[KGTO]

I bought a new set of front coils from PY (installed 2 weeks) and I am happy with them...but I would like to bring the front down just a little, 1/2"-1" How much do I need to cut and does it matter if either the top or bottom of the spring does not line back up in the spring pocket(s)??

Thanks

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross full exhaust 11.80's@116---> UPDATED, heads race ported (287/200) and extras; shooting at low 11's in the spring, 10's on spray!

[KGTO]

I bought a new set of front coils from PY (installed 2 weeks) and I am happy with them...but I would like to bring the front down just a little, 1/2"-1" How much do I need to cut and does it matter if either the top or bottom of the spring does not line back up in the spring pocket(s)??

Thanks

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross full exhaust 11.80's@116---> UPDATED, heads race ported (287/200) and extras; shooting at low 11's in the spring, 10's on spray!

[LouisianaGuy]

Why cut, just heat them and that way you dont have to worry about which end to cut and if they will fit back in the pockets.
heat at or near the center, moving up and down the coil till its glowing red and watch the car, because it WILL drop, just may be hard to get to the coils on your car with the tire on i have never done a GTO, just S10s and b2200s and rangers.
Mike

[KGTO]

I have always been told to cut them cold. Heating loses the temper on the spring

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross full exhaust 11.80's@116---> UPDATED, heads race ported (287/200) and extras; shooting at low 11's in the spring, 10's on spray!

[gearbanger]

I installed spring in my 67 and found that the spring ends did not line up with the spring pockets exactly. I had to cut about a 1/4 coil off to get the springs to lay in the pockets the right way. Then I cut about another 2" in length off the passenger side spring to make the car sit dead level.

I would not heat a spring because I have seen heated springs break. Plus, it makes the spring all bent up. If you ever neeed to take it out. I may be impossible to get back in because it will be bent really bad.

I used a rule of thumb of cutting 1/2 of the overall length that you want to drop the car. In other words. If you want to drop the car 1", then cut 1/2" off the the overall length of the spring. But be careful. If the spring ends are not laying right in the pockets, then weird things can happen. The car will drop almost a 1/2" when that end drops into the pocket.

[KGTO]

I was wondering about that. It seems like the spring pocket in the frame is deeper than in the lower control arm, especially since I had the control arms powder coated. My car is also sitting 1/2" different from one side to the other. What do I do if I trim the spring and it no longer lines up in the pocket? Are you saying to only trim a 1/2" off the end of the coil first to drop it 1"?

1967 GTO 400 4-speed (416) #62's 11:1 solid lifter 6.8 Eagle/Ross full exhaust 11.80's@116---> UPDATED, heads race ported (287/200) and extras; shooting at low 11's in the spring, 10's on spray!

[gearbanger]

Not 1/2" in wire length, but a 1/2" in overall spring length.

Put the end of the spring up against the wall and put a board flat up against the other end parallel to the wall. Measure that distance and then make the spring 1/2 shorter than that.

Be aware of where the spring ends are when it is installed in the car first. If you cut off just a little and it causes the spring to drop into the pocket, then the car will drop more than expected.

You need to make sure that the springs are sitting in the seat right and then figure out what adjustments need to be made.