[77TA406]

A rep. from Shell oil e mailed me a Pennzoil service bulletin talking about the zinc/phos levels in the api rated CJ-4 oil. The content is limited to 1200 ppm, but the bulletin also says the oil is formulated for use in diesel engines only and is not recommended for use in gasoline engines. Of course, they recommend using their high priced synthetic racing oil. Has anyone used this CJ-4 oil in their gas engines? Comments...pros, cons. Any help would be appreciated.
Chris

[cutlas]

Chris check this link out.
Good information.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/

Joe.

[geeteeohguy]

I use the Rotella 15-40 in my '67 GTO (stock /lowered compression, 69k on the overhaul) and in my '83 Toyota 4X4 (251k, never been apart). Works for me..........

[BVR421]

Ive been using Delo 400 and RotellaT diesel truck oils in my cars for close to 50 years
never found a reason to use anything else.

[77TA406]

Most of the old diesel oil also used to have a api "S" rating as well, meaning it was able to be used in gas engines. I understand the new Rotells CJ-4 oil does not have a "S" rating. This is where the question lies. Has anyone used the new rated oil in their gas engines?
Chris

[77TA406]

Sorry to add to the confusion guys. Spoke to the Shell rep this morning. He checked the CJ-4 oil again and he now says it does carry a "S" rating...so it is ok to use in our gas engines.
Chris

[PONTIAC DUDE]

What people fail to realize is that the content of oils has changed drastically over the last 2 years and any info acquired in this time period might be outdated as far as Government requirements and what is or ins't allowed now-a-days. Ya need to research current standards and what is on the market NOW.

Whew. gotta catch my breathe on that sentence. LOL.

True racing oils are allowed more leeway as to additives. They are SUPPOSED to be used off track.

[geeteeohguy]

Racing oils often don't have the additive packages needed for the diversity of street driving. One thing I found out was that There are two grades of Valvoline Racing oil, the one they sell at all the parts stores, (with no/low ZDDP additives) and the one that says "not for street use" on the bottle, which is NOT available at any auto parts store in my large city. It's the one WITH the ZDDP. It must be ordered on line. The Brad Penn stuff is supposed to be excellent, and is available. Anybody out there using it?

[locomotivebreath]

Castrol Syntech has a high zddp formula specifically for our older engines but it's only available in 20w50. Check their site but I've seen it at pep boys and walmart. Wish they offered a 10w30 though.

[geeteeohguy]

I agree. I have no need for 20/50 viscosity oil, even in my local area, wher it is over 100 degrees for a lot of the summer. I prefer 10/30 or 15/40 at the most for these engines.

[77TA406]

Not hard to understand why so many guys are going roller. I wish there was an up to date way to find out what the zinc content is for current oils that are readily available. I mean, regular, every day oil that you can buy off the shelf at any auto store. Back to the Shell Rotella T, the rep tells me that is currently made with 1200 ppm of zinc/phos. I'm gonna use it along with a bottle of EOS.
As a matter of interest, my order just arrived from GM, and I finally got six pint size bottles of Camshaft and lifter prelube...part # 88862827. It's a highly concentrated ZDDP treatment that is made to coat the cam and lifters with during install and break in. I'm going to add this to 5 quarts of off the shelf Rotella T oil, mix it thoroughly and send a sample to the lab for analysis. The analysis only costs 20.00 and it will tell me exactly what the zinc content is after the fact. I'll post my results when they come in.
Chris

[PontGuy]

Right now I am running dino 10W-30 VR-1. This is straight from the Valvoline website:

Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus.

So not much difference in zinc content. Nobody around here has either on the shelf, but the NAPA store keeps the street version behind the counter.

I plan to switch to Rotella 15W-40 next oil change to better manage the summer heat.

[68gtoMN]

Here is what you need to break in/run your period correct engine with period correct parts.

Motorhead Classic Oil

This contains all of the zinc and phosphorus and blah blah blah that you need.

[BVR421]

the ratings on the oil can have more to do with epa than the usefulness of the oil.
for example diesel oil is allowed to have more zinc etc than car oil because the smaller catalytic convertors on cars will be more affected. Ergo, the epa doesnt want you putting diesel oil in your gas car.
Its not as clear what to use anymore I agree but you have to read between the lines while doing your research.. Remember the government is involved in this oil rating deal now. LOL

[chuckies76ta]

Chris: Just use a bottle of the ZDDPlus with your oil and all should be good.. Here's some good reading..

Charles

http://www.zddplus.com/

http://crower.com/misc/faq.shtml#h

[SRR]

I just use what ever 15W40 is on sale and a decent oil filter (NO FRAMS). I warm my cars up. I never pound on them cold. Did anyone notice oil prices jumped again?

[64Leconvert]

Hey SSR- why no frams.Been using them forever with no issues.

[Cliff R]

the ratings on the oil can have more to do with epa than the usefulness of the oil.
for example diesel oil is allowed to have more zinc etc than car oil because the smaller catalytic convertors on cars will be more affected.

+1

Even though we've been running roller cams for quite a few years now, I still use the Rotella 15W-40 oil in my engines. Oil pressure is pretty high till it warms completely up, but I really love seeing around 25-30psi at idle on really hot days after driving quite a few miles. It's a bit uncomfortable seeing the pressure gauge wind past 75psi on a cold start-up, but it quickly settles back down to 60psi, and stays there for about 20-30 minutes till we get some heat in the engine.

Since going to roller cams, I've notice much better oil pressure everyplace, and we have diffculties getting the engines up to temp in cool/cold weather. I'm not quick to change with these sort of things, but I'm sure we'd be fine with 5W-30 conventional motor oil in these roller cammed engines.

On a similiar topic, we've mentioned this on several threads about running small oil filters. I've had some very NEGATIVE results with the small filters, using part number(s) recomended by others, etc. Some of these small filters just don't allow enough oil to move quickly thru them. The best flowing filter I've used to date is the plain old Purolator replacment filter from Advance Auto parts. The oil pressure is higher everyplace, cold and hot engine, and the gauge swings much faster that with most of the other filters I've tested. Since the gauge responds quicker (source location at the distributor fitting), most likely the filter is flowing plenty of oil to the galleries/bearings, etc.....Cliff

I had several of the small filters completely fail. This included a NAPA Gold and the smaller Purolator filter that fits the Pontiac housing (can't remember the part number this early in the morning).

FWIW, do NOT use a Fram filter for any reason, Fram equal JUNK!.....Cliff

[locomotivebreath]

Just a side note on Fram filters, My dad's 92 Buick Roadmaster (75,000 miles) started experiencing terrible valve train clatter upon start up a few years back. I wasn't sure what to think until he told me he was still using Fram filters - changed the oil with a fresh delco filter , problem solved ! He wasn't to happy as he had trusted and used Fram for many years. Any one in doubt only needs to cut open a Fram and they'll see how cheaply they are now made.

[SRR]

Yep, I call Fram's tourist filters that are still cruising on their reputation. Now the "tough gard" Fram filters are supposed to be OK. I also read somewhere that the ZDDP in 15W40 oil also protects the piston skirts from scuffing.