[GOAT WHORE]

Tom s, dont play stupid, if you can measure in "RCH's" your ahead of most. Any way I dont really know if you are lucky or if its no big deal. I do know that people make quite a big deal about checking the run out and I will check mine just to be sure.

[Stuckinda60s]

I ran a Doug Nash 4+1 in the '80's. After about 50-runs, it started refusing to go into second when I power-shifted at 6200. Before that, it shifted beautifully even though I had been shifting at 6800. I took it apart and it looked great, I couldn't see a thing wrong with it. I talked to tech and he asked if it was clashing and I said, "No, it just refused to go into gear, even if I tried to push it in a second time." He said that's the way it acts when the trans is misaligned with the bell. The light came on. I had a Lakewood bell and had never indexed it. The stuff's still sitting under the bench, I'll have to fish it out and put it together for this '79 T/A I'm in the process of getting on the road.

[tom s]

LOL!That is the ONLY bell I have never used!Tom

[cdrookie]

i'm using a stock 1979 bellhousing and the tranny was an easy bolt up to the 557 block. read too many horror stories about the 557's,so i had another block redone and the tranny wouldn't slide into the pilot bushing, had to draw it together with the bolts, and it was tight. then my slave cylinder(throw out bearing) was leaking so it had to come back apart. that's when i decided to check bellhousing run out. after lining it up the tranny fit nice up to the block, no need to draw it together.

[GTOGreg]

Congrats on the trans, David. Look forward to hearing of your exploits with your new found gears/RPM range.

I ordered one from Keisler, had one in my hands, and decided to ship it back to get a RS600. 9 months later I got my money back because of their outright lie on availability and vowed never to do biz with Keisler again. Would love to see a new market entrant (McLeod was working on the M800). I'll get around to the swap one of these days I guess.

[lust4speed]

I was just over helping a club member to measure run-out on a Lakewood scattershield, and it measured over .100" out. We called up Ken Crocie and he let us know that the record for a Lakewood that he received was .140". Obviously the offset dowel pins were going to be of no help. With Ken's guidance, the piece finally ended up at .005" run-out. Ken's trick is to elongate the holes in the scattershield in the direction it needs to move. After the shield is aligned and bolts tightened, a thick 5/8" washer is slid over the dowel up against the scattershield and welded in place. At that point the unit is forever aligned, and if you do have to remove it, it will slide right back where it should with no aggravation. Pretty cool solution.

[David Jones]

The Turbo 400 comes down tonight..........

[rad400]

Dave So far sounds like it is going well. Good luck tonight with removing the T400.

[GOAT WHORE]

Lust4speed,
Thanks for sharing that tip, awesome advice that just might come in handy!

[David Jones]

Okee Dokee, the Turbo 400 is out.

The crankshaft IS ready for a pilot bearing. I was nearly scared to look when I slid the transmission out.

I still have to a couple of little things to deal with....the linkage to the column.....the shift cable and I'll probably go ahead and run the new speedometer cable. I also want to clean the paint off of the back of the block where the bellhousing mates.

I noticed that one of the dowel pins is out further than the other. I'll have to look at that situation tomorrow.

How much is enough dowel pin? I have a Quick Time bellhousing with the separate motor (?) plate. I'm imaging that that'll require more length?

If they need replacing...what are some methods for removing them? Is something like PB Blaster any help?

[cdrookie]

weld a big nut on them and turn them out with a ratchet.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Either that or use Kroil. Just make sure you let them sit overnight after you spray them.

[TheMonkey]

Originally Posted by David Jones

...
The crankshaft IS ready for a pilot bearing. I was nearly scared to look when I slid the transmission out.
...

...5 Speed Roulette....

Removing the dowels: drill hole all the way through dowel. tap hole for thread on zerk fitting and screw it in. pump grease in and dowel will poo right out.

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by TheMonkey

...5 Speed Roulette....

Removing the dowels: drill hole all the way through dowel. tap hole for thread on zerk fitting and screw it in. pump grease in and dowel will poo right out.

I'm going back over to the shop tomorrow and help repair the hole that was drilled through the dowel and into the oil passage . The car's owner said that the dowel was tough drilling and when the drill bit broke through, it went through the block before he could back off. It looks like the distance from the dowel hole bottom to the passage was just over a 1/4". We're going to thread the hole in the block and Loctite in a set screw. The good news is that passage goes directly from the oil pump to the oil filter, so the debris went straight into the filter.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I'm going back over to the shop tomorrow and help repair the hole that was drilled through the dowel and into the oil passage . The car's owner said that the dowel was tough drilling and when the drill bit broke through, it went through the block before he could back off. It looks like the distance from the dowel hole bottom to the passage was just over a 1/4". We're going to thread the hole in the block and Loctite in a set screw. The good news is that passage goes directly from the oil pump to the oil filter, so the debris went straight into the filter.

Man! Mr. Murphy just has to show up doesn't he!

Karl

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I'm going back over to the shop tomorrow and help repair the hole that was drilled through the dowel and into the oil passage . The car's owner said that the dowel was tough drilling and when the drill bit broke through, it went through the block before he could back off. It looks like the distance from the dowel hole bottom to the passage was just over a 1/4". We're going to thread the hole in the block and Loctite in a set screw. The good news is that passage goes directly from the oil pump to the oil filter, so the debris went straight into the filter.

I might file that method.....AWAY.

[David Jones]

Let me ask a question that I don't think Keisler's instructions cover.

My car is....was....an automatic car. What systems do I need to disable/alter to make my car start when the time comes? How?

[PurplePackFan]

David,

Been following your thread as I have an RS600 on order from Kiesler also.

One thing to change from Auto to Manual would be the Neutral Safety switch. This would be found under the console on the floor shift cars which only allows the car to be started in in "Park" or Neutral". Either connect both ends of the purplewires together or re-route the purple wires up under the dash and install a clutch safety switch which would anly allow the starter to turn the negine over when the clutch is pushed in(disengaged).

Hope this helps, I'm sure you'll get more info on the forum.

Best of luck with the swap, I'll be watching....

John

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by PurplePackFan

David,

Been following your thread as I have an RS600 on order from Kiesler also.

One thing to change from Auto to Manual would be the Neutral Safety switch. This would be found under the console on the floor shift cars which only allows the car to be started in in "Park" or Neutral". Either connect both ends of the purplewires together or re-route the purple wires up under the dash and install a clutch safety switch which would anly allow the starter to turn the negine over when the clutch is pushed in(disengaged).

Hope this helps, I'm sure you'll get more info on the forum.

Best of luck with the swap, I'll be watching....

John

Thank you John. You've looked at Keisler's site recently? I wonder how much emphasis they are putting on the new SS700 they are picturing vs the RS600 or TKO?

[stickboy]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I was just over helping a club member to measure run-out on a Lakewood scattershield, and it measured over .100" out. We called up Ken Crocie and he let us know that the record for a Lakewood that he received was .140". Obviously the offset dowel pins were going to be of no help. With Ken's guidance, the piece finally ended up at .005" run-out. Ken's trick is to elongate the holes in the scattershield in the direction it needs to move. After the shield is aligned and bolts tightened, a thick 5/8" washer is slid over the dowel up against the scattershield and welded in place. At that point the unit is forever aligned, and if you do have to remove it, it will slide right back where it should with no aggravation. Pretty cool solution.

This is the same method I used on my Lakewood, although it was only .027 off.... drilled the holes out slightly, fresh longer dowel pins, the right size snug fit washer and clamped the bell down, tapped it around until the reading was right, then tacked the washers in place. Removed bell and finished welding with short tacks so as not to deform too much. Put it back on and reindicate to verify less than .005. T56 transmission shifts like a muncie full throttle at 5800.