[michaeld]

Hi, guys,

Good to hear about "good deals being contagious." I dare say it's a LOT easier for big Pontiac guys to find 'em than GTO guys. The down side for us is that long ago people realized that some cars had high $ value and began preserving them, while big cars were too often left to languish.

Tennesseestorm, I hope you get that car done for your daughter. My goodness, she ought to love you for THAT job (after all, she'll see you working on her car all the time getting it ready for her). That whole "daddy doesn't love me" thing ought to be permanently rendered moot after your labor of love!

You made a comment that made me laugh, about AM having only classic country, talk radio and gospel. What more does anyone NEED? That's basically what I listen to anyway! The radio DOES sound nice (I can see that I DO have the rear speaker option); every time I've ever installed - or had installed - a stereo, I had to contend with freeway whine on the AM band. This OEM stereo has none.

455Grandville and soon2b2ltmp,
Thanks for the info on the 195 thermos. That's what I'll get. I know it's not good for a car to run to hot OR too cold. Want the OEM temp unit.

I found out that my alternator was the ORIGINAL '73 55 Amp unit (it has a 3B9 date code, which I read up on enough to understand means Feb 9, 1973). I've got to be ready for the thing to fail; but I can hardly claim that it didn't last long enough. I asked that question because the V-belts are apparently different for different amperage alts (different pulley position, maybe?). Still don't know what in the world "AP" means in relation to the belts.

So that thingy I was describing on the water hose going into the heater core is most likely a heater/AC switch? I'll start the search. The unit does work, but has extensive surface rust.

My engine bay doesn't look dreadful, but it doesn't look "clean," either. I will want to do a little housecleaning in there. There isn't anything I can do about some of the engine add-on parts and brackets showing surface rust (I suppose I COULD clean them, but don't know if I'll be able to muster the time or energy dealing with all those nooks and crannies while stopper over the car in a back-breaking angle). It's rather odd that I don't see any sign of rust anywhere but in the engine bay. When I crawled underneath to hook up the drag chains for the trailer, I took a moment to look for rust or parts needing replacement, and saw neither.

Tenneesseestorm, I have a feeling you already know this but just have to say it to make sure: you know that original parts dramatically increases a cars' classic appeal/value. But I'm pretty sure that the same does NOT apply with original dust!
Mike

[Tennesseestorm]

I know it! After I had typed that, I realized that I had forgot to mention thats what I listen to as well, but the stations are limited on AM and it would be nice to have FM to tune in if nothing was on AM @ that time. I do have a small portable FM/tape player that rides along on the passenger seat that I take with me and play most of the time.

When you see my engine photo (below), you will see a "dreadful" engine. My engine is extremely dirty. I have big (somewhat) plans for my engine this summer. I am going to give it a good cleaning, paint a little (especially the air cleaner housing) and get some new stickers. After you look at this, you will not worry too much about the surface rust on that part you mentioned.

I was also able to get one of the exterior, which is also dirty. I need to wash and wax, as it has not had a bath/wax since last summer.

The dreadful engine bay:

Originally Posted by michaeld

You made a comment that made me laugh, about AM having only classic country, talk radio and gospel. What more does anyone NEED? That's basically what I listen to anyway

My engine bay doesn't look dreadful, but it doesn't look "clean," either. I will want to do a little housecleaning in there.
Tenneesseestorm, I have a feeling you already know this but just have to say it to make sure: you know that original parts dramatically increases a cars' classic appeal/value. But I'm pretty sure that the same does NOT apply with original dust!
Mike

[michaeld]

Tennesseestorm,
I actually had the same idea about running a cassette player or MP3 player via a power inverter for listening to taped music and lectures. But I have no plans to remove the factory unit, as I would rather not "rock the boat."

Your engine bay does look a little dirtier/rustier than mine, but it's only a matter of degree. I think I could get mine looking presentable with a couple hours of effort, but it will never win "prettiest engine." How it RUNS is far more important to me than how it LOOKS.

I need a new intake hose for my air box, and ordered one this evening from "autopartsgiant.com" We'll see how good of a job they do getting me the right parts in a timely manner.

I've been working on going around the car, using rubbing compound and then waxing one section at a time. Maybe I'll finish up tomorrow or the next day.
The rubbing compound has done wonders dealing with minor blemishes. I wanted to get the car waxed because it's going to have to sit on an uncovered driveway. I'm particularly concerned with keeping the vinyl top in good shape. I know vinyl is the more expensive option, but I would have preferred a hard top if I could have had it. I used a product called F21 by Turtle Wax that has a UV protector. If anyone has found better sun protection from another product, I'd like to hear about it; it gets over 120F out this way.

[Tennesseestorm]

I agree. I do not want to remove my original unit either.

Yep, my engine compartment is in need of attention. It set in a damp barn for years- hence the surface rust and I guess that dirt turned damp and turned into grime. I need to at least clean it a little. I have not even had a drop of water on it.

Yep, when you get her cleaned up, post more photos.... we want to see that beast gleam!

Originally Posted by michaeld

Tennesseestorm,
I actually had the same idea about running a cassette player or MP3 player via a power inverter for listening to taped music and lectures. But I have no plans to remove the factory unit, as I would rather not "rock the boat."

Your engine bay does look a little dirtier/rustier than mine, but it's only a matter of degree. I think I could get mine looking presentable with a couple hours of effort, but it will never win "prettiest engine." How it RUNS is far more important to me than how it LOOKS.

I need a new intake hose for my air box, and ordered one this evening from "autopartsgiant.com" We'll see how good of a job they do getting me the right parts in a timely manner.

I've been working on going around the car, using rubbing compound and then waxing one section at a time. Maybe I'll finish up tomorrow or the next day.
The rubbing compound has done wonders dealing with minor blemishes. I wanted to get the car waxed because it's going to have to sit on an uncovered driveway. I'm particularly concerned with keeping the vinyl top in good shape. I know vinyl is the more expensive option, but I would have preferred a hard top if I could have had it. I used a product called F21 by Turtle Wax that has a UV protector. If anyone has found better sun protection from another product, I'd like to hear about it; it gets over 120F out this way.

[michaeld]

Tennesseestorm,
I actually GOT her cleaned up (i.e., meaning rubbing compound and wax). She DOES look a lot better. I haven't done the bumpers or chrome, however.

I've got another problem to occupy my attention, however. I noticed antifreeze leaking from the recovery tank when the car is fully warmed up. The leak is coming from where the screws attach. The coolant level in the tank rises, starts to leak, and then when the coolant cools, it goes down below where the screws attach. So it took a little while to figure out where the leak was actually coming from.

I also noted a slight leak coming from the thermostat housing. I've ordered parts, but haven't received them yet.

One thing that bothers me: I note that the recovery tank level is rising quite high. I don't know how high it should go, but need to look carefully at my cooling system. Everything else has checked out, though.

I am considering adding a transmission cooler to the system. Has anyone done this on a big Pontiac? I wouldn't mind info on where you bolted it up.
Like I said in my last post, it gets awful hot in these here parts - over 120F - and I'd like to give my cooling system every assistance.

[Stuart]

PY member Engine-Ear was developing an adapter device that would allow plugging in an MP3 player through the antenna jack on the AM radios in our old cars. He posted pictures of the completed product somewhere that I can't find, but here's the original discussion: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=469666 You could contact him to get more information.

[455Grandville]

Originally Posted by michaeld

Tennesseestorm,
I actually GOT her cleaned up (i.e., meaning rubbing compound and wax). She DOES look a lot better. I haven't done the bumpers or chrome, however.

I've got another problem to occupy my attention, however. I noticed antifreeze leaking from the recovery tank when the car is fully warmed up. The leak is coming from where the screws attach. The coolant level in the tank rises, starts to leak, and then when the coolant cools, it goes down below where the screws attach. So it took a little while to figure out where the leak was actually coming from.

I also noted a slight leak coming from the thermostat housing. I've ordered parts, but haven't received them yet.

One thing that bothers me: I note that the recovery tank level is rising quite high. I don't know how high it should go, but need to look carefully at my cooling system. Everything else has checked out, though.

I am considering adding a transmission cooler to the system. Has anyone done this on a big Pontiac? I wouldn't mind info on where you bolted it up.
Like I said in my last post, it gets awful hot in these here parts - over 120F - and I'd like to give my cooling system every assistance.

CARQUEST (if you have 'em there) has a heavy duty flush that works well it specifically says "Not for vehicles with aluminum heads" so it must be strong stuff. Youd be suprised how corroded the cooling system might be, especially if you saw behind the freeze plugs on older cars. You may also want to consider converting to a 4 row radiator (some small radiator shops can do it for cheap) if it doesnt already have one.

[soon2b2ltmp]

I am in the middle of a radiator change out since I noticed some leakage coming from the radiator. I purchased a cross-flow 4 row radiator made by Proliance from summit racing.

Now, There really isnt a need for a transmission cooler because you allready have one. If you follow the transmission lines (if you have an auto trans), they will go into the radiator. it runs through the radiator, so you dont have to by an extra trans cooler, unless your planning on doing alot of high speed driving.

once you flush the radiator, and you add new coolant consider adding Purple Ice or Water wetter. Also Change out the Fan clutch, when I took mine old one out it was covered in greasy dirt which was killing its ability to turn on.

[Tennesseestorm]

Sounds great. We will look forward to seeing the finished product when you get through.

As far as the cooling system, I agree - it may need to be flushed, or at least drain and refill with new coolant. So far, I have had no trouble with mine (radiator), but it appears to have been repaired before. As far as that cooling tank goes, I have not noticed mine "filling up". I will look next time I drive it though.

Originally Posted by michaeld

Tennesseestorm,
I actually GOT her cleaned up (i.e., meaning rubbing compound and wax). She DOES look a lot better. I haven't done the bumpers or chrome, however.

I've got another problem to occupy my attention, however. I noticed antifreeze leaking from the recovery tank when the car is fully warmed up. The leak is coming from where the screws attach. The coolant level in the tank rises, starts to leak, and then when the coolant cools, it goes down below where the screws attach. So it took a little while to figure out where the leak was actually coming from.

I also noted a slight leak coming from the thermostat housing. I've ordered parts, but haven't received them yet.

One thing that bothers me: I note that the recovery tank level is rising quite high. I don't know how high it should go, but need to look carefully at my cooling system. Everything else has checked out, though.

I am considering adding a transmission cooler to the system. Has anyone done this on a big Pontiac? I wouldn't mind info on where you bolted it up.
Like I said in my last post, it gets awful hot in these here parts - over 120F - and I'd like to give my cooling system every assistance.

[michaeld]

Hey, guys. As usual, very good advice.

I'll have to keep Stuart's MP3 suggestion in mind; right now, I'm mostly interested in making certain the car RUNS right. But pretty soon I'll start looking to refining its amenities.

I've got a question regarding radiator flushing: How much better of a job do you think the rad shops can do if you pull the rad out and bring it to them? I had one mechanic tell me that's how he does it to get a more thorough job. Also, how much better of a job do you think a rad shop can do by backflushing than we can at home? I've got a place in town that backflushes for around $40. I'm considering using them anyway, as I wouldn't have to deal with the mess.

Re: flushing. I definitely plan a flush job when I get all my parts (thermostat and coolant recovery tank). The cheapest I've found is $59 + $10 shipping. Steep for a plastic jug, but as I don't know my system's normal coolant level, I want to keep everything same-same. So I won't go the Pep Boys route.

As for a trans cooler... Yeah, the trans is cooled by the radiator. As I understand it, the trans fluid still gets cooled by the rad - as you connect the trans cooler on the return hose back to the trans, but you get that additional cooling off. But in any event, it is a help keeping the entire cooling stystem stay cool by taking some of the load off the radiator. In the Palm Springs area, you not only have to deal with high ambient temps (exceeding 120F), but you also have a lot of grades to climb as there are mountains and hills surrounding the valley. I go up to Yucca Valley, and I have to do some CLIMBING.

Should I replace my radiator? For me, it largely depends on the condition of the one I've got. I took a look at it through the shroud, and it looks very clean. It may have been replaced. If it hasn't, I wouldn't doubt that it is at least partially blocked. If it has been replaced, it could HAVE a 4 row model. I try to peer around for a part number or manufacturer label. I'd be surprised if the unit is original; it looks too good.

If I had to replace the radiator, I would definitely go with the biggest, baddest one I could install; and then I wouldn't install a trans cooler (too much $ to do both jobs). Few people realize it, but cooling issues are the underlying cause for over 3/4 of all engine rebuilds. The funny thing is that 3/4 of the people who DO rebuild their engines don't overhaul their cooling sytems.

[michaeld]

Hey, guys. As usual, very good advice.

I'll have to keep Stuart's MP3 suggestion in mind; right now, I'm mostly interested in making certain the car RUNS right. But pretty soon I'll start looking to refining its amenities.

I've got a question regarding radiator flushing: How much better of a job do you think the rad shops can do if you pull the rad out and bring it to them? I had one mechanic tell me that's how he does it to get a more thorough job. Also, how much better of a job do you think a rad shop can do by backflushing than we can at home? I've got a place in town that backflushes for around $40. I'm considering using them anyway, as I wouldn't have to deal with the mess.

Re: flushing. I definitely plan a flush job when I get all my parts (thermostat and coolant recovery tank). The cheapest I've found is $59 + $10 shipping. Steep for a plastic jug, but as I don't know my system's normal coolant level, I want to keep everything same-same. So I won't go the Pep Boys route.

As for a trans cooler... Yeah, the trans is cooled by the radiator. As I understand it, the trans fluid still gets cooled by the rad - as you connect the trans cooler on the return hose back to the trans, but you get that additional cooling off. But in any event, it is a help keeping the entire cooling stystem stay cool by taking some of the load off the radiator. In the Palm Springs area, you not only have to deal with high ambient temps (exceeding 120F), but you also have a lot of grades to climb as there are mountains and hills surrounding the valley. I go up to Yucca Valley, and I have to do some CLIMBING.

Should I replace my radiator? For me, it largely depends on the condition of the one I've got. I took a look at it through the shroud, and it looks very clean. It may have been replaced. If it hasn't, I wouldn't doubt that it is at least partially blocked. If it has been replaced, it could HAVE a 4 row model. I try to peer around for a part number or manufacturer label. I'd be surprised if the unit is original; it looks too good.

If I had to replace the radiator, I would definitely go with the biggest, baddest one I could install; and then I wouldn't install a trans cooler (too much $ to do both jobs). Few people realize it, but cooling issues are the underlying cause for over 3/4 of all engine rebuilds. The funny thing is that 3/4 of the people who DO rebuild their engines don't overhaul their cooling sytems.