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Old 07-09-2024, 05:45 PM
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Default I'm second guessing myself or am I?

I set the adjustable lifters on my "66 with 326 HO. and am second guessing that I (77 years old) did them all correctly. Is there a quick way to check all of this?

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Old 07-09-2024, 06:00 PM
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Not really a model-specific question so moving from ‘66 -‘67 Le Mans GTO forum to Pontiac Street forum for more information/discussion.

For general engine questions the Street forum sees 10 times the traffic compared to the model specific forums.

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Old 07-09-2024, 06:57 PM
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Exactly what do you mean by adjustable ?
Do you have poly locks on the stock rocker studs?

Are you running aftermarket vari duration lifters?
Is the cam of a higher lift than the .406” of a stock cam?

Here’s the factory adjustment process for the RA 4 motors which had limited travel lifters with less then .100” adjustment range.
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Old 07-09-2024, 06:59 PM
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Yes, I have polylocks on stock rocker studs.

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Old 07-09-2024, 07:24 PM
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I ordered those oil deflector tips and will try those. Thanks for the responses.

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Old 07-09-2024, 07:53 PM
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So is the motor not idling right since you made the adjustments and or is the valvetrain making noise?

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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Old 07-10-2024, 07:07 AM
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I previously had a weak/bad lifter and I kept tightening until I realized that I had wiped the cam. I installed a new cam and lifters and now I'm super cautious that I don't repeat the same mistake.

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Old 07-10-2024, 08:12 AM
PontiacHO PontiacHO is offline
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Curious… what brand of cam and lifters had the original problem?

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Old 07-10-2024, 09:09 AM
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Do you have the valley pan and intake on yet?
Adjusting the lifter preload for each valve when it’s at TDC and when you can see the lifters makes it pretty hard to not get it right since you can clearly see what what amount of adjustment your making.

Compared to the cost of wiping out another cam and lifters I would gladly go thru the cost of pulling the intake and pan and having to get new gaskets for both and get it right.

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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Old 07-10-2024, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacHO View Post
Curious… what brand of cam and lifters had the original problem?
I don't believe that the cam was the problem. It was either a lifter or it was me.

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Old 07-10-2024, 03:39 PM
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For years after making a Pontiac hydraulic valvetrain adjustable, I've used the old chevy hydraulic adjustment procedure. That being loosening the rocker until it starts clicking, tighten until it is quiet (zero lash) then tighten it an additional 1/8, to 1/4 turn.

The chevy procedure says 1 full turn, but I've always liked to run the lifter at near maximum travel.

If I already had the engine apart, I used the rotating the pushrod between my fingers procedure to indicate when the clearance was taken up, then tightened it 1/8, to 1/4 turn past the zero point.

I've normally run hydralic cams in all my Pontiacs, street, and race engines, and have had zero issues using these 2 adjustment procedures.

I've run one solid flat tappet cam, and a solid roller cam in 2 of my engines over the years using the conventional feeler gauge procedure. This has worked for me for over half a century, so I'll likely not adopt the bottoming out the lifters then loosening them a speific amount procedure. Leaving all the excess lifter travel, to me invites lifter pump up, and holding the valves open at high RPM when oil pressure is at maximum. The guys at Royal (Milt Shornack, and crew) started using the chevy procedure back in the 60s in the Bobcat treatment after making the Pontiac system adjustable using chevy rocker arm nuts, and washers, that's where I adopted it from.

Just throwing it out there, and I'll likely hear criticism about it.........

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Old 07-11-2024, 09:58 AM
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If its a stock or smaller cam, you can do the sbc adjustment thats in most service manuals, where you adjust a certain group of lifters at TDC compression stroke, then the other group of lifters at 180° from there. Its works great on stock or smaller cams, Ive doent it on multiple pontiac engines with no problems & drove, abused & raced them for 10-20 years.

Doing each lifter one at a time at the proper position is best to be sure its on the base of the cam lobe, but the multiple lifter procedure for smaller cams works great and is much cleaner than doing it while running with the valve cover off.

Also be aware each lifter type/brand can have a different preload setting, you cant just turn all of them 1/2 or 1 full turn.... some are 1/2 some are 1 full, best to read the instructions that came with the lifters to be sure they are adjusted right.

  #13  
Old 07-11-2024, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arbys View Post
I'm second guessing myself or am I?
I had to reply, purely because I loved the subject line - because you're second guessing yourself in that too! LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
For years after making a Pontiac hydraulic valvetrain adjustable, I've used the old chevy hydraulic adjustment procedure. That being loosening the rocker until it starts clicking, tighten until it is quiet (zero lash) then tighten it an additional 1/8, to 1/4 turn.

The chevy procedure says 1 full turn, but I've always liked to run the lifter at near maximum travel.

If I already had the engine apart, I used the rotating the pushrod between my fingers procedure to indicate when the clearance was taken up, then tightened it 1/8, to 1/4 turn past the zero point.

I've normally run hydralic cams in all my Pontiacs, street, and race engines, and have had zero issues using these 2 adjustment procedures.
This also became my prefered method.

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  #14  
Old 07-11-2024, 02:07 PM
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Adjusting the lifters with the engine running is so messy oil squirting everywhere all over the place. This is out of the question for me. Most lifter manufactures recommend setting them at mid travel. Sometimes the lifter likes more towards the bottom or top of the travel. You need to know how much travel the lifter is rated at as all lifters don't have the same travel. You can determine the travel with a dial indicator or just counting the turns from zero lash to when it bottoms out. Sometimes you need to try different settings to get rid of the ticking. Mid travel is ideal if the lifters are quiet at that setting.

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Old 07-12-2024, 03:13 AM
Dragncar Dragncar is offline
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You can adjust hyd lifters and not make a big mess with modified stock valve covers. Pretty easy once you cut up a old one.
Nah, I am a solid lifter guy now anyway !

  #16  
Old 07-12-2024, 06:29 AM
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If your running stock rockers then KD tools rocker arm clips and a section of cardboard like in this photo is all you need .
Keep the jig saw for cutting out an old valve covers in your tool cabinet.

With rocker arm oil defector clips the cardboard will not even get half as much oil on it as seen here.
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__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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