Pontiac - Street No question too basic here!

          
View Poll Results: ATF vs engine flush to clean engine
100% ATF ran for 30 mins 1 1.89%
1qt ATF diluted before oil change 3 5.66%
Engine flush product following instructions 3 5.66%
Seafoam or MMO following instructions 12 22.64%
Just use a good oil on shorter change intervals 34 64.15%
Voters: 53. You may not vote on this poll

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  #81  
Old 12-28-2023, 10:42 PM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Originally Posted by tom s View Post
When a marine engine sinks in SW, they raise them, drain them and what they call “pickle” them by filling with dsl. Then they go through the routine of getting them running again. FWIW, Tom
Mikes reply:

Also, when we put the Boat in storage next to the house on long Island in Huntington and East North port, Dad would run the Engine to winterize it pouring MMO down the Carb. until the motor stopped, then drain the water out of the block. I remember how it smoked when we got ready to use it next summer.

  #82  
Old 12-28-2023, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by VCho455 View Post
I wish the PO of the 64 Galaxy I bought back in 82 would have flushed the 352 with something, at some point.

It was an ex-police car so it probably had good maintenance in its early years. By the time I bought it I was very tired. I paid $200 and negotiated for a full tank of gas. Then I drove it for several weeks before I pulled the engine, transmission, and rear axle and installed them in a 52 F-1. I rebuilt the engine before installing it in the truck.

When I pulled the valve covers there was an almost perfect casting of sludge under the inside of the valve covers. The sludge in the top end was inches thick in places, and not one of the rocker arms was visible. Each valve operated in a small hollow area that allowed the oil to drain to the valley.

The lifter valley looked like the badlands of South Dakota. The oil pan was so full I would be surprised if it held more than 3 quarts. I rebuilt that poor old FE after spending a week cleaning parts. It was a good runner afterwards but, oh man, what a mess!
Mikes reply:

I believe that from my researching oil in the past, that is Paraffin, a wax substance in the oil that sticks to everything, even under parts like my own Intake manifold. I learned that when you change the oil every 3500 miles or so this will happen very little.

  #83  
Old 12-28-2023, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MatthewKlein View Post
I have used BG109 engine performance restoration for over 20 years. BG products are the only engine/transmission/coolant/power steering flushes I have personal experience with. They work well.

When we still regularly serviced engines from the 80's and earlier it was not uncommon for them to be so full of sludge the lifters were covered and under the valve covers were also full. We never really did anything about it and the engines didn't seem to mind.

In the early 2000's I swapped a used 440 into my Charger from a New Yorker. During the cam and intake swap I was saddened to find the engine full of sludge. That engine ran before and was my only option so in it went. It burned 1qt oil in about 1000 miles. Over the next few years, I ran the car 500-1000 miles a year changing the oil annually. In 2003 I drove the Charger from Illinois to Las Vegas. Stopping overnight in Denver at a friend's house. Sure, enough it was down 1qt oil. Over the course of the 3600-mile trip I continued checking the oil but the consumption had stopped. The engine had fresh oil before the trip and with the steady hours of highway time the stuck rings had freed up. A few years after that I changed the intake from an Edelbrock RPM to an old DP4B. With the intake off I was surprised to find all the sludge gone. 5 or 6 years of 500–1000-mile oil changes had allowed the detergent oil to clean the engine spotless. That engine is still in the car now with over 25,000 miles since the swap.

My father graduated in 1969 and has been in the auto repair industry his entire life. I went to work for him in 1996. If a customer had cranked an engine in the winter excessively that wouldn't start, he was always quick to check the oil for fuel contamination. If contaminated the oil was changed immediately before anything else. Dad would relate several experiences from his younger days where engines had thrown rod bearings just idling to warm the fuel contaminated oil for replacement. Because of this he was very wary of engine flushes as they are usually very thin. When the BG salesman first tried to get us on board it took some convincing. The first vehicle we tried was an old 3.8L Buick of mine. It had a bad misfire because one cylinder only had 90psi compression. The short story is about the flush raised compression in all the cylinders and specifically the 90psi to 110psi. The misfire went away. After that success we flushed my brothers 72 318 with a compression test before and after. Some cylinders improved more than others but they all improved.

Modern engines have extremely thin low-tension rings. We see a TON of GM Dexos vehicles burning oil. That BG109 flush will always improve the consumption and sometimes eventually eliminate it. I always recommend to all of my customers to go back to 3000-mile oil changes with 5000 being the limit only if they have a large commute.
BG also offers other induction flushes for the GDI vehicles that develop misfires from deposits.
Before I forget - BG109 does not remove/disturb sludge. It cleans rings and hydraulic valving.

So, of the engine flushes I've tried they work. I also believe in detergent oil with a 3000-mile interval.

My 2c
Mikes reply:

You said:

"Because of this, he was very wary of engine flushes, as they are usually very thin

Mikes reply:

I spun a Rod Bearing at the Crank Pin or it was worn out already, we think that after we engine flushed my 428 ci Motor, plus remanufacturing the Heads, possibly both contributed to the current issue that I am experiencing. I deduce from this info. that when you build the top side of an engine the lower side has problems soon after and visa - versa.

Similarly, to your Engine experience, my Trans. acted. When I bought this second-hand project, the former owner sourced out a 1967 428 ci Pontiac HO and a TH 400 Trans. and a 4-wheel disc rear end and installed them in my 1979 Pontiac TA, without yet running them. I have had the pleasure over the last ten years learning just what I actually bought. A good thing to learn is that I did not overpay for what looked like a steal. I am lucky it came with brand-new Gear Vendors over under drive.

About the Trans. , it ran like crap, I would have to go up to 3500-4000 rpm to shift into second, I felt like I was racing from light to light. It took me about a year or more changing the filter and oil to realize that on a cool morning it acted like a car, I was stoked. I continued to change the fluid and filter until it worked properly, for many more years, never doing anything else to the Trans. fixed, YA. Years later it started to act up like going from third down to second and back to third. One week it happened once, the next week it happened twice, the third week three times and the fourth week it happened four times.

I likened it to Hunting up and down in rpms? Unfortunately, before I could address the issue, I ran over a root in a friend's driveway, hidden under an asphalt driveway. That caused me to have to purchase a new Torque converter and remanufacture the TH 400 Trans. By the time I fixed all that, I found out that I was not done, the forces from the Trans., being lifted while running, traveled forward in the drive line to the Harmonic Balancer, cracking it. I drove another 300 miles, trying to diagnose the problems caused by my continuous driving. To where the bolt holes on the Flexplate were out of round. To a degree that I believed needed to be replaced. It turned out that one of the noises that emanated, after the accident, was the crack in the Harmonic Balancer and not the Flexplate, it was a toss-up.

If you want to read more, I suggest you read my Thread:

TH 400 Pontiac Transmission Build or not to Build Myself?


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 12-29-2023 at 12:07 AM.
  #84  
Old 12-29-2023, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
If you want to read more, I suggest you read my Thread:
Spams this topic with 23 consecutive posts. And still wants people to read more of his insanity in another thread.

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  #85  
Old 12-29-2023, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran View Post
I had a TH-400 built for my drag car a few years back and the guy told me to put in a 50/50 mixture of Dextron VI (synthetic) trans. fluid and Mobile one engine oil, I can't remember the viscosity of the Mobil One, that he recommended. So, I ran what he said and I never had any problems with the trans., until I broke the bell housing off on launch. Since then, I had to cut off what was left of the bell housing and I installed a super bell housing. It still runs today.
Mikes reply:

Now were using Motor Oil in a TH 400 Automatic Trans. , quite the reverse with this conversation, who would of thunk-it?

  #86  
Old 12-29-2023, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 242177P View Post
Spams this topic with 23 consecutive posts. And still wants people to read more of his insanity in another thread.
Mikes reply:

In case you did not read it, I am the one that originated this topic, in my thread and the topic was moved to this thread and he admits it.

Don't be rude please, I admitted that I was wrong 100 posts ago in my thread and that I would say you all were right and I was wrong.

Move on, be a man, we are not kids here. I had to go through trial and error to prove to myself what time it was. I still doubt piston slap is the problem today. Things change as I continue to solve my own problem. Today I feel that building the upper end put excessive load on the bottom end that was weak from the start. By doing a cleaning job on the internal parts at this time, in this used engine life, coupled with the installation of remanufactured Heads, caused this latest noise that was "not" here prior to the Head work. The Point is that the engine is apart and needs be rebuilt on the bottom end. This does not mean you were right and I was wrong. Only the statement to build the bottom end earlier is in question. I should have built the lower end 100 posts ago, there you have it, I said it, let's move on, please.

P.S. In my own defense, I did learn more about Automotive mechanics than I would have if I did things other people's way all the time. There are good arguments throughout the forum and I would like to learn all that I can from every one of you, call me whatever.

Case and point, when I was learning the Carpet trade, the person I worked for said he would teach me the entire trade in one year. At the end of the year, he did "not" teach me how to put the tack strip down nor make the seams, because he always did that job. So, what did Mike do?

Mike had to go to the other carpet layers, at the main shop, to ask to work for each one (for one week) Working with each different carpet layer gives me an overview of what each carpet mechanic has learned over the years. By doing this, Mike got to learn from all the pros. Over the years, I would go back to school (partner with) a variety of pros to learn more from a multitude of pros that were in the trade, ultimately making me one of them.

I am going to ask people "not" put me down, I don't do it to you, unless you want it back and I will give back.

Yes, I need help from only those of you that are qualified and willing please. Thank you in advance.

See me @ :

TH 400 Pontiac Transmission Build or not to Build Myself?

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  #87  
Old 12-29-2023, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
In a diesel fuel system you're trying to dissolve varnish on stuck poppet valves, ATF will definitely dissolve varnish. In a transmission that has been neglected, and a transmission tune up will dissolve the varnish, and usually stick the hydraulic valves in the valve body pretty quickly after a fluid and filter change.

Varnish and sludge are different, so the ATF will dissolve varnish, but won't do much to dissolve sludge. I believe the ATF idea was based on using ATF to remove varnish from hydraulic lifters when they stick. Being a hydraulic oil, it will sometimes quiet hydraulic lifters, if the noise is caused by varnish. It doesn't work 100% of the time, I've seen it succeed sometimes, but other times it doesn't do anything, it depends what the problem is.

Cleaning up sludge in any neglected engine is rolling the dice. I've seen many that have tried to clean them up in different ways. Honestly, I've seen a bunch that have tried lots of different methods of cleaning. From what I've seen your chances of success are about 50/50 in a really coked up engine. No matter what happens, even if the engine doesn't starve for oil and spins a bearing, the neglect has shortened the lifespan of the engine measurably.

If you want to devise a plan to clean one you first have to know what sludge is comprised of. Sludge is the accumulation of all the small particulate that passes through a conventional oil filter. It forms chains and attaches to a like- particulate then settles in portions of the engine that have a slow oil flow. When the fine particulates pass through a conventional filter, the particulates will get to a saturation point that overcomes the over worked detergent package. They drop out of suspension and accumulate in pools then it/they attract more finer particulates and the deposit grows larger.

I have never done it, but have read that a bypass filter with fresh clean oil will slowly start to break up the sludge and the small particulates will be caught by the bypass filter and slowly remove the sludge. I prefer the slow, little bit, at a time method.

Pontiacs are very susceptible to a huge amount of sludge, being disturbed, all at once and sucking it into the fine screen in the pickup. I have tried to salvage half a dozen, badly coked up Pontiacs over the years, none ended well.

Buicks have a small trap door on their oil pickup tubes, that will open even if the screen is plugged. Too bad the Pontiac engineers didn't use that design also.

If I ever run into another sludged- up engine, I'd like to try the bypass filter, with fresh oil method.

Links to Project Farm, comparing ATF to Seafoam or clean an engine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wT0T...el=ProjectFarm

Using ATF as engine oil:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE2F...el=ProjectFarm
Mikes reply:

This is a video you might also apricate.

https://youtu.be/vaahKAc4rx0?si=li24esUDONq7I0A-

  #88  
Old 12-29-2023, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
Agree 1qt of ATF or diesel etc... shouldn't hurt the engine but taking it easy while driving a short distance or idling since it does dilute the oils properties is a good idea... but the main point is ATF has much lower amounts of detergents as normal oils, so there isn't any reason or advantage to using it at any concentration over normal oil or other products designed to flush/clean an engine.

With the analysis results showing how low the detergents & all other additives are compared to oil, I hope this shows that using ATF to clean an engine is a flawed myth and using it full strength in an engine is not "wise" and will cause excessive wear that is just asking for problems.

Thanks to those who have voted so far.
Mikes reply:

Read this for sure, someone agrees with me about using ATF full strength and then some...

https://www.youtube.com/live/95dKaI6...JQUC4pVFHnq-Zw

Have you added him (above) to the vote?

Could you show me how to vote on this Thread or cast my vote for me please?

Question from Mr. Mike:

Why is it that I keep hearing that Trans. fluid has lots of detergents in it that clean the inside of Trans? Example: the valve body has small valves for fluid to travel through as well as the Governers input holes, that uses a screen, before it, in my case, that I left out, because a pro that rebuilds Trans. said: "that is what he does", in a video.

I would think that the Trans. fluid has more cleaners than motor oil, because motor oil contains Paraffin (a wax compound) that sticks to everything and is more viscous at operating temp. then Trans. fluid. I think you said that motor oil is dirty, because it lives in a combustion environment at all times, while Trans. fluid lives in a very clean environment at all times?

We recently drained the 10-30 oil from the Pontiac 1967 428 ci HO and installed 10-40, after running the Engine for a day or two the oil appeared black, my roommate said, "He would worry only if it were not black".


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 12-29-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #89  
Old 12-29-2023, 11:53 AM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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Sorry not going to reply to 20+ posts claiming you know about oil after saying "oil doesn't cool an engine"... please do some research on oils & how they work in an engine, next to lubrication the most important thing oil does is... COOL THE INTERNAL PARTS OF THE ENGINE! The other most important thing is cleaning an engine... far better than ATF will.

I started this thread because you challenged me to do it to see what other members think about the subject... its very clear that nobody thinks adding 2 gallons of ATF to an engine is a good idea or beneficial in any way, besides 1 mystery vote that didnt comment. If a dirty engine needs cleaning just run engine oil at shorter change intervals that has 50x more cleaning/detergent additives than ATF, or use a product designed to clean an engine.

I showed an analysis of ATF proving it has very low detergents or lubricating additives, lower than even the cheapest oil. ATF is NOT naptha or remotely similar to MMO, where do you come up with this stuff? Again, do some research on automotive fluids.

P.S. Manual transmissions are not subjected to the same forces as an internal combustion engine & its valve train, if they were they would require high levels of anti wear & extreme pressure additives like engine oils have, ATFs have little to no real AW & EP additives.

The voting on this was for a limited time so its been closed, but you voting to use 2 gallons of ATF based on a flawed myth some guy told you wouldnt have swayed the results. FACTS on ATF are clear as day, it does not clean or lubricate anywhere near as good as oil. Period.

P.S.S.- Moderators closed your other thread for all the unrelated & off the rails comments you were posting, this thread is or was on topic with legitimate discussions.


Last edited by 78w72; 12-29-2023 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 12-29-2023, 06:02 PM
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Way back in High School Auto Shop the teacher told us oil was for cooling first, lubrication second.
We always though it was the other way around and I still do.
None the less, oil is very important in cooling a engine.

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  #91  
Old 12-29-2023, 06:13 PM
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Default Oil is also for cooling

Yes agreed 100%. Oil is important and have tested damn near every oil and weight over
The last 30 years. Felt 10w40 was the best all around for instant flow to top end and bearings. As well as good flow for cooling bearings. My car sits sometimes for weeks and
Good initial flow is noticed in cooler months.
The tech at crower suggested 5w30 mineral oil for use with cam saver lifters I am using.
Gerry

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  #92  
Old 01-04-2024, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 Firebird View Post
Yes agreed 100%. Oil is important and have tested damn near every oil and weight over
The last 30 years. Felt 10w40 was the best all-around for instant flow to top end and bearings. As well as good flow for cooling bearings. My car sits sometimes for weeks and
Good initial flow is noticed in cooler months.
The tech at crower suggested 5w30 mineral oil for use with cam saver lifters I am using.
Gerry
Mikes reply:

Oil transfers the heat caused by combustion from around the Pistons in the Block, through convection the heat transfers to the coolant and the radiator has air go by it, cooling the water like a heat exchanger.

Oil is a lubricant in the motor, the oil will travel through the crank and rod bearings for lubrication purposes while carrying the heat only, it does not cool anything.

Mikes reply:

You said:

"P.S.S.- Moderators closed your other thread for all the unrelated & off the rails comments you were posting, this thread is or was on topic with legitimate discussions."

Mikes reply;

Your and others' complaints, "not" withstanding?

However, I will agree that it was long enough.

Why would anyone, including Amsoil, in a DIY procedure use ATF to clean oil, if it were not a better cleaner than oil, why not use oil to clean oil?

Not to mention that a Trans. fluid is cleaner inside the transmission; we all can agree that there is no combustion in the Trans. But that is beside the point, it has ingredients that keep it clean, that's for sure. Trans. fluid has the ingredients it needs to clean a trans. and the engine oil has the ingredients that clean an engine, that's all. There is no more cleaner in either, other than what it takes to do the best job in each usage.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 01-04-2024 at 06:13 AM.
  #93  
Old 01-04-2024, 10:12 AM
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A couple of clarifications.

Oil collects and rejects heat by conduction, not convection.

The main and rod bearings create lots of heat and the oil flow is extremely important to keep them cool. Heat production (and the associated hp loss) is the reason why 3" mains are preferred over 3.25".

In the extreme case of the nitro engine, we had to run about 4x the normal V8 oil flow to keep the bearings and crank from coming out like a piece of burned toast. It was way more than just keeping them wet.

Eric

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  #94  
Old 01-04-2024, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
Mikes reply:

Oil transfers the heat caused by combustion from around the Pistons in the Block, through convection the heat transfers to the coolant and the radiator has air go by it, cooling the water like a heat exchanger.

Oil is a lubricant in the motor, the oil will travel through the crank and rod bearings for lubrication purposes while carrying the heat only, it does not cool anything.

Please stop posting false info based on your flawed opinions, apparently you havent learned anything about oil even when its been stated by other members or could just google it. Oil absolutely does cool internal engine parts... Where do you come up with this stuff? Here, read this. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...engine.331750/

Mikes reply:

You said:

"P.S.S.- Moderators closed your other thread for all the unrelated & off the rails comments you were posting, this thread is or was on topic with legitimate discussions."

Mikes reply;

Your and others' complaints, "not" withstanding?

Complaints? Valid suggestions based on how forums work, that the mods apparently agree with.

However, I will agree that it was long enough.

Why would anyone, including Amsoil, in a DIY procedure use ATF to clean oil, if it were not a better cleaner than oil, why not use oil to clean oil?

AMSOIL DOESNT USE ATF TO CLEAN ENGINES, their product is NOT ATF! Where do you get that from???

Not to mention that a Trans. fluid is cleaner inside the transmission; we all can agree that there is no combustion in the Trans. But that is beside the point, it has ingredients that keep it clean, that's for sure. Trans. fluid has the ingredients it needs to clean a trans. and the engine oil has the ingredients that clean an engine, that's all. There is no more cleaner in either, other than what it takes to do the best job in each usage.

Its not beside the point, You claimed ATF has MORE detergents than oil, thats why you used it to clean your engine. I provided an analysis that clearly showed ATF has very little detergents, enough for a trans but practically none for an engine, which is where you used it thinking it cleaned better than oil would. It doesnt, so why use it to try & clean an engine? Let alone using it full strength with basically NO anti wear lubrication properties... bet those bearings & cam/lifters loved that!
This thread was started to hopefully show why using 100% ATF to clean an engine is a flawed myth, the poll results support that. But based on 2012's reply it has fallen on deaf ears.

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Old 01-04-2024, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
Mikes reply:

Not to mention that a Trans. fluid is cleaner inside the transmission; we all can agree that there is no combustion in the Trans. But that is beside the point, it has ingredients that keep it clean, that's for sure. Trans. fluid has the ingredients it needs to clean a trans. and the engine oil has the ingredients that clean an engine, that's all. There is no more cleaner in either, other than what it takes to do the best job in each usage.
In a modern vehicle transmission fluid is dirty by 30,000 miles and looks like mud by 60,000

  #96  
Old 01-05-2024, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
This thread was started to hopefully show why using 100% ATF to clean an engine is a flawed myth, the poll results support that. But based on 2012's reply it has fallen on deaf ears.
Mikes reply:

The only way oil can cool an engine is if you run it through an external air cooler as I do on my vehicle as well as the Trans. Otherwise, oil conducts the heat from the bearings through the cast metal block and into the coolant passages out to the radiator which cools the coolant to air and circulates on and on ...

Please enlighten me on the principles of how oil could ever cool without the use of an external air cooler.

  #97  
Old 01-05-2024, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elarson View Post
A couple of clarifications.

Oil collects and rejects heat by conduction, not convection.

The main and rod bearings create lots of heat and the oil flow is extremely important to keep them cool. Heat production (and the associated hp loss) is the reason why 3" mains are preferred over 3.25".

In the extreme case of the nitro engine, we had to run about 4x the normal V8 oil flow to keep the bearings and crank from coming out like a piece of burned toast. It was way more than just keeping them wet.

Eric
Mikes reply:

By increasing the amount of oil or volume, you simply transfer more oil to be cooled through conduction, yes, I was tired. However, the oil is not cooling itself. Oil can only carry heat and move it from one place to another.

If oil cools without the use of an external cooler, I am always open to learn, please don't get nasty or say that what you say is falling on deaf ears, keep the answer civil, "how does oil cool and to what temp. can we expect to see cooler, when it cools"?

  #98  
Old 01-05-2024, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MatthewKlein View Post
In a modern vehicle transmission fluid is dirty by 30,000 miles and looks like mud by 60,000
Mikes reply:

I would say to those people with newer Trans. to change the oil at 30 k miles or sooner, I have never let trans. fluid get dirty, guilty with motor oil, to my disgrace, today.

  #99  
Old 01-05-2024, 04:12 AM
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Your site explains this:


"The crankshaft, the main and connecting rod bearings, the camshaft and its bearings, the timing gears, the pistons, the turbocharger, and many other components of the engine rely directly on the motor oil for cooling. All of these parts have finite temperature limits that must not be exceeded. Some can tolerate fairly high temperatures while others, such as the bearings, must run relatively cool to avoid failure. An ample supply of cool oil must be delivered to the parts, where the oil picks up the heat from the parts, carries it back to the crankcase, and transfers it to the surrounding air".



Mike said:

Through conduction in the metal block, the oil that picked up the heat at the bearings will transfer that heat to the cooling system which in turns cools the oils heat.

Your site explains this:

"An ample supply of cool oil must be delivered to the parts, where the oil picks up the heat from the parts, carries it back to the crankcase, and transfers it to the surrounding air".

Mikes reply:

This statement implies that the oil is cooled via the Oil pan.

I found the Temp. to be 400 degrees F at my oil pan, when measured with the Lazor Temp. gauge. The remote oil filter on both my Trans. and motor oil also cools the oils. Even the lines in-between help through convection. Both systems use coolers that are air cooled.

I say that unless you use an oil cooler, as many others including yourself, you're not going to cool the oil enough through the oil pan alone.

Keep in mind if you carefully read what you had me read, once again you have proved my point and that point went over your head, just read it again and you will see that that man is saying the same thing as me with more words and putting a percentage on things that mean nothing, that percentage is just his rationalization to make his point and once again you bought into the hype.

Simply stated through convection and conduction the oil only transfers the heat and by the use of an external cooler for both motor oil and Trans. fluid passes by air. The remainder of the heat is going through the antifreeze coolant to air.

Now I would say this, that after the oil has gone through the remote oil cooler and remote oil filters and remote lines and lost heat at my oil pan etc.. and the cooler oil gets to the bearings, then that oil is cooler than the bearings, creating the friction/heat that the oil is supposed to absorb and transfer that friction/heat back to the radiator or oil coolers to be cooled again.

The oil that was cooled, now in contact with and touching the hot crank and rod bearings for example, will COOL by absorbing the heat that is present to be transferred, like in an AC system, kind of. Thus, in that context, the oil man and I are in agreement.



This is a true statement: The engine block / cylinder head acts as a giant heat sink which helps transfer heat from the oil to the coolant.

Other than fuel economy and bearing clearances, I think engineers require thinner oils like 5w-20 because it dissipates heat better, as with any other thinner fluid. It flows a lot better onto all moving parts and recirculates faster to transfer heat to engine coolant, and also flows to the exterior parts of the engine that then radiates the heat into the surrounding air. convection.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 01-05-2024 at 05:02 AM.
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Old 01-05-2024, 08:19 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Mikes reply:

All of this is from what you asked me to read, people can make up their own minds, I have given my opinion and I am sticking to it.






(1) No engine has 100% cooling provided by the circulation of engine oil. Every engine has either a liquid or air-cooling design. Liquid cooled engines usually have some air cooling as well.

I have had this discussion/argument over decades with mechanics and car enthusiasts.
What I learned, many years ago, in Cat Engine diesel school was an oils properties (in order):
1. Cool engine parts
2. Lubricate
3. Keep the engine clean and free of contaminates
We were taught the same when I was trained on the F-16 in the Air Force.

(2) Respectfully they have it backwards then

The first and most distinguishing characteristic of any oil in any tribology regime is to reduce the COF of bodies in motion (lubricate)

Then comes heat transfer (cooling)

Then washing/cleaning

Sadly, there is a large body of trade literature out there that teaches this also because the term "cooling" is often misleading and misused.

(3) My 2011 BMR R1200R MC was described as air/oil cooled. Much oil is directed to the area of the head around the exhaust valve to remove heat. Works I guess, but a water-cooled engine soon followed.

(4) So, everyone here on this board should believe that the thinner oil flows and cools better theory is a total fallacy?

I think the theory needs some rephrasing.

First, 100 gpm is 100 gpm regardless of if I am pumping warm water, slurry at a mine, caramel at a food plant or tar at Oil Sands Canada so "Z"s initial statement on that is correct.

"Better" is a word that's meaningless unless qualified and in this case, it isn't so we will remove it.

In heat transfer, viscosity is an important factor but other critical factors are, total heat holding capability of the fluid (retention and removal), total volume of fluid working to remove the heat, total surface contact area, temp of the fluid entering, how fast heat is removed from the fluid.

This is also not counting the endothermic properties where the fluid itself creates heat during the working process.

These are all the things the design engineer has to figure out when devising things like what type oil, volume, flow, mass of heat sinks, air flow, fins etc. They all have to work together in a circuit to keep a machine operating at design temperature.

So, changing one part of that very long equation "can" add a benefit to a point but it "can" also create a problem and reduce thermal transfer too. (usually by creating a bottleneck somewhere else)

(5) Since on a hot engine the oil pump isn't going to be running in bypass mode until high rpm, the oil volume flowing through the engine is not dependent on viscosity. The oil pump displaces a fixed volume per rpm. Also, the majority of the engines operate in full hydrodynamic lubrication.

Moreover, the heat carried away by the oil is largely generated by the oil. In fact, the oil heats the bearings. Lower viscosity oil will generate less heat through shear friction and result in cooler engine parts and less fuel consumption. You can lower viscosity only so much before the risk of extended metal to metal contact during periods of low oil flow rates becomes excessive though.

(6) Bearings are a unique pressure and temp regime … but both the GM and Mopar in my driveway have piston cooling jets/coolers … one more job for our favorite motor oils …

(7) Finally Found the paper again... Interesting in the viscosity and piston temperature, and how much (little) effect was gained by cutting off access to oil spray under the pistons, indicating that viscous shear on the cylinder walls played more of a part than "cooling" from the oil. (Yes, it's old) http://naca.central.cranfield.ac.uk/...report-698.pdf

(8) Isn't oil flow to be considered in areas other than those which are being pushed by the oil pump?

Yes, no and maybe and in every case its more of a calculated "guestimate"- here's why.

As stated, many times here, any person can calculate flow from a PD pump going through a tube and a void area equation and deduce thermal transfer. (basic heat exchange)- you just got to know the dimensions, expected heat and flow.

Let's call the other "splash and fall" (or pool and fall) to cover everything with spray, cavities or whatever.

We might reasonably know the total internal surface area (since we designed it and someone has to cast/machine it) and have a good idea of the overall regional (s) skin temp from the material analysis. (There would be more than one heat region)

What we won't know (with any degree of accuracy or consistency)

The total volume (in terms of thickness and "hang time") of the coverage of that area since all non "pipe flows" are random and subject to various influences.

We really wont fully know the absorbed heat/temp of the oil as it hits the area to start transferring heat (that's critical because a given volume of anything has a peak absorption until either it can't take any more or a change of state starts)

So, those 2 big agglomerates of variables exist in the engine, affect the overall transfer and are real and need to be factored in- nobody disputes that.

Capturing and calculating that data is a little more difficult in reality so we do the best we can then usually add a buffer.

(9) Moreover, the heat carried away by the oil is largely generated by the oil. In fact, the oil heats the bearings.

To add as well, the convective heat transfer rate is mostly the same regardless of oil viscosity. It's also largely the same between oil groups I-IV. Some group V glycols, naphthalene's, and esters can have better heat transfer rates largely due to their higher density. Also note that air entrainment must be considered as an oil that's aerated will not transfer heat well regardless of composition or viscosity. Shearing should also be considered.

The heat generated in the bearings is coming from the friction in the bearings mostly. Very little combustion heat makes it to the bearings. NASCAR cup engines ride a fine line in this area as they typically see ~75°F temperature rise in oil temp at bearing exit. Sump temps at ~280°F with bearing temps at ~355°F with a 0w-20 oil.

Most of the engines operate in mixed or boundary lubrication. The bearings are the exception as well as the rings and pistons during peak piston speeds. Given there's sufficient MOFT to maintain full hydrodynamic lubrication in those areas, of course.

We'll all be fine and dandy but not considering heat and absorption of heat in oil not within the galleries but let's consider the already heated oil returning to the sump. I would think a thinner oil would return to the sump quicker and, as such, contribute to cooling the engine.

That's your next problem

The heat that's "absorbed" let's say on round 1 (for simplicity's sake) has to be removed from the oil to cool it down so it can absorb more otherwise the circulating oil will make it hotter.

It's overly simplistic (and wrong) to believe velocity alone will achieve some level of heat removal.

The key to heat exchange be it in an engine or a shell/tube or any other configuration is balancing to achieve optimum results in the soak time for the fluid to absorb heat to its potential then the time it takes to remove said heat from the fluid so it can do it again.

In general terms, a sump (in and of itself) does little to assist in removing heat from the fluid so there is a combination of things working together.

Ok but then where does the oil get cooled? The sump is supposed to contain the coolest oil in the engine and that is where the returning oil dissipates its heat (I probably have that all wrong too).

Sure, I will be happy to help explain this but you have to look at it as a whole for it to make sense.

A good thermal imaging scan of a machine shows this very clearly for the eye to see.

For discussion purposes, let's say an engine generates 1000 units of heat (just to pick a number that's round)

700 of those units come from the heat of combustion

300 come from the total area where friction is happening ( cylinder walls, pivots on piston pins, valve stems and everything else realizing that the journal bearings should not be contacting but fluid shear is generating some heat too)

Out of all of that heat- some goes out through the exhaust, some radiates from the mass to the skin of the engine, some is removed from the coolant. (the key here is physically removed from the engine)

That's going to account for say 600-700 units (lot of variables affecting that)- that's going to be the bulk of generated heat.

Now the oil absorbs its portion (still in the engine so the engine has yet to be 'cooled)- heat is removed from the skin of the pan and into the air (while it's in aerosol form, thin film and even streams so that's much more surface area and a variable)

Whatever "remains" becomes the "normal operating temperature" of a machine.

It's at that point where the way it's operated determines the additional properties of the oil, coolant or other transfer means (external coolers etc.) that need to be added.

Granted this is a simplistic breakdown at 1000 ft. but that's essentially the process and how oil absorbs and removes heat in a machine.

This is why things like varnish (just like scale in a steam system) affect the heat removal from the oil.

Ok but then where does the oil get cooled? The sump is supposed to contain the coolest oil in the engine and that is where the returning oil dissipates its heat (I probably have that all wrong too).
The oil sump is where oil will accumulate and where the heat in the oil is removed to the outside air. And it may be the view of the "engineers" that bearing heat from friction, but most of their rise in temp comes from the heat generated by combustion, about 98% of all the heat comes from combustion. And to boot, nearly 80% of all friction in engine is from piston rings.

Read all of post #1 again. And beyond "engineer" words on a forum, proof that very little % heat is by friction, simply attach the motor to an electric drive on the crank and remove the spark plugs, spin it at 6k rpm for an hour, measure the oil temp. Repeat the same test with plugs but without spark. Lab data tells all most of the time.

Sure, I will be happy to help explain this but you have to look at it as a whole for it to make sense.

A good thermal imaging scan of a machine shows this very clearly for the eye to see.

For discussion purposes, let's say an engine generates 1000 units of heat (just to pick a number that's round)

700 of those units come from the heat of combustion

300 come from the total area where friction is happening ( cylinder walls, pivots on piston pins, valve stems and everything else realizing that the journal bearings should not be contacting but fluid shear is generating some heat too)

Out of all of that heat- some goes out through the exhaust, some radiates from the mass to the skin of the engine, some is removed from the coolant. (the key here is physically removed from the engine)

That's going to account for say 600-700 units (lot of variables affecting that)- that's going to be the bulk of generated heat.

Now the oil absorbs its portion (still in the engine so the engine has yet to be 'cooled)- heat is removed from the skin of the pan and into the air (while it's in aerosol form, thin film and even streams so that's much more surface area and a variable)

Whatever "remains" becomes the "normal operating temperature" of a machine.

It's at that point where the way it's operated determines the additional properties of the oil, coolant or other transfer means (external coolers etc.) that need to be added.

Granted this is a simplistic breakdown at 1000 ft. but that's essentially the process and how oil absorbs and removes heat in a machine.

This is why things like varnish (just like scale in a steam system) affect the heat removal from the oil.

Where is this "lab data"?
Lab data is everywhere. As a tenet of lubes, you should know where the data is at, yes?

Just 3% of input energy is converted to heat via friction. 20-25x that is heat from combustion process.

Where the Energy Goes: Gasoline Vehicles
Only about 12%–30% of the energy from the fuel you put in a conventional vehicle is used to move it down the road, depending on the drive cycle. The rest of the energy is lost to engine and driveline inefficiencies or used to power accessories. Therefore, the potential to improve fuel efficiency with advanced technologies is enormous. Note: Energy use and losses vary from vehicle to vehicle. These estimates are provided to illustrate the general differences in energy flow in different vehicle types during different drive cycles.

The bearing heat delta in a NASCAR engine is found using a Spintron, a machine that uses an AC motor to spin an engine at a set rpm. The bearing temp rise was 75°F at 8000 rpm using oil that's already heated to 280°F in the sump. Note there is no combustion happening, just friction.

I'm surprised it's that high for a journal bearing but I guess at 8 grand it's really working the fluid.

I use a similar rig but usually I am artificially radially loading the bearing and most of mine are rolling element types.

You stated that the oil was a coolant...I countered that with what ACTUALLY happens. - this is the 2nd time you've attributed something to me that I didn't say. What I said was, "oil acts like a coolant" and not, "oil is a coolant". It's weird because while the coolant and radiator fulfill the principal role of keeping my engine cool, the oil in my engine also picks up heat as it passes through the engine and lets it go into the atmosphere via the oil cooler. Your oil doesn't function similarly? Oh, and it's not the "little more throttle", as the heat is related to RPM, not power output. - weird. In my car, whenever I give the engine gas the rpms go up...how does it work in your car?

The majority of the heat in the oil is heat generated by the oil itself undergoing shear...not the number of (non)explosions taking place in the cylinder...yes, the (non)explosions make the motive power, but the friction generates most of the heat...

If you mean the information in his post as written and in context with the discussion he was in, he is correct and I referenced the same thing up thread about the shear inside the bearings generating heat.

I think the point of confusion is that the scenario here is not the same one as there and the context is misleading.

It's important when doing thermal transfer (and most things engineering) to remember that there are specific things that have bookends in themselves and can't be mixed together like in a conversation.

Use the above as an example to illustrate the point...

The heat IN the oil GENERATED by the oil.......- That's a measurement of endothermic heat by the fluid itself as its worked. You need to know that to determine the mass, metallurgy, fluid displacement and add it to the overall cooling need. That's best to test a cold, spinning an engine with a motor to see exactly what it is isolated.

The oil in the sump is that measurement PLUS (whatever absorbed heat the oil got by conduction via contact - whatever heat it lost to air via convection) + whatever latent heat is still transferring into the oil via the mass of the engine - whatever else is removing heat= "the heat' remaining.

There's a lot of detail, specificity and differential calculus and ranges of these equations. They are not static or linear and then different designs and different lubrication regimes have different inputs and outputs.

Hope that helped a bit.

All automotive engines are air cooled. Coolant and oil are just mediums for the transfer. Water is a better medium for heat transfer because it is a better conductor of heat than oil. if oil was a great medium for cooling our radiators would be filled with oil.
The engine oils function in the engine is to keep the moving parts apart. It does a better job of this when the oil remains cool enough to maintain MOFT. That is why many engines use coolant to oil exchangers upstream of the bearings in the oil circuit. It provides a greater level of assurance for oil temperature control than the conduction of heat through the oil pan, which can vary widely due to ambient temperature, while a thermostat-controlled coolant system is much more predictable and reliable.

And it may be the view of the "engineers" that bearings heat from friction, but most of their rise in temp comes from the heat generated by combustion ...

Not the big end rod and crankshaft journal bearings. The rods are too long to transfer much of any heat from combustion into the rod bearings. All the heat generated in the rod big end and crankshaft journal bearings is simply from the oil shearing in the hydrodynamic wedge.

No engine has 100% cooling provided by the circulation of engine oil. Every engine has either a liquid or air-cooling design. Liquid cooled engines usually have some air cooling as well.
The oil is generally cooled by indirect air cooling. The oil pan is a big oil cooler. In the olden days, oil pans were often finned to accommodate better cooling, and in line with airflow under the car.

Wouldn't thicker motor oil get hotter more from pumping losses (the oil pump has to work harder to push it through the filter & bearings), more from friction in the bearings, and make the engine work harder as it does so? That's the whole concept behind CAFE driven viscosity decreases, to try to minimize friction (for some incremental MPG gains). I'm sure straight 40 or 50 takes a lot more energy than 0W-8...

Yes, a thicker oil will heat more from shearing in the same exact use conditions. The difference in shearing friction becomes smaller the hotter the oil becomes, so part of saving fuel is also in the warm-up stage of the engine running when the oil goes from very thick to very thin, relatively speaking.

Yes, oil flow is critical to the internal oil cooling process. So thinner oils *can* cool better than thicker oils, which is the main reason why I am not a fan of going too thick (a little is ok IMO). But oil flow is not determined by viscosity alone... the type of oil pump, deposits & sludge, etc. all have an effect on oil flow.


No engine has 100% cooling provided by the circulation of engine oil. Every engine has either a liquid or air-cooling design. Liquid cooled engines usually have some air cooling as well.
They all have a lot of air cooling. The air is what cools the coolant.

Coolant will heat up quicker. Oil will lag 5-10min.
But then at steady state oil should be hotter than coolant.
Coolant should usually be <200F, Oil should be 200-210F

This of course is weather, altitude, and load dependent.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 01-05-2024 at 08:51 AM.
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