Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:25 PM
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Default Factory 4-bolt Main Cap Hardware Study

With a miserably cold day here in Colorado, I decided to start cleaning up the main caps and hardware inside. While doing so, I made an interesting (to me anyways) discovery that surprised me a bit. I noticed the 4" long 1/2-13 bolts tapered down very quickly off the head. What little shoulder present below the head would be occupied by the washer and therefore the factory bolt is very sloppy in the cap with a (required) washer. For comparison, I picked up a Grade 8 bolt at the local Ace Hardware. As the pictures show, the gold Ace bolt measures in at .46 compared to the factory .42 and it rests much tighter in the cap. What's even more interesting is that the shorter outside bolt has atleast 5x the shoulder length than the much longer and more essential inner bolt.

Is there a rationale for that which I can't think of?

Seems to me that the gold bolt is the stronger of the two by design let alone age and usage.
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2019, 10:28 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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There made like that to give the proper yield at the factory TQ spec.Head bolts the same way if factory.Tom

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Old 10-30-2019, 12:39 AM
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What Tom said.
Also- The bolts are not intended to do any "locating" of the cap, just provide clamping force. When I use main studs I enlarge the cap holes to about 1/32" over the stud diameters. I do this any place a bolt or stud clamps a part that's located by other means- dowels, etc.

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Old 10-30-2019, 05:58 AM
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X3 with the above 2!

Weather wise you may be cold, but I heard this morning that there's some place in Utah thats at - Fing 39 degree's!

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Old 10-30-2019, 06:33 AM
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Aren't the factory bolts grade 11 or something like that?

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Old 10-30-2019, 09:18 AM
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I believe that bolt stretch is done at the thinnest portion of the bolt. Bolt stretch is what provides the clamping force (aka bolt torque). If a bolt does not have a thinner portion under the head then the stretch happens at the threads which greatly reduces a bolt's clamping force and leads to early failure.

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Old 10-30-2019, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie66 View Post
Aren't the factory bolts grade 11 or something like that?
I doubt it.

GTO George

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Old 10-30-2019, 10:43 AM
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Main Bolt Material .. Isnt it 300M ?

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Old 10-30-2019, 11:07 AM
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Thank you Gentlemen for your replies and explanation. I was thinking the hardware store bolts would be stronger, I'm glad I asked.

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1978 T/A 463 Pontiac, KRE 74cc 292CFM D-ports, Lunati VooDoo, V-max lifters, TKII, ATM 850 E85 carb, TCI TH-350 race tranny, 3600 converter 3.73 12 bolt 11.63@116.68mph
1981 T/A 4-speed 406 Pontiac, Merrick ported 6X heads, Comp 270S cam, Crosswind intake 750 Street Demon, 3.42 30 spline Eaton posi street car.
1980 Formula 350 Pontiac back burner project
1972 LeMans 350 Pontiac
  #10  
Old 10-30-2019, 11:52 AM
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They might be too strong to get the proper yield at the factory specs!Tom

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Old 10-30-2019, 12:17 PM
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Yes, 300M material.

A bolt needs to stretch the proper amount to deal with the loads place on it , and as posted it needs to allow that stretch to take place in the proper area to not fail.

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:08 PM
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Nunzi warned me about some ARP head fasteners years ago with the TQ specs they gave.He was worried about them lifting and distorting the deck of our 50-60 year old blocks.ARP made me studs with back cut shanks to yield at 100lb with oil.After the first set they charged stupid money to do them.I saved the two Xtra originals they did for me and just have my machine shop back cut them for me.FWIW,Tom

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Old 10-30-2019, 03:05 PM
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Until my little project, I assumed new bolts were not available because they were hardware bolts. Since that is NOT the case, I really wonder why new bolts are not available? Of course studs are always an option but on a mild rebuild new bolts would be a nice option for peace of mind...

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1978 T/A 463 Pontiac, KRE 74cc 292CFM D-ports, Lunati VooDoo, V-max lifters, TKII, ATM 850 E85 carb, TCI TH-350 race tranny, 3600 converter 3.73 12 bolt 11.63@116.68mph
1981 T/A 4-speed 406 Pontiac, Merrick ported 6X heads, Comp 270S cam, Crosswind intake 750 Street Demon, 3.42 30 spline Eaton posi street car.
1980 Formula 350 Pontiac back burner project
1972 LeMans 350 Pontiac
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Old 10-30-2019, 03:07 PM
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You will run into the same deal with studs I think.tom

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Old 10-30-2019, 08:03 PM
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The Main Cap wave for-aft.

Thick shank bolts transfer the Wave into the block to promote cracks in the Web Thread hole

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Old 10-30-2019, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theamcguy View Post
I believe that bolt stretch is done at the thinnest portion of the bolt. Bolt stretch is what provides the clamping force (aka bolt torque). If a bolt does not have a thinner portion under the head then the stretch happens at the threads which greatly reduces a bolt's clamping force and leads to early failure.
Clamping force is a result of the torque on a bolt and stretch, they are not the same.

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  #17  
Old 10-31-2019, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny406 View Post
... I was thinking the hardware store bolts would be stronger...
On the subject of hardware store bolts- be careful! I tested a grade-8-marked bolt from my local store (not a chain, don't know their source)- it broke at less than what it's yield strength should have been!

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  #18  
Old 10-31-2019, 01:56 AM
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I have had a couple CAT bolts on my HO heads for years mixed with factory.

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Old 10-31-2019, 02:50 AM
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Another factor in the reduced stock bolt diameter is that a stock bolt won't hit the sides of the bolt holes in the main caps. When standard sized studs are installed it almost always requires reaming the main cap holes so the stud doesn't rub and force the cap out of alignment, and even then it's a good idea to do a line hone to insure the caps have located properly.

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Old 10-31-2019, 08:20 AM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Good information to follow in posts, 3,6,11,17,19 . BTW, hardware store bolts if used in critical clamping applications, at the very least try to verify the bolt manufacturer. Lots of them are Chinese sourced grade 8 fasteners. They are NOT to be trusted as real grade 8. They could be anything from non-graded to grade 5. Chinese put a grade 8 head marking on them and out the door they go. I have had 2 situations now where fairly large "grade 8 fasteners" failed in a shear situation. One was on the caster wheels of an engine hoist. "grade 8", Ha. Rolled the hoist over an expansion joint in the concrete floor and the bolts sheared off like they were made of plastic.

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