathing in cold air, but are not functional. However, the reverse Trans- am scoop is fully functional and keeps the under-Hood Temps. down, because it seals off the Carbs. from the under Hood hot air. Thereby the Carbs. only suck in cool ambient air at all times. We drilled the small round air filter tops to let additional air into the Carbs. And we find that the fuel to air mixture has improved using our noise as the test equipment, "not as rich" as it used to be, the unburned fuel is not stinging your eyes anymore.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

The custom Fender wells extend out to the Rims, sold with the car to fit the fat tires within them nicely. The custom side marker lights are molded into the body and appear flush with the body as looked down the side. The body is straight and smooth to the touch. You don't see Mount Everist, crevasses or Craters as you stare down the sides as hard as you try. We used base coat with clear coat over it. Two tone paint job costs extra. We also Painted under the Hood, Trunk and Engine compartment with yellow, under the Vehicle using a rotisserie is painted with primer and Black paint.

The Hood is from a 1976 Formula and contains the Nostrils for breathing in cold air, but are not functional. However, the reverse Trans- am scoop is fully functional and keeps the under-Hood Temps. down, because it seals off the Carbs. from the under Hood hot air. Thereby the Carbs. only suck in cool ambient air at all times. We drilled the small round air filter tops and installed two metal screens that let additional air into the Carbs. And we find that the fuel to air mixture has improved, using our nose as the test equipment, "not as rich" as it used to be, the unburned fuel is not stinging our eyes anymore.