[redhawk44]

I've been looking at ARP's site for the torque and I see 110 ft. lbs. is the only value they show. I thought the rear main was torqued a few more lbs? Am I wrong?

[steve25]

A stock bolt would go to 120 with 30W oil as a lube, if you are using ARP lube, or a ARP stud with lube, then yes the torque spec is less, but this 110 is for the eight 1/2" studs , the two rear main studs get cranked down to 140 if I recall right in 4 steps , where as the 1/2" ones get taken to 110 in 3 steps.

Be triple sure that if you are using a rope type stock seal that no little shards of it get trapped under the cap and the block at the parting line other wise you can kiss the motor goodby in short order!

I have always done the HO racing mod when I use a rope seal and grind a little cove on the cap around the seal ( like .008" deep ) so that if any seal does stick out it's not a issue , and I just pack some sealer in those 2 cove's to stop oil leaks and let it set up over nite before spinning the Crank any.

[redhawk44]

Yes, Sorry. It is 1/2 inch studs with ARP lube. I'm wondering why does ARP not show this?

[steve25]

They do. If you scroll down more in there Pontiac stud listing you will see where the spec is for the rear main studs, it's below the listing from the 1/2" stud 110 spec.
I just went to the site to double check and that's where I found it!

[78w72]

ARP bolts/studs have different torque ratings than stock bolts. i had the same situation on my build, was following the factory specs when assembling the motor but thought it would be best to call ARP & ask about their torque specs for main & head studs, sure enough they were different. if you cant find the specs printed, its worth a quick call to ARP to get correct info.

[steve25]

Please take note that your line Bore needs to be checked with these higher torque loads if it was not done so already as once good journals may go out of round!

[redhawk44]

Just a refresh on the bearings, it was align bored with the ARP studs when I rebuilt it.

[steve25]

Cool!

[gtofreek]

Yes, front 4 are 110 lbs. with Ultra lube, and rear is 140. Here is a link to a site where you can input the ARP kit number and get the torque sheets for them.

https://arp-bolts.com/p/instructions.php

[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Yes, front 4 are 110 lbs. with Ultra lube, and rear is 140. Here is a link to a site where you can input the ARP kit number and get the torque sheets for them.

https://arp-bolts.com/p/instructions.php

Thanks Paul, I have been to the site many times trying to get the torques but for some reason I cannot get the PDF to pull up on any of my laptops or pcs(even after updating my Adobe Acrobat). I even tried it on work pc. I can get it to come up on my phone . I should be installing that Lunati cam you recommended with in the next week. I can't wait!

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by redhawk44

Thanks Paul, I have been to the site many times trying to get the torques but for some reason I cannot get the PDF to pull up on any of my laptops or pcs(even after updating my Adobe Acrobat). I even tried it on work pc. I can get it to come up on my phone . I should be installing that Lunati cam you recommended with in the next week. I can't wait!

I have the same problem on our PC. When I click on the kit instructions after inputting a number, It doesn't open the PDF, instead it downloads it, then I have to go to my downloads and open it from there.

[DSRE455]

The rear studs are 9/16, when line honing its good to loosen then up then retorque them then another light hone as things do move, fwiw, only use arp new moly lube because it gets the correct stretche first pass, for under 550hp keep main clearance between. 0022-.0026, orvyou will have low hot idle oil pressure
Torque rating is 110lbs 1-4 and 140 for the 9/16 studs on rear cap. Fwiw

[lust4speed]

I'd say that the most important thing is to torque the studs to the same values the machine shop used when line honing the block - and nine out of ten shops probably follow the specs given in the Pontiac manual. If you torque to 110 and they line bored at 100, then there will be some tweaking to the main bore.

I also have never understood ARP's values since the cast iron is the weak point, and putting in better bolts doesn't alter the load carrying of the cast iron threads.

My last complaint is they give the same torque spec for their bolts with course threads as they do for their studs and fine threads since clamping load with the fine threads increases. In some cases the recommended torque is higher with their studs than their bolts. The Ultra Torque lube reduces friction and the clamping force increases when it is used. So we have a Pontiac recommended 100 foot pounds with old bolts and 30w oil - then use better lube and change to a fine thread, and ARP wants an increase to 110 foot pounds when the original clamping force would probably be obtained with a new torque of 90 foot pounds.

Now the bottom line is probably our Pontiac blocks are usually very forgiving and there's enough beef built in to put up with extremes, but could this come up and bite us every once and awhile? Attached is a picture of a 389 block that came in where someone got really carried away wrenching down the bolts. It was said to have been rebuilt last about 30,000 miles ago so the engine just carried on -- but now the block gets to be the base for a coffee table.

[tom s]

I have always been afraid of lifting the deck on our old blocks.I had ARP do head studs for me that the shanks were narrowed to I believe .431 and they said to TQ to factory specs with oil.FWIW,Tom

[redhawk44]

So, my next question is what do I do when ARP doesn't list specs for my rod bolts? I have already sent them an E-Mail 2 days ago and haven't heard anything from them, not sure if that means they don't have an answer or that they are busy. Their site doesn't even list stainless rod bolts except for the 455 super duty. Any suggestions are welcome.

[redhawk44]

Heres a pic of My Rear Main after about 5K miles. Any thoughts on whats going on here?

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by redhawk44

Heres a pic of My Rear Main after about 5K miles. Any thoughts on whats going on here?

Yes, your crank journals have chatter marks from being ground too fast.

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by redhawk44

So, my next question is what do I do when ARP doesn't list specs for my rod bolts? I have already sent them an E-Mail 2 days ago and haven't heard anything from them, not sure if that means they don't have an answer or that they are busy. Their site doesn't even list stainless rod bolts except for the 455 super duty. Any suggestions are welcome.

You need to call the rod manufacturer. ARP won't give you that info even though it's their bolts.

[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Yes, your crank journals have chatter marks from being ground too fast.

Kind of hard to tell in this pic but the journals look good in person, to me.

[steve25]

You really want to get the tool you need to do the Rod bolts by stretch!
This will also allow you to determine if there on there way out if you find that they don't pull up right.

Here's a great rule of Thumb to keep your Rods in the block where they should be, that being if they have been torqued up 5 times then they should get replaced.

At a minimum the manufacturer of the rod torque them up once to size them and you did the same atleast once right?