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Old 02-28-2021, 08:51 PM
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Default Upper door revel molding

Is there anyway to remove scratches in this molding? I know it is anodized aluminum. I was thinking of trying some 1500 grit paper and then polishing. it is not a restoration but want to make it look good.
How hard to get the anodizing off and polish the aluminum? Don't want to make it look worse.

Thanks

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Old 02-28-2021, 09:37 PM
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You can use 'EZ Off' oven cleaner, or soak it in a solution of Red Devil Lye and water to remove the anodizing. Then sand and polish just like you would a piece of stainless. When you get it as shiny as you like, then a gloss clear or simply keep it waxed will keep it looking great!

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Old 03-01-2021, 08:04 AM
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After removal sand and polish as outlined above.
I did not have mine re-anodized and just clean now and then with wading polish.
Been looking great for many years now.
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Old 03-01-2021, 10:16 AM
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I used a piece of PVC pipe cut lengthwise and capped at both ends to make a "tank" to soak(EZ-off) the trim for about 2 minutes (it starts to fizz) then scotchbrite to remove anodize coating. Pick and file any dents/scratches and then sand starting with 400 grit(80 grit for the worst/deepest scratches) and finishing with 2500 grit and then polish. It took 70 hours to do all the trim(post car) around doors and windows and vinyl top trim and drip rails. Now you see why it costs so much to send it out to a pro. No way to do it affordably so I did it myself. Not reanodized but polish as needed and still looks great years later. PS that 70 hours did not include removing seats and door panels.

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Old 03-01-2021, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtospieg View Post
I used a piece of PVC pipe cut lengthwise and capped at both ends to make a "tank" to soak(EZ-off) the trim for about 2 minutes (it starts to fizz) then scotchbrite to remove anodize coating. Pick and file any dents/scratches and then sand starting with 400 grit(80 grit for the worst/deepest scratches) and finishing with 2500 grit and then polish. It took 70 hours to do all the trim(post car) around doors and windows and vinyl top trim and drip rails. Now you see why it costs so much to send it out to a pro. No way to do it affordably so I did it myself. Not reanodized but polish as needed and still looks great years later. PS that 70 hours did not include removing seats and door panels.
It's good to hear that you can keep them looking good without re-anodizing. I'm about to embark upon this process in earnest for my '66 post car. Bought a buffing wheel from Harbor Freight and have already used it to clean up some of the stainless trim. It's going to take a while to refresh everything!

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Old 03-01-2021, 09:09 PM
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I didn't have much luck with easy off.....just sanded and sanded and sanded. Polished them and they look great. Do have to polish a few times a year but really NBD.

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Old 03-03-2021, 11:33 AM
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I'm not 100% sure it was easy off that I used...it was something I got at Home Depot that was suggested by someone on here. I let the trim soak for a couple of minutes until I could see it bubbling or fizzing then removed it and used scotchbrite and it took off the anodized coating easily...........Ze...I know, post car = lots of extra trim to polish. Good luck.

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Old 03-03-2021, 09:17 PM
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Just tried Easy Off, didn't work at all. Even left it on for 1/2 hour Tried paint remover, that didn't work either. Also tried a very strong cleaner that stains aluminum, didn't work. Looks like sanding it is.
Might try a couple other things first.

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Old 03-04-2021, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Just tried Easy Off, didn't work at all. Even left it on for 1/2 hour Tried paint remover, that didn't work either. Also tried a very strong cleaner that stains aluminum, didn't work. Looks like sanding it is.
Might try a couple other things first.
Which version of the Easy-Off did you buy? Only the version sold in the yellow can will work.

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Old 03-04-2021, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
Which version of the Easy-Off did you buy? Only the version sold in the yellow can will work.
I've never used it for removing anodization...but I was just thinking the same thing about the yellow can. It's at a whole different level when it comes to strength. I use it as a heavy gunk degreaser. The blue can barely touches it. The yellow can, just rinse it off.

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Old 03-04-2021, 11:07 AM
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I've never used it for removing anodization...but I was just thinking the same thing about the yellow can. It's at a whole different level when it comes to strength. I use it as a heavy gunk degreaser. The blue can barely touches it. The yellow can, just rinse it off.
Yeah, the difference is that the yellow can contains sodium hydroxide (lye), which is what's needed to get the work done.

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Old 03-04-2021, 12:14 PM
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It'll sure make you head for the water hose if you get any mist whatsoever on you....and definitely use a mask and safety glasses if you're using it in a closed space. NASTY.

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Old 03-07-2021, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin View Post
After removal sand and polish as outlined above.
I did not have mine re-anodized and just clean now and then with wading polish.
Been looking great for many years now.
That looks like the Dura Glit we had in the Marines,

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Old 03-07-2021, 09:37 AM
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i used draino in the pvc tube troft trick. worked great

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