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superdutybob · 02-26-2009, 08:23 AM

Lloyd:

I see three things real quick. Needs fuel line insulation up to the carb. Black paint on that master cylinder and a zinc dichromate (gold) M/C cover. Throttle return springs should be yellow.

Also......get rid of that automatic and convert it to a non air car! LOL

Lloyd-TX · 02-26-2009, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdutybob

Lloyd:

I see three things real quick. Needs fuel line insulation up to the carb. Black paint on that master cylinder and a zinc dichromate (gold) M/C cover. Throttle return springs should be yellow.

Also......get rid of that automatic and convert it to a non air car! LOL

Yep - I began working on a list last night. Eventually I want to correct everything possible under the hood. You know - striped vacuum hoses, the whole shebang.

Gotta get it running properly first though - it's an absolute DOG! I'm fairly certain that the carb has issues, and the timing curve is awfully slow. Plus I'm fairly certain the gas is a bit stale.

It has been determined that the '74 master didn't necessarily have bleeder scrrews, right?

I'll be sending out a mass e-mail in a few days with a list of needs and wants.

Thanks for your input - and keep firing away. I'm an SD novice!!!

superdutybob · 02-26-2009, 12:55 PM

Lloyd:

M/C config is a bit of a mystery. My car came with no bleeders or provisions for them, meaning undrilled bosses. I have seen 74's with the undrilled bosses but would not be sure that they were original M/C's. Maybe one is an early left over 73 variety which has the bleeders, and the other is the later variety. My car was a late June build being a 4 speed. I think you are safe with what you have, just need it to be finished properly.

We can take this offline if you like. Call me anytime if you have questions.

johnta1 · 02-26-2009, 01:53 PM

Lloyd, does your TA have power door locks or rear defrost?

superdutybob · 02-26-2009, 02:07 PM

John:

Are you suggesting that he should have the 80A alternator. It has A/C and power windows which should mean 80A. This car does not have it. I guess you can add that to the list and all the brackets that go with it. Judging by the pictures, I would say it has power locks but no rear defroster. Only one switch on the dash. Being a Florida car, no need for rear defroster.

Lloyd-TX · 02-26-2009, 02:34 PM

John, it has PDL but no rear defroster.

Bob, I'm 99.99% positive that the 80A alternator was NOT required unless A/C and the electric (grid style) rear window defroster. The MPC clearly shows that with either A/C or electric RWD, a 55 amp alternator was used. NO other option combinations are listed in my Delcotron charts.

In any case, the alternator on my car is NOT the OEM 1100928 55A piece, so I need to add that to my ever growing list of "wants".

johnta1 · 02-26-2009, 03:31 PM

Yep, Bob, that is what I was wondering.
Saw only 1 switch, didn't know which one he had.

superdutybob · 02-26-2009, 04:04 PM

Lloyd:

I thought rear defroster or power windows with A/C required an 80A alternator. Keep in mind that there was a late MY change to a new alternator that had a resistor added to it. It ends in 428 for the 55A variety. If your car is after a certain VIN it should have the newer alt. PN but even that is not cast in stone.

What is the number on your car? Is it a rebuilt from the local parts store?

Curious minds want to know!

Lloyd-TX · 02-26-2009, 04:17 PM

Hmmm . . . I suppose that I need to verify where the VIN break point is. Mine is a November build date.

I'm still convinced that the ONLY requirement for the 80A alternator was when the car was equipped with BOTH A/C and the "electric" (grid-style) RWD.

The one on my car is indeed a parts store reman, 1102361 or some such #. I haven't even attempted to see what that was OEM on.

J GLASGO · 02-26-2009, 06:42 PM

Lloyd,When we did the motor,he had somebody rebuild the SD carb,and we never could get it to run right with it.We did a 74 400 carb,and the car ran real well.If you got that carb with it,put it on,and it will run good again.If you have any problems,call me.John

J GLASGO · 02-26-2009, 06:47 PM

BTW,the timing curve was purposely left slow,and not fully advanced as it was not going to be raced,and we did not want any detonation issues.I told Chuck if he was going to race it,we would set it up for that,just drop it off for a day.

superdutybob · 02-26-2009, 09:41 PM

Lloyd:

If your car is a Nov. 73 build than it will have the 928 alternator. The VIN cutoff for the change was around 160,XXX. You will be way before that.

HFR supplied me my 927 37A alternator. Maybe he will chime in if he's not busy with Courtney! LOL

se428bandit · 02-26-2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lloyd-TX

As far as I'm aware, it never left Florida until Chuck Henley bought it in April, 2007.

Are you referring to Jerry Burge of Atlanta Rod Shop?

Jerry is the person i was talking about.I have known him probably 20 years now.

Held for Ransom · 02-27-2009, 12:39 AM

Yes Lloyd, you need a '928', dated 3K** - 3L**. Since your car and mine are close in build time, I won't have an alternator for you.

Your master should have the flats, like the '73 w/bleeders, only no bleeders. Application code is CS and they are date coded. I posted pictures in a couple places.

1qikta · 02-27-2009, 09:28 AM

Courtesy of one of our other proud SD owners.

Lloyd-TX · 02-27-2009, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J GLASGO

Lloyd,When we did the motor,he had somebody rebuild the SD carb,and we never could get it to run right with it.We did a 74 400 carb,and the car ran real well.If you got that carb with it,put it on,and it will run good again.If you have any problems,call me.John

Mucho thanks for that info, John. I'll give you a ring if I need anything else.

I know the engine is sound and will run great once I get fuel and ignition sorted out. I'm gonna go through the SD carb soon, but in the meantime I just purchased an NOS 17054910 SD SR carb from a local friend. With that and some distributor work I can get it running right until I can get a handle on the original SD carb.

Thanks again!

Lloyd-TX · 02-27-2009, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Yes Lloyd, you need a '928', dated 3K** - 3L**. Since your car and mine are close in build time, I won't have an alternator for you.

Your master should have the flats, like the '73 w/bleeders, only no bleeders. Application code is CS and they are date coded. I posted pictures in a couple places.

Thanks for the information, Mike.

Added to my list of wants!

J GLASGO · 02-27-2009, 01:32 PM

Lloyd.I think you will be pleasantly surprized.Once again 330 618-6583 anytime.

Lloyd-TX · 02-27-2009, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J GLASGO

Lloyd.I think you will be pleasantly surprized.Once again 330 618-6583 anytime.

I'm certain that I will be pleasantly surprised, John. I'll give you a ring if I have any further questions.

Once again, much appreciated.

PS - who could I entrust with my SD distributor. Need to send it off and have it professionally curved to my specs.

I have a spare SD dist, minus the gear. I suppose to have it curved I'll need to purchase an SD gear first - is there a source for an SD distributor gear?

Does anyone have any advice?

critter · 02-27-2009, 05:33 PM

First, nice car Lloyd. I've been following the thread but didn't have anything intelligent to ad. Go figure.

I had Rocky Rotella curve an HEI for me. He did a fine job. I'm not sure on the source for the gear.

Oh, and you guys have convinced me to not bother trying to make my car "correct". I think I'll just hot rod the crap out of it and be happy 'cause I'd never get all the lines, codes and colors right!

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