[FrankieT/A]

David, I'm not 100% sure ol' pinion head would know better. I think it's because of the axle bearing retainer. The spacer is to get the caliper to line up with rotor.


MnBob if you have staggered shocks like me then you need one side off a 2 wheel drive and one side off a 4 wheel drive. Calipers and all that stuff is easy to get at a parts store, but the caliper bracket is only available from the dealer, then it gets costly. The brackets are same except for the direction of the E brake cable.


The calipers are the same left and right except for the bleeder screw location.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by MNBob

Sounds great, I would like to eliminate the exhaust pipe rubbing as well. But how could this possibly work? At some point something has to pull on the passenger side lever.

The stock S-10 cables both pull from the driver side, Because, the pass side cable starts out on the drivers side and is attached to the top of the rear end housing, and then to the pass side brake assy. Doing it this way, there's none of that goofy intermediate cable to worry about, routing through the exhaust....

The two cables on the S-10 setup are hooked together with a bracket, so that both sides work together. The bracket joins both sides together.

I retrieved my parts from a 2WD Blazer. Reading more, here...I may not have all the correct parts. I was so dumb founded, finding the Blazer, w/ the complete rear disc, I gott all the parts I wanted (around December) and took them home. I got two drivers side cable (yes, I found another Blazer, soon afterward), thinking I might be able to use the two short cables, similar to the two drum cables on my original rear rum setup.....

I'm not done, parts hunting...

[David Jones]

Howard (hjones1313) did the conversion on his 70 GTO. He described his rear end as "non c clip". If a rear end is non c clip it's bolt in? He posted pictures of his installed axles and the bolt removal hole is there.
I'm on this "smart phone" and can't figure out how to post a link to his thread.
I believe this is doable with bolt in axles.

[MNBob]

David, I think it doesn’t matter about the C-clip axles. The conversion will work either way. If you have bolt in axles, you can just remove the backing plate bolts and the axles will pull out. It just means you don’t have to do the extra steps on your car. I don’t know if you have seen this article:

Pontiac Rear Disc Brakes/

77 TRASHCAN, after you and I posted the other day, I found this schematic which shows what you are talking about. If we could get this setup working, it would be an improvement. I am certainly will to go to the salvage yard to get the parts for it.

S10 Parking Brake Schematic

Finally, since I have to pay for the caliper cores, does anyone know if some of the aftermarket calipers such as those from Wilwood or Baer will work with this setup?

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by MNBob

David, I think it doesn’t matter about the C-clip axles. The conversion will work either way. If you have bolt in axles, you can just remove the backing plate bolts and the axles will pull out. It just means you don’t have to do the extra steps on your car. I don’t know if you have seen this article:

Pontiac Rear Disc Brakes/

77 TRASHCAN, after you and I posted the other day, I found this schematic which shows what you are talking about. If we could get this setup working, it would be an improvement. I am certainly will to go to the salvage yard to get the parts for it.

S10 Parking Brake Schematic

Finally, since I have to pay for the caliper cores, does anyone know if some of the aftermarket calipers such as those from Wilwood or Baer will work with this setup?

Yes. Read that. I don't think they ever really say what rear he runs, I'm assuming OEM bolt in. I just read Howard's instructions again and his conversion was definately on a bolt in axle 10 bolt. Shimming was required and he details how he handled it in the instructions. hjones1313. He emailed me a copy.
Loving the parking brake schematic.

[MNBob]

Calipers and all that stuff is easy to get at a parts store, but the caliper bracket is only available from the dealer, then it gets costly.

The cheapest place I could find for the caliper brackets (15064302 (left 4WD) and 15773309 (right 2WD)) is GM Parts Direct. It was roughly $130 apiece plus $60 shipping and handling. Add to that the $60/core for a caliper purchase because I have no cores and the total is $440.

For this much money, I think it would be worth it to wait and visit the salvage yard. I am definitely planning on new calipers and rotors, but I would at least have cores. Plus, I could get the extra parts like the ebrake cable system, caliper pins, banjo bolts, etc. I don’t know how much they would charge me for these parts, but I would expect something less than $100.

[mrennie]

If you can't find a donor at the wrecking yard, there was a guy on ebay from Florida that was parting out S10's/Blazers/Jimmys and selling the entire rear disc setup + the spacer plates fairly regularly. That where I got my parts, and they were in good enough shape to reuse the rotors and pads as is.

Up here I would have spent alot of time to find rusted/rotted junk, so was happy to find someone selling a complete setup in great condition.

[Schurkey]

What is the size of those rotors?

I'm kinda mystified at the attraction of this set-up; I'd have figured the rotors were undersized for intermediate (performance) car use.

[FrankieT/A]

10.81 inches, more than adequate for less than all out racing. Stop on a dime.

[David Jones]

My measurement says 11.6" for the 98-04 S10 rear disc.

[FrankieT/A]

The measurement I referenced was from Advance Auto's website under the spec's they have. To tell the truth I don't know which one is correct. After work today I will measure mine. I like seeing the article previously posted, which would indicate they will work for Dave. If you take the master from a '79 four wheel disc T/A which is cast iron I think that would more stock than the more rounded Corvette one but either will work. I used the one off an '80-81 T/A one cause 1) I already had it 2) it's aluminum. And, I used the proportioning valve from the T/A as well cause again I had it. That made it so I didn't have to buy the aftermarket adjustable one. They work perfectly. I over 40,000 miles on this set up. No issues. Everything was a complete bolt on, except the cables which I previously mentioned.

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

The measurement I referenced was from Advance Auto's website under the spec's they have. To tell the truth I don't know which one is correct. After work today I will measure mine. I like seeing the article previously posted, which would indicate they will work for Dave. If you take the master from a '79 four wheel disc T/A which is cast iron I think that would more stock than the more rounded Corvette one but either will work. I used the one off an '80-81 T/A one cause 1) I already had it 2) it's aluminum. And, I used the proportioning valve from the T/A as well cause again I had it. That made it so I didn't have to buy the aftermarket adjustable one. They work perfectly. I over 40,000 miles on this set up. No issues. Everything was a complete bolt on, except the cables which I previously mentioned.

The arm that bolts to the brake pedal is a straight bolt on? Pedal feel and travel seems normal?

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

I'd have figured the rotors were undersized for intermediate (performance) car use.

They spent their life pulling up the rear of a 4100+ pound vehicle that was capable of hauling 4-5 people, a good bit of luggage and able to tow a pretty decent trailer. Should be able to do the job with a bit of reserve in an old A body?

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by David Jones

They spent their life pulling up the rear of a 4100+ pound vehicle that was capable of hauling 4-5 people, a good bit of luggage and able to tow a pretty decent trailer. Should be able to do the job with a bit of reserve in an old A body?

I checked the GVWR on the Blazer I took pats from, it was like 4300-4400 pounds, more than an "A" or "F" body, nuff said...

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by David Jones

They spent their life pulling up the rear of a 4100+ pound vehicle that was capable of hauling 4-5 people, a good bit of luggage and able to tow a pretty decent trailer. Should be able to do the job with a bit of reserve in an old A body?

A firebird is no light weight to begin with, originally equipped the brake sizes of the F body and the A body are the same. My car is fully loaded with A/C, pwr windows, cruise control, power door locks, so it up there. On top of that I have sub frame connectors, g braces, an SS700(an SS700 is way heavier than a Muncie!)and nitrous. Point is the car only gained weight......it stops perfectly. It's been through many rigorous stints through tight and twisty North Carolina mountains, spirited I might add and I have never had brake fade, pulsation, overheating or any other negative effects. Best thing I ever did to the car besides the 5 SPD. I have owned numerous Trans Ams and GTO's as well as a host of other muscle cars over the past 35 years, and based on that I highly recommend them. Big brakes like Baer and Wilwood are great for looks and all out racing, mostly for looks(because you will never realize their limit during normal spirited driving,you would to race for hours straight). jMO. These will do the job with ease, they are way reasonably affordable and I can get parts anywhere I am. All my cars are drivers, granted they are in nice shape, but I drive them. Everything must function.

[David Jones]

I found a 1999 Blazer 4wd. Supposedly went on the lot about a week ago. I got what is pictured for $38.01. I had it loosely bolted together and she charged me for 2 calipers @ $10.71 ea and 2 brake caliper brackets at $2.50 ea. $2.35 environmental charge and $3.24 tax. The backing plates had holes rusted through them, so I left them, and the Blazer was situated in such a way that I'd have been lying in water to worry about the parking brake cables. I noticed that the cable system was on left most of the other possible donors after the hard parts I got were taken. I'll go back.

[FrankieT/A]

Yup, that's the deal. What do the rotors actually measure? Remember it's the cable guts that you need, don't bother with the cable housings. Don't forget you need the hoses too unless you buy them new. In my case I brought a hammer and a chisel to remove the tabs on the rear end housing that secure the hoses. I chiseled them off brought them home straightened them out and welded them to my housing. You would think its factory!

[MNBob]

David, that is exactly what you need and an incredible bargain at $38 including the fasteners. Going to the salvage yard is definitely the way to go and you can learn a lot too (like the e-brake cable system).

The other day my wife pointed out our calendar for this summer. It is brutal. If I am going to get anything done, I have to start now. This is only my first project on the car this summer. Being in Florida doesn’t help either.

Yesterday, I ordered the caliper bracket/e-brake assemblies. Today, I am going to order the calipers and cables. The cheaper calipers have “Phenolic” pistons and a smaller core charge so I will order those. I am also going to get 1 short factory cable and 1 long one. I am hoping I can cross the long one (right) over on the axle and tie into the factory setup on the left side to get the cable setup off the exhaust. If that doesn’t work, I will go to what Frankie did.

[FrankieT/A]

Ya know its funny, I must have 10 fully complete WS6 setups; backing plates, rotors calipers, cables, etc. and I wouldn't use any of it on a bet. The S10 setup is far superior!

[David Jones]

The parking brake cables from the S-10.
I'm looking to get the sections that attach to the parking brake mechanism itself (at the wheel) up to wherever that cable attaches? The inner cable itself only required?