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#1
12-28-2007, 09:41 PM
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76 Trans Am dismantle started
Well myself and my son started taking apart his Trans today. We got most of the interior out. So far no surprises. Do see a little surface rust on the pass side front floor board but clearly not pan replacing rust. I was surprised how easy it came apart. Next up is the belts and the plastic trim work on the roof and rear roof/side portions.
Last edited by 1966Bonneville; 01-28-2008 at 10:18 PM. |
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#2
12-28-2007, 09:43 PM
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I assumk that I can resuse the sound deadening stuff that is under all of the carpet. It is coming up nicely and seems I can save a little JACK if I can reuse them.
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#3
12-29-2007, 06:34 PM
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Pulled all the inter today. Partial pan repair will need to be done on the very front corners of both pas and drive side otherwise they are in great shape. In the back I do have a tiny bit of rust at base of wheel wells near the rear seat belts but nothing bad at all. The rockers fron front to right b4 the wheel well is fine under that alum plate that is on mine.
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#4
12-29-2007, 08:49 PM
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I was able to get off the trim around the back window and thankfully there is no rust around the window in that area.
I did notice that some of the metal clips used to hold in the metal trim broke. Can those be replaced. |
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#5
12-31-2007, 06:48 PM
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Rusty front floors
Well it appears I get to replace some of the rusty front pans. The rust does not infest the hole area. Should I just cut that rust out and patch it or go with a complete pan for the front pass and drivers. The rest of the comeplete pan is fine otherwise.
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#6
12-31-2007, 06:52 PM
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More of the drivers floor.
Last edited by 1966Bonneville; 01-28-2008 at 10:18 PM. |
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#7
12-31-2007, 06:55 PM
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Only trunk rust that I can see. If the lower panels on the outside are rusted to hell and back I assume the trunk drop downs are also?
Last edited by 1966Bonneville; 01-28-2008 at 10:18 PM. |
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#8
01-01-2008, 05:25 AM
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alot of people will say keep as much original metal as possible for several reasons.people trying for a true factory look will try to seam at the factory seams.yours don't look that bad,just a couple small spots.myself,i think i would just put in some small patches.the carpet will cover from the top,and if they flange it right when they weld it,should be hard to see from the bottom.are you going to undercoat it,or leave it bare?either way,looks like you have a great car to start working with.
__________________
FREEDOM ISN'T FREE BUT WORTH FIGHTING FOR |
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#9
01-01-2008, 06:39 PM
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I was thinking the same thing to an extent. Cutting out the amount of rust that is there and patching it.
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#10
01-07-2008, 04:05 PM
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Well CRAP, it appears the DIY shop near me is CLOSED for good. I was banking on getting a lot of help with the metal work that needs to be done to this car, rear quarters, fram rail work. Huuuuuuum.
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#11
02-04-2008, 06:13 PM
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Well the front end (bumer/sheetmetal) is off the car as of today. Pretty clean and rust free. The driver inner wheel well is rust so that will need replacing. The Rad core support is looking good. Prob will pull it and clean it up though. I took out the tail lights and will work on the back end tear down tomorrow.
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Tim 1966 Bonneville - 389/Auto 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer - Woody Wagon 1996 Thunderbird LX - V8 (new to the drive) 1976 Trans Am - 400 4sp 1981 Honda Express - Scooter - Orig Owner "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you." |
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