Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6,
Also Pontiac Motors in non-Pontiacs!

          
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  #61  
Old 04-17-2008, 07:38 AM
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Pedal from a late model GTO should work.

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Old 04-17-2008, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_GTO
Pedal from a late model GTO should work.
I don't suppose you have a picture handy?

Andrew

  #63  
Old 04-18-2008, 08:33 PM
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Sometimes one has to wonder, "WHAT THE F**K WERE THESE PEOPLE THINKING?" GMPP did a very nice job coming out with a harness and ECU combo that was priced right, fits well, and is easy to hook up. Then you realize that the engineer who speced the gas pedal has never turned a wrench in his (or her) life. The pedal that they send with the harness kit is on the right:



It is HUGE and looks like it belongs on a dump truck. I can't imagine that it would fit into any car or streetrod etc...

Thanks for Jeff Schwartz, I got an alternative. The pedal on the left is from a 2007 Monte Carlo SS.



Nice and tidy, with an easy to mount flange. I was able to position it exactly where the old gas pedal was. I even used one of the original holes, drilled an extra hole, and was done.



So with some luck, I hope to drop the engine in this weekend.

Andrew

  #64  
Old 04-18-2008, 11:10 PM
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Cool! Can't wait to see the pics.

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  #65  
Old 04-19-2008, 04:16 PM
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Not much to say, as a picture is worth a thousand words:



Andrew

  #66  
Old 04-21-2008, 09:40 PM
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Today I finally got done with modifying the GMPP engine harness. There were a few things that I did not like about it and I also wanted to give it some custom touches. The thought crossed my mind to completely reloom the harness, but I decided against it. Once I got the harness all hooked up and routed, it was pretty obvious that most of the harness is not really visible. It tucks very nicely behind the engine. The most visible parts are the extremities. The little branches that go to the various sensors, throttle body, and injectors. So I addressed just those areas. Here you can see how I kept the main branch of the portion of the harness that tuns along the fuel rail. What I did reloom were all the little fuel injector sections. You can also see the fuel line. It is a smooth bore Teflon braided stainless line that I covered with the nylon loom material.



Here you can see a section of the harness that had several branches going to the coolant temp sensor, alternator, crank sensor and MAF. It looked like this:



I changed it to this:



Not a huge difference, but a small detail.

I also routed the line from the coolant crossover tube. This tube can be routed to several places. The most popular is to run it to the radiator by the upper radiator hose. Others run a T in the upper radiator hose and routed there. On 5.3L Trailblazers the line runs to the large heater hose. So I drilled and tapped the water pump and ran a stainless hardline from the crossover tube to the water pump.



Getting really close to firing it up!

Andrew

  #67  
Old 04-22-2008, 12:04 AM
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Look at all that room even with the radiator installed. I love the Corvette accessories. Plenty of room on the passenger side for a GT42R. :secret2:



I would say 75% of the engine is behind the front axle centerline. With any luck this thing will have about a 50/50 weight distribution.

Andrew

  #68  
Old 04-26-2008, 08:36 PM
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Here is a short video of the engine being fired up:

Video Link

Please do Right click and Save Link As.

Sorry about the quality. It was made with a cell phone. LOL

Andrew

  #69  
Old 04-26-2008, 09:11 PM
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Very nice Andrew.

I noticed that you've moved from IL to Ky, what part of the state?

  #70  
Old 04-26-2008, 10:22 PM
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It sounds healthy.

Brian

  #71  
Old 04-26-2008, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Holmberg
Very nice Andrew.

I noticed that you've moved from IL to Ky, what part of the state?
I live in Bowling Green.

Andrew

  #72  
Old 04-27-2008, 09:41 PM
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While this is all true Tony, the downside is that I have to travel 500 miles to see my kids, instead of seeing them everyday. You win.

So I am down to all of the little details that can take a long time to get done. Basically I am down to "connecting the dots." I got a small tube that goes from the power steering reservoir to the power steering pump. That allowed me to install the power steering pulley and finalize the accessory drive with a belt. I really like the Katech belt tensioner. I had some belt throwing issues on the RX7 and I am sure that this will cure any potential issues.



I also mounted the fuse and relay panel that came with the GMPP harness. Originally I thought I wanted to mount it on the radiator support. This would have made it less obvious. The downside to that is that all of the wires would need to be lengthened. I really didn't feel like doing that. Having it on the firewall gives me quick access to all of the fuses and the relays. There is also a "check engine" LED installed in the fuse panel. Having it on the firewall will allow me to quickly glance and see if there are any trouble codes. The number one reason for putting it on the firewall is that it allowed me to cover up some of the holes that were there from the coil and ignition box.



I also installed and bled the new, .700" bore clutch MC. The Keisler kit came with a .750" bore but I wanted a softer pedal and less bearing travel. You can see the hardline going from the MC down along the frame rail. It then mates with the braided line coming off the throw out bearing.



Speaking of MCs. I also changed the brake MC. This one is a 15/16" bore MC from a 1979 Malibu. While I had no issues with my S10 quick take up MC, I was a little concerned about the shallow pushrod dimple. This MC has a very deep pushrod hole as well as a little snap ring that keep the pushrod retained inside the MC.



Tomorrow I need to order some radiator hose couplers from Jags That Run.

Andrew

  #73  
Old 05-02-2008, 02:42 PM
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Since this was a truck engine there are a few things on it that are specific to being in a truck. The oil filler tube in the valve cover is one of those things, and the other is the dipstick. While both of these items are perfectly functional, they look a little out of place with the low, car style intake. Here is what I am talking about:



The short filler tube is from a C6. You can see how much better it looks than the tall truck style filler. Same goes for the dipstick. Here you can see the C6 dipstick tube. (I am still waiting for the dipstick to arrive)



The total for the 3 items at the local dealership was just over $40. No doubt mail order would be less, but then you have to add shipping. If you are ordering a bunch of other parts it would make sense to include these small items.

A while back I also received this handy, dandy fitting adapter kit:

Metric fitting kit

I used the adapters to install my oil filter sender behind the intake manifold, as well as to install the water temperature sending unit into the passenger side head:



Another company that has great products for adapting LSx engines into all kinds of cars is Jags That Run. JTR offers these simple aluminum tubes that allow you to mate up two radiator hoses of different diameters. This make making radiator hoses a breeze. Here is the adapter for the lower hose. It reduces the 1 3/4" lower radiator hose on my radiator, to the 1 1/2" hose on the thermostat housing of LSx engines:



I got the hoses at O'Reilly's autoparts. The little 90 degree upper hose was PN 20267.



The lower hose was PN 21064. It has the perfect bend that follows the frame and included an internal spring. Here is the end result after the hoses were trimmed and joined together by the coupler:



Look for more updates this evening.

Andrew

  #74  
Old 05-03-2008, 04:04 AM
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Lookin' great so far - keep 'em coming.

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  #75  
Old 05-03-2008, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzbk2l
Lookin' great so far - keep 'em coming.
Thank you!

I spent all day in the garage today, but I am afraid that there wasn't really anything new to show you guys. I did a lot more of "connecting the dots." I found the wire under the dash that went back to the relay for my fuel pump. This was used by the Commander 950 to turn on the pump. The GMPP harness already had a relay for the fuel pump, but I really like taking power directly from the battery to run the fuel pump. So after consulting with a couple of folks I decided to just run two relays. The relay in the harness activates the relay in the back of the car. After hooking everything up it worked perfectly. When the ignition key is in the "Run" position the pump primes for about 5 seconds and then shuts off.

Since I got all of the coolant hoses hooked up, I went ahead and filled the system. I filled the radiator. Then I filled the block through the upper radiator hose. I fired it up and ran the engine for a while. The O2 sensors are not hooked up and as it warmed up, and went into closed loop, it started idling a little rough, but it did not die. So I let it idle and warm up a bit. The stock thermostat is probably around 205 and the ECU turns on the fans at 212. The lower radiator hose stayed relatively cool until the thermostat opened. Once that happened, I just topped off the radiator and hopefully that will do it. The fans kicked on at around 212 as they were supposed to. Nice thing about the GTO is that I already had a giant Be Cool radiator. I never had any issues with the 502 and I am sure it will cool this engine just fine. The RX7 had half the radiator, and almost no grill, and I didn't have any issues.

Now I need a little help from everyone. The GMPP harness instruction say that the tach signal is a low voltage 2 pulse square wave. It also said that some older tachs may require a pull up resistor in order to function properly. I hooked up the wire from the tack and sure enough it did not work. So, what the heck is a pull up resistor and how do I hook it up?

I am trying really hard to resist project "scope creep." So with some luck this thing will move under its own power next weekend. LS swap in less than 2 months, not bad, if I do say so myself.

Andrew

  #76  
Old 05-05-2008, 12:35 AM
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So today I did as this thread above indicated:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...sistor+up+pull

I installed a 1K Ohm resistor between a switched power source and the tach signal wire:



The tach worked, but the needle was kind of jumpy below 1000 RPM. Any electronics experts have a suggestion?

Andrew

  #77  
Old 05-05-2008, 10:57 PM
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So after being a little ticked off this morning about the whole tachometer ordeal I decided to make some calls. I called my buddy John Parsons and he gave me a quick run down of Ohms Law. So I decided that instead of getting a collection of various resistors I would get a 10K Ohm potentiometer and see what works best. So I hooked up the potentiometer to the tach and set it to the 10K setting. Fired up the car and the tach seemed to work fine at low RPM. I then kept reducing the resistance until the tach stopped responding. The I zeroed in on the lowest setting where the tach responded smoothly. I then turned off the car and measured the resistance across the potentiometer. It rea 3.9K Ohms. So I gave myself some headroom and installed a 4.7K Ohm resistor. So far so good. The tach does seem to flutter ever so slightly at about 800 RPM, but there are no random fluctuations to zero. I think that will do it.

I also went to Napa and they had the Gates heat shrink hose clamps in stock. They only had a couple of sizes, but I was able to do the upper radiator hose:



I have to say that the hose clamps work as advertised. I will order some extras from McMaster just to have them around.

I also finished bleeding the brakes, filled up the transmission with fluid, and tightened up the rear suspension bolts. Hopefully next weekend I can get it into the fabricator to have the exhaust finishes up.

Andrew

  #78  
Old 05-06-2008, 01:07 AM
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I'd never seen the heat shrink hose clamps before; that's pretty cool.

Did you get the O2 sensors wired up yet? What else do you have to do before it moves?

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  #79  
Old 05-06-2008, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewb70
Not 300 pounds lighter.

Andrew
Try to get an LS1 from a Firebird. Even though it a corporate engine they were used in many of beautiful, fast, Pontiac's. I'm toying with the idea of putting the one I have into a well used driver 68 bird I own.... Mike in Oregon

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  #80  
Old 05-06-2008, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzbk2l
I'd never seen the heat shrink hose clamps before; that's pretty cool.

Did you get the O2 sensors wired up yet? What else do you have to do before it moves?
The O2 sensors are not installed yet. I am waiting for some piping to come in so that I can connect my existing exhaust with the Edelbrock headers. The O2 sensors will go in the pipe right after the headers. Besides the O2 sensors there is really nothing that is keeping me from moving the car under its own power. I may go around the block just for fun.

Andrew

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