[Transamric]

But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?

[grd777]

Originally Posted by Transamric

But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?

Try Goo off

[Norwood]

Use a heat gun from the underside

[78w72]

3M makes a product specifically for this, doesnt harm paint & will soften up the old glue so you can wipe it off with a rag or usually a little more effort with a old toothbrush or nylon brush. Should be able to just pull off the old W/S or try heat from underside but be careful, too much heat will damage the paint.

I have some of the 3M left and can get the part# if needed.

[hiyabradHO]

Originally Posted by 78w72

3M makes a product specifically for this, doesnt harm paint & will soften up the old glue so you can wipe it off with a rag or usually a little more effort with a old toothbrush or nylon brush. Should be able to just pull off the old W/S or try heat from underside but be careful, too much heat will damage the paint.

I have some of the 3M left and can get the part# if needed.

Would love to get the part number. Thanks.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Transamric

But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?

Please , please, Verify the Shape ( cross section) is the exact same, and same size. There are a ton of not so good repops, including late 80's GM stuff.

[Red80TA]

And make sure it installs the correct way, don't trust what just came out as being correct.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by hiyabradHO

Would love to get the part number. Thanks.

The can I have is 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner #08987. That # might be older, the current stuff I see online is part# 08984, probably have it in smaller cans at local auto stores or auto paint suppliers.

Follow instructions on the can & it works great & should not damage the paint, Ive used it on numerous trunk weatherstrips as well as T top channels.

[sixty8ragtop]

Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture accumulation at the typical 6 o’clock location. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Please , please, Verify the Shape ( cross section) is the exact same, and same size. There are a ton of not so good repops, including late 80's GM stuff.

I'm finding that out. I currently have 3 potential replacements; 2 different brand repros and 1 NOS I bought either in the late '80's or early '90's, GM #9825829 (box dated 1982?). The only one I can tell for sure is a latex covered one is the GM item. But it's considerably larger in every dimension.
I was able to cut some clean cross sections from my old molding and only the Ames FK201C matches pretty closely, but is a simple extrusion, not coated and noticeably less soft.
Any more ideas on finding a more accurate product?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by sixty8ragtop

Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture accumulation at the typical 6 o’clock location. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?

For 2nd gen firebirds I recall reading the seam was a couple inches to the left or right of the trunk latch. thats where I put it on a few cars with no leaks.

If not doing a NOS type resto, Ive had very good results with the Metro brand trunk seal, door seals too, looks & fits nice & has held up for almost 15 years & counting.

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by sixty8ragtop

Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?

My experience is primary with 'F' and 'A' bodies, so may be different for your app. However in every case the end seams have been near the 6 o'clock position. And by 'near' I mean usually a bit to the left of center.

[sixty8ragtop]

Originally Posted by 78w72

For 2nd gen firebirds I recall reading the seam was a couple inches to the left or right of the trunk latch. thats where I put it on a few cars with no leaks.

If not doing a NOS type resto, Ive had very good results with the Metro brand trunk seal, door seals too, looks & fits nice & has held up for almost 15 years & counting.

It appears that my 2 o’clock seam location may be a bit high. I have noticed that most replacement trunk seal seams are located at the 6 o’clock position. I have seen some very nice rides with a few inch offset in either direction from 6 o’clock. I have the flexibility to move or replace my trunk seal at any time, as I did not glue it in place during my last restoration. I have not experienced any water leaks so far, so my only concern is shrinkage over time. I am not the least bit concerned with any points judging repercussions..

[Red80TA]

As mentioned, original join location was just offset to side of latch.

[unruhjonny]

Originally Posted by Transamric

I'm finding that out. I currently have 3 potential replacements; 2 different brand repros and 1 NOS I bought either in the late '80's or early '90's, GM #9825829 (box dated 1982?). The only one I can tell for sure is a latex covered one is the GM item. But it's considerably larger in every dimension.
I was able to cut some clean cross sections from my old molding and only the Ames FK201C matches pretty closely, but is a simple extrusion, not coated and noticeably less soft.
Any more ideas on finding a more accurate product?

I am subscribing to this thread from this post...

[Rachelsdad]

In terms of removal, it's been a decade - or almost four - since I did mine on my '63, but I used 900 PreKleano (RM wax & grease remover). Over the years, I found that it worked better than Ditzler's or DuPont's stuff. It didn't melt what was left of the original weatherstrip, didn't hurt the paint (okay, I had to re-wax, but hey...), and did a nice job of releasing the adhesive. ISTR that I used a plastic filler spreader to work the thing loose.

The other advantage to this method is that assuming you have no paint work to do in or around the groove, you should end up with a surface which is well prepped for new adhesive. Mine has held for 38 years so far.

Oh, and I'd have to look, but I think I laid the seam at about an inch off 6 o'clock.

GL HTH

[Formulabruce]

>>>> VIDEO BELOW <<<>>>Ames stopped selling the "skinned" with latex many years ago due to their being fragile.
One day a friend, who has a couple Formulas, and I took at look at cross sections and installs ( dry)
between us we had 4 seals to try.. one was late 80's generic .
The ONLY seal we found that has the correct profile, and is SAME dimensions , is the one sold by 1 a auto.
This video shows the part number AND he installs it in his own Pontiac.
This seal passed the dollar bill test, and doesn't make the trunk too tight to shut easily.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikBDF4xRdw8

[Transamric]

Then I could always splurge on this one!! No doubt it's correct.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/176220573076

[Tellyshavilli]

Hey rick, I have some NOS if you’re looking for that

[Transamric]

PM sent. Tell me more.