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Old 09-11-2020, 01:08 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Default Where to buy best front suspension rebuild parts for 63

I'm rebuilding front end on 63 Lemans. Where would I get the best parts? Got the disc brake kit from Scarebird. Found a guy locally to help finish 4 link. So I'm on my way to finish this project.

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Old 09-11-2020, 03:14 PM
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It may also be the most expensive, but Rare Parts may be the easiest choice for good quality parts. https://shop.rareparts.com/search?ye...C&model=LEMANS Our host Ames Performance probably also has them, and there are any number of online sources like Rock Auto. Don't overlook your favorite local auto parts store - they may be able to supply the necessary parts as well, but be careful about what brands they can provide.

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Old 09-11-2020, 03:37 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Looked at Ames. Had most but nothing for the strut. NAPA nothing ,special order. Kanter has a kit. Just ckd your reply ok thanks. Hope the parts are quality.

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Old 09-11-2020, 06:35 PM
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I put a full Kanter rebuild kit in a 1961 Bonneville convertible I used to own and was happy with it, although that doesn't necessarily say anything about their Lemans parts.

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Old 09-11-2020, 08:07 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Thank you. That's what I was wondering. I txt scarebird he has a rear disc brake kit for 57 Olds Pontiac rears. That'll be next. Then chassis work.

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Old 09-16-2020, 09:46 PM
Doug Doug is offline
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Thumbs up 63 conversions

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdbob View Post
I'm rebuilding front end on 63 Lemans. Where would I get the best parts? Got the disc brake kit from Scarebird. Found a guy locally to help finish 4 link. So I'm on my way to finish this project.
As to rebuilding the front suspension, it is my impression that RARE PARTS provides many of the parts for the kits offered by Kanter and others. It is my understanding that, until recent times, RARE PARTS did not do retail selling but I see that they now do. A few years ago. after being unsuccessful in acquiring parts at swap meets, Ebay, etc., for a rebuild, I opted for buying a complete kit including shafts from Kanter.

If you consider acquiring suspension parts piecemeal, I have several new parts including a NOS manual steering Pitman arm which I advertised for sale on April 20, 2020 on this site. Message me if you are interested. Note that the manual steering centerlink and Pitman arm are different than the power steering setups.

I’ve been following your posts. I don’t know what you started out with or how far along you are in the whole project. I have some comments and observations which you might want to consider.

If the car is a 4cyl, it has a different crossmember (motor mounts) than a V8. It is simpler to use a V8 crossmember but a 4cyl crossmember can be modified for custom motor mounts.

For many years I read and heard that the 4cyl (and V8) engines in the 63’s were offset an inch or so to the left. However, I did some extensive measurements (nearest 1/16”) and found that the engine crankshaft (and drivetrain) all ran within 1/8” or so of the centerline of the car. I found that in Pontiac 4cyl and V8 engine blocks, the distance between the machined motor mount bosses is 12 ¼” and the crankshafts are offset ¾” (toward the driver side) between the machined motor mount bosses.

The frame rails in the engine compartment are 28” apart, equally spaced from centerline of car with the crankshaft centerline being 14 1/8” from the driver side rail and 13 7/8” from the passenger side rail. However, it must be noted that the centerline of the floorboard driveshaft tunnel is offset an inch or so from centerline of car toward the driver side, resulting in the driveshaft tube/driveshaft being offset toward the passenger side.

I note that in Dave Johnson’s White Warrior car, he had the engine’s rear shifted sideways a slight, but noticeable amount toward the driver side to give clearance to his headers.

Your ‘57 rear-end has 5-on-5” lug bolt pattern and your car has a stock 5-on- 4.5” lug bolt pattern. You may want to consider the impact on the need to carry two different spare tires. I note that the Scarebird front disc setup uses Lincoln rotors which I assume are the typical Ford 5-on- 4.5” lug bolt pattern and fit the stock Tempest hub. I suppose you could use one of those universal-fit spare tires.

The ‘57 (and the 58’s) rear-end has 29-spline axles and the 59-64 rear-ends have the stronger 31-spline axles. The 59-64 axles are too long for the 57 housing. Since it is likely that you will have to have a set of 31-spline axles made up, you might consider getting them drilled to have both a 5-on-5” lug bolt pattern and a 5-on- 4.5” lug bolt pattern.

I assume that since you are having a “street car”, you will be using a positraction instead of a locked differential. The 59-64 carrier will bolt in the 57 housing and the 64 posi unit is the better of the 59-64 units.

Good luck with your project!

P.S. Even though you plan on keeping all of your rear suspension ahead of the axle, be aware that the driver side frame rail behind the axle is an inch or so farther outside from centerline of car than the passenger side rail is.

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Old 09-17-2020, 09:00 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Thank you. Havent got the front torn apart yet. Thinking get rear end finished then take front apart. The car was a 326 4bbl 3spd car,manual steering and brakes. Yes on rear width, I'm debating about bolt pattern. I did take 59 31 spline olds axles and cut them down to work. Now im going to ck availability of 31 spline to fit. I have 3 different gear ratios with posi s to use.

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Old 09-19-2020, 08:46 PM
Chiefkey Chiefkey is offline
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SDbob....do you still have the 326 Drivetrain...I know someone looking for one.
JK

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Old 09-19-2020, 10:12 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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Bob,is the engine already in place?If not move it toward the pass side a couple inches.Tom

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Old 11-11-2020, 12:37 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Sorry missed you guys posts. Engine was traded to a friend in early 70s. I have a 67 400 dport dummy in place.Seems to fit well same clearances on both rails.I've fitted round port' Eds 'headers years ago but one tube went out into wheelwell. Now seems alot more easier to fit inside frame. I took off sway bar and in moving misplaced it.Thanks for all the info.

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Old 11-14-2020, 11:46 PM
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JohnFromVentura JohnFromVentura is offline
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I used the Kanter Kit for my 63/326. Most of it worked good except the front springs were too soft. Tried to contact Kanter but so-called techs also work in stock room and only know how to ship things.

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Old 11-17-2020, 05:59 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Thank you for Kanter. Probably get everything our host has,then ck elsewhere.

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