[Skip Fix]

Do you all replace the races that come in new rotors with "good ones" from a better bearing brands like Timken or National?
Since most rotors now are made and assembled in China I assume they use Chinese races.

[694.1]

Efff Yes!

[JLMounce]

Never have and I've never had any problems. I put about 20K on a set of china front rotors and the bearings and races that came out looked great. The parts were older, not newer stuff, but was still likely off-shore.

In any performance situation, the bearings/races/rotors are wear items. For instance if you're auto-xing with them, at least the bearings and probably the races need to replaced probably seasonally if you're doing more than just a couple events. If the car isn't seeing high load turns and is more of a cruiser, or a drag raced car that doesn't lift the wheels, I don't know how much I would be concerned about it unless there was some visible problem from the get-go.

Running high static negative camber numbers, does also move the load from the big inner bearing to the smaller outer bearing. This is most typical in performance applications, and why those parts are signification wear items. The spindle itself should be checked seasonally as well for cracks when doing auto-x/road racing or any drag car where the wheels leave the ground. Even the factory forgings are not immune to hairline cracking at the chamfer to the knuckle.

[turbo69bird]

I had to replace some bearings on an airplane we always use timken bearings . So I looked online bought some timken and sure enough they were NOT timken the etchings were not correct compared to others. , the bearings felt raspy when spun. . So if you do change them make sure you get what’s right there’s fake temkins out there.

[mrennie]

Even buying "Timkin" bearings isn't necessarily what you expect. I bought an SKF pilot bearing and when I saw it was made in China, I ordered a Timkin bearing from Summit.

After the extra shipping and wait time, I finally received my Timkin bearing, only to be found it was made in China.

I wouldn't bother replacing the races in cheap rotors if they looked good. However, I would definitely check them to ensure they are fully seated before installing the rotor.

[turbo69bird]

Originally Posted by mrennie

Even buying "Timkin" bearings isn't necessarily what you expect. I bought an SKF pilot bearing and when I saw it was made in China, I ordered a Timkin bearing from Summit.

After the extra shipping and wait time, I finally received my Timkin bearing, only to be found it was made in China.

I wouldn't bother replacing the races in cheap rotors if they looked good. However, I would definitely check them to ensure they are fully seated before installing the rotor.

I always forget how it’s spelled because my friends last name is temkin. They are timken.

[mrennie]

Oops, that's what I meant

[cmoc-bob]

Skip,

Yes - standard to me to use the race that comes with the bearings.

I think Timken has a good paper on what we do that.

[Skip Fix]

So tap out the unknown races and replace with the Timkens ? Granted you would think they would be more compatible if the same company.

[roger1]

Is there any reason to do it? Maybe, maybe not.
Is there any reason not to do it? No.

So I go ahead and do it when I buy new rotors.

[cmoc-bob]

All the bearings I bought over the years included races, so yes, remove the races in the rotor and install what came with the bearings.

Timken's website had a very good paper on it, all about metallurgy and clearances.

Which, I was looking for to post. Just didn't find it yet......pretty detailed paper.

And, sure - you would think if you purchased AC Delco rotors, the races they installed would/should match AC Delco bearings.

My educated guess is all the OEM's suppliers vary, so play it safe.

[cmoc-bob]

Timken Install PDF

https://www.timken.com/resources/cv6...ng-components/

[cmoc-bob]

Originally Posted by cmoc-bob

Timken Install PDF

https://www.timken.com/resources/cv6...ng-components/

This is long - but explains bearing failures. From Timken.

https://dunbelt.com/catalogos/Guia-d...-TIMKEN-EN.pdf

[Sirrotica]

I've done it both ways, and have never seen any problems either way, nor seen any advantages either way.

Something to thinks about is the new rotor and race needs to have races in them to be machined in a lathe. If you replace a rotor and reuse the original bearing you'll have a new race with a used bearing. Do you reuse the old race from the old rotor in the new rotor to keep them in pairs?

Tapered roller bearing do take a wear pattern as they are used so there is a break-in period with any new components. There is also a break-in period using a used bearing with a new race, or all new components.

Timken does sell outer races separately, as do other bearing manufacturers, so they don't necessarily subscribe to only installing matched sets.

Just like pre filling oil filters, lots of people on either side.

More important is fresh grease and plenty of it, over torque the assembly initially to be certain the components are fully seated, then re-adjust the pre load. I've done it this way over decades, hundreds of times. Like engine oil, keep contaminants out, sustain proper operating temperatures, don't run it forever without repacking bearings. Look on the side of the road during the summer at trailers missing wheels, that's the outcome when you don't ever do any maintenance.

Just like prefilling oil filters, either way will work without any ill effects. If you feel better swapping races, then do it, it's probably unnecessary.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

I've done it both ways, and have never seen any problems either way, nor seen any advantages either way.

Something to thinks about is the new rotor and race needs to have races in them to be machined in a lathe. If you replace a rotor and reuse the original bearing you'll have a new race with a used bearing. Do you reuse the old race from the old rotor in the new rotor to keep them in pairs?

Tapered roller bearing do take a wear pattern as they are used so there is a break-in period with any new components. There is also a break-in period using a used bearing with a new race, or all new components.

Timken does sell outer races separately, as do other bearing manufacturers, so they don't necessarily subscribe to only installing matched sets.

Just like pre filling oil filters, lots of people on either side.

More important is fresh grease and plenty of it, over torque the assembly initially to be certain the components are fully seated, then re-adjust the pre load. I've done it this way over decades, hundreds of times. Like engine oil, keep contaminants out, sustain proper operating temperatures, don't run it forever without repacking bearings. Look on the side of the road during the summer at trailers missing wheels, that's the outcome when you don't ever do any maintenance.

Just like prefilling oil filters, either way will work without any ill effects. If you feel better swapping races, then do it, it's probably unnecessary.

Agree 100%. Unless you have some NOS bearing races and NOS tapered roller bearings, what are you really replacing? Timkin roller bearings are made in China. SKF, Koyo, and other formally high quality bearings are made all over the world. So basically your replacing crap races with more crap races. If the factory installed crap race was slightly oversize or installed slightly crooked by the 5-year old worker in a 75 year old press, you are now in trouble. You knock out that race, put in your new one and it doesn't fit tightly. Now it spins in the rotor once up to temp. I have had that happen a few times. Really can't win. I do as Sirrotica says, pack the bearings with high quality grease and check the pre-load about once a year. That's about all you can do now with all the garbage parts out there now. The amount of junk I have to return for early failure or poor fitment is triple or more what it was 10 years ago.

[Sirrotica]

The guy that has a You tube channel (Pole Barn Garage) that resurrected " The Holey Goat" does a lot of buying of old vintage cars all over the US, and then for You tube content does what Derrick from VGG has been doing for years, drives them back to his home. He either resurrects them, or sells some, and he also has a good start for a vintage wrecking yard behind his house....LOL.

When he's prepping one for a drive back home, he'll normally pull and inspect the front wheel bearings clean them and re-pack them. He always looks to see if the car still has the OEM bearings in them, and if they're serviceable, he'll re-use the OEM bearings.

His logic was they were made properly, heat treated properly, and made out of clean bearing steel, not reclaimed rebar. So far he's batting 1000 with no failed bearings on his return trips back home. His main concern is that the 50-60 year grease hasn't turned to candle wax. The grease/lubricant is the key for good service, not what name is on the bearings, or country of origin.

Having run dirt track cars for many years there is almost nothing that torture tests front wheel bearing harder than heavy barking and throwing a car into a corner concentrating most of the weight on the RF wheel. In all that time I had only 1 wheel bearing failure, on a 61 Catalina with ball bearing front wheel bearings. We changed it over to tapered wheel bearings, and never had another problem. The ball bearings won't last nearly as long as tapered ones do in severe usage. Not many people using ball bearings any longer that are reading this though.

[Skip Fix]

So some update Timken box has a note could be made overseas but assembled in US. National bearings say China on them. The Timkens do look a little better material. Both were better than the China ones in the CPP hubs.
Aluminum hubs are a pain to drive in steel race. Cast iron/steel if a little cocked it will self correct. Aluminum will wad up a ridge!

[HWYSTR455]

I had so many issues w CPP parts and after dealing with support, I will never use CPP stuff.

Rant over, I also replace the races, even on new rotors. You just never know what you're getting.


.

[Skip Fix]

I also figure having the outer race in the hub the same as the bearing/inner race is a good idea.

[Formulabruce]

Toyo bearings have served me well.