#21  
Old 01-15-2020, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckies76ta View Post
Can some of you guys explain the benefits of blocking the cross over, then running lines from the back of the heads to the cross over.?


Thanks
Just to make sure, they are not blocking the crossover at the head. Just blocking the crossover where it connects to the timing cover.

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Old 01-15-2020, 04:53 PM
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Only pic that I have on my tablet.
If you need more detail, I can probably dig something up.
Great looking engine sir. Lot of coin and attention to detail there.

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Old 01-15-2020, 05:19 PM
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Well, just got off the phone with Jeff. Needed a 1016 and BOP one piece. That have just made a casting run for a High Port crossover that matches the misalignment(9/16) They are in heat treating right now. Have them in about two weeks.
Seems there was enough of a issue to cast the crossover. More water moving is better.

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Old 01-15-2020, 09:01 PM
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Didn't mean to highjack this thread, but as usual I have learned something! Glad I am just starting to mock this up hate going backwards!
Thanks!

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Old 01-15-2020, 10:18 PM
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Well, just got off the phone with Jeff. Needed a 1016 and BOP one piece. That have just made a casting run for a High Port crossover that matches the misalignment(9/16) They are in heat treating right now. Have them in about two weeks.
Seems there was enough of a issue to cast the crossover. More water moving is better.
Cool sounds like they've found a way to make more money.
I still don't see how blocking that little by-pass hole does anything. The only thing i see is when the thermostat is closed you have zero flow but that's why it's been posted all you need to do is drill a couple holes in the t-stat and problem solved.
Fwiw there have never been any signs of issues with heat with my HP engine, either dyno, strip or street and don't run water from back of head to the crossover. That's just my experience.

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  #26  
Old 01-15-2020, 10:38 PM
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Cool sounds like they've found a way to make more money.
I still don't see how blocking that little by-pass hole does anything. The only thing i see is when the thermostat is closed you have zero flow but that's why it's been posted all you need to do is drill a couple holes in the t-stat and problem solved.
Fwiw there have never been any signs of issues with heat with my HP engine, either dyno, strip or street and don't run water from back of head to the crossover. That's just my experience.
OK, I will bite. Why not run water from the back of the head to the crossover ? Jeff said its a good idea. The new crossover is thick enough to drill and tap for fittings.
Can it hurt ?

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Old 01-15-2020, 11:18 PM
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It helps from the possibility of getting air pockets stuck in the back of the head. It keeps everything more even. I run a thermostat also but instead of drilling it its notched twice 180 degrees apart. Crossover is plugged also , HP heads.

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  #28  
Old 01-16-2020, 12:30 AM
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It helps from the possibility of getting air pockets stuck in the back of the head. It keeps everything more even. I run a thermostat also but instead of drilling it its notched twice 180 degrees apart. Crossover is plugged also , HP heads.
Ever since I started using a Lisle radiator funnel to fill my engine(s) whilst they're able to run, so they can burp themselves, i've never had any air pocket issues again, with plugged rear coolant holes, plugged bypass + 3x holes in t/stat. Before, I always had trapped air problems and for the first 3-4 heat cycles i'd run the engine and the eng temp gauge would fluctuate a fair bit until the air worked itself out. Now I just fill, warm up, let cool down, cap on, top up overflow then it's good to go.

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Old 01-16-2020, 12:39 AM
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I want to run a thermostat vs the disc with a hole in it because want the engine to warp up as fast as possible. I have a extra .002 piston to wall because it is hard blocked. Do not want to listen to the pistons rattle any longer than I have to.

What I am thinking is running a 160 deg thermostat with the new KRE crossover then the 2 lines from the back of the heads to the back of the crossover.

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Old 01-16-2020, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by janderson View Post
Only pic that I have on my tablet.
If you need more detail, I can probably dig something up.

Ok, Thank you. I see what your doing. Makes sense now.



So, you plugged the timing cover to cross over, then ran a line from the back of each head to the cross over on the radiator side of restrictor plate.
Is that correct?


So now you have flow from the front of each head via the cross over, and flow from the back of each head via the -8 lines.



Thanks
Charles

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Old 01-16-2020, 05:39 AM
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What is on mine:
The crossover and timing cover are both plugged where they would meet.
Restrictor in crossover in place of thermostat.
-8 lines from rear of heads (connected above restrictor) to outlet housing.

So the restrictor plate has how many holes?


I'm trying to wrap my head around the function of the restrictor plate.



It appears your trying to balance flow from the front of the heads, with the flow from the back of the heads to the radiator?



Thanks
Charles

  #32  
Old 01-16-2020, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckies76ta View Post
Ok, Thank you. I see what your doing. Makes sense now.



So, you plugged the timing cover to cross over, then ran a line from the back of each head to the cross over on the radiator side of restrictor plate.
Is that correct?


So now you have flow from the front of each head via the cross over, and flow from the back of each head via the -8 lines.



Thanks
Charles
Exactly right.

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Old 01-16-2020, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckies76ta View Post
So the restrictor plate has how many holes?


I'm trying to wrap my head around the function of the restrictor plate.



It appears your trying to balance flow from the front of the heads, with the flow from the back of the heads to the radiator?



Thanks
Charles
Restrictor is just an aluminum disc with a hole in the center.
Restrictor is sized to the diameter of the coolant lines from rear of head.

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Old 01-16-2020, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckies76ta View Post
So the restrictor plate has how many holes?


I'm trying to wrap my head around the function of the restrictor plate.



It appears your trying to balance flow from the front of the heads, with the flow from the back of the heads to the radiator?



Thanks
Charles
Larry has a great setup if you are interested, fabbed to bolt directly to Pontiac Intake, not chevy pattern which requires an adapter which is what I did.

http://www.precisionautomotivespecia...Manifolds.html

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Old 01-16-2020, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
I want to run a thermostat vs the disc with a hole in it because want the engine to warp up as fast as possible. I have a extra .002 piston to wall because it is hard blocked. Do not want to listen to the pistons rattle any longer than I have to.

What I am thinking is running a 160 deg thermostat with the new KRE crossover then the 2 lines from the back of the heads to the back of the crossover.
Cool let us know how it works for you.

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  #36  
Old 01-17-2020, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by janderson View Post
Larry has a great setup if you are interested, fabbed to bolt directly to Pontiac Intake, not chevy pattern which requires an adapter which is what I did.

http://www.precisionautomotivespecia...Manifolds.html

Ok, Just wanted to say Thank you for taking the time to help. I appreciate it..
Thanks also Dragncar, sorry I high jacked your thread.

Thanks also 535 Talldeck.



Charles

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  #37  
Old 01-17-2020, 05:25 PM
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Ok, Just wanted to say Thank you for taking the time to help. I appreciate it..
Thanks also Dragncar, sorry I high jacked your thread.

Thanks also 535 Talldeck.



Charles
Its all good man. People learning things, what its al about. I checked the stuff out too. I wish it worked with a thermostat so It looks like I will drill and tap the KRE crossover.
The new crossover should help KRE sell more stuff. High Port heads, not so much just the crossover. I bet there are more than just a few people who did not want to deal with plugging it all up and bought E heads.
My HPs outflow the 340-350 std port E heads by 20cfm on the same size bore and the E heads ports are taller and wider. Jeff called today to straighten out a order and I asked him about it and he told me the HP has a more efficient port, moves more air faster and is going to make more tq and HP.
There have been some really nice running std port E head pump gas combos out there. It will be very interesting to see how my engine stacks up.

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Old 01-18-2020, 01:48 PM
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Ya, Nice that there making a crossover for the HP heads. I'm in the process of doing an IA2 now with the E-heads from Dave at SD. Gonna try for 750 hp. That will be lots for now.

Charles

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