[heiferhef]

Hi all, first post.
My Dad bought a '63 LeMans convertible recently. Pretty nice, he's working through a few things, one of which is in-op turn signal switch. He's having a hard time sourcing another. I'm heading down by him in a week and I have hopes of fixing it but we're wondering how hard it maybe to find another? Bit of an oddity is seems.
Here's the car and the switch in question. I'm 1350 miles away and have yet to see it myself. Someone here probably knows this car?

[TempestFugit]

Both crab claws are broken off. That switch is toast as far as self cancelling. Does it work the blinkers manually? P.S. beautiful car!

It's VERY HARD to find these switches.. and they typically go for a hundred bucks or more.



Here is a link to a discussion about replacing switch.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ht=turn+signal

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ht=turn+signal

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ht=turn+signal

If the blinkers work but do not cancel, then I think your best option at this point is to live with it until you can locate a replacement. The cancel mechanism is not repairable.

[heiferhef]

Thank you for replying. We'll get on it.
I don't think it even signals, let alone cancels. We have the nubs that broke off. I might try some wire and epoxy, can't hurt.

[tom s]

I wonder if a 3D printer could make them out of a better material?Tom

[heiferhef]

Originally Posted by tom s

I wonder if a 3D printer could make them out of a better material?Tom

I print in ABS, haven't tried PLA yet but I doubt ABS would be "better" than OEM. Usually printed parts are quite weak in the X axis due to the layers, I have done acetone vapor baths and that helps. I think I will try to fix his (reattach the nubs) and see how feasible it would be to 3-D print one, once modeled decently anyone anywhere would be able to download and print one off. Someday we'll have a host of parts we can just download and print. We'll have access to printers that will crank them out in whatever material we want. I can see you choosing a part model from an internet data base and sending it to a local print shop to print for you (in a material of your choosing) and you just go pick it up, or have it sent to you. No more obsolete parts!
It's just the modeling of the original that is really tricky for me since I don't have the skills.

[TempestFugit]

Originally Posted by heiferhef

...
I don't think it even signals, let alone cancels.

Ok, that's significant, if it does not work the blinkers at all, then that means there is more going on than just the cancel arms broken off!

If they don't blink then the contacts, which are on the underside of the switch, are not positioned correctly. Probably someone in the past has opened up the hub to see why they didn't cancel and then put it back together incorrectly.

Look closely at the pictures & description in the thread about replacing the switch, something was messed up putting it back together... it could be either inside the parts of the switch, or it could be that the gap is too wide between the top of the column collar and the hub.

If all the parts are there, it's just a matter of carefully putting it back together and you should get the blinkers working again, no cancel, but blinkers will work. There is also an internal spring and ball that keeps the actuator in position, if that is missing the arm will flop around and not hold itself in the middle (off) position.

P.S. If you find that there are missing parts, (springs, ball, etc.) there are probably people around here, like me, who have kept an old non cancelling switch or parts that still operates the blinkers. If you need that, I'll see if I can find one or maybe someone else has one.

[JohnFromVentura]

I have a new NOS one for a 63. John

[heiferhef]

Originally Posted by JohnFromVentura

I have a new NOS one for a 63. John

PM'd

[heiferhef]

First day of vacation in Florida at Dad's.
I'm working on this and want to verify the switch is inop before I dig deep or spend the big $$ on a new one. I wonder if there is a wiring diagram online?

[heiferhef]

Find diagram, not convinced the switch is even getting power so am working through the diagram. Running lights works but that's were it ends, he used to have turn signals but not self canceling, now nothing.

[JohnFromVentura]

Check the 8 pin connector under the dash. Make sure that the pins haven't been pushed out of either side of the half's. Best schematic is the large color coded laminated one sold on ebay!

[heiferhef]

Okay, this is fun for me.
Studied wiring for a bit. Went to Harbor Freight (just down the street) for a multi tester, wire and epoxy.
Concluded the flasher was fried. This theory further supported when my Dad told me his mechanic forgot to hook up the voltage regular and my Dad drove it home that way.
Flasher pin showed burns, new flasher allowed for blinker operation again.
Then went onto address non-self cancel and I used wire, heated and then melted into broken nub, corresponding hole in mating side, then a little epoxy to reinforce it.
Even if this fails, at least he has working signals again and he's back to where he started.
If you look closely you can see the wire sticking out of the arm and I'm holding the nub, which has a hole melted into it to match the wire. We'll see.

[heiferhef]

Works great. I don't know if it'll last.
Threads on the shaft are knackered (not by me!)
Gunna wait until we can bring it to mechanic on Monday and have him chase the threads and re-attach wheel and such but should be good to go.

[rdtripn_rte66]

Look to buy new cam when possible. Don't come around often.

[TempestFugit]

Kudos to you for doing it! Please keep us posted on how it works out.

[heiferhef]

We've been driving it around quite a bit this week. Turn signals are working fine and self canceling fine too.....so far.
My only concern with the car at this point is the temp idiot light comes on if you get stuck in traffic. Maybe ditching the engine fan and putting in an electric would help with idling temps. Radiator feels warm all over so I think flow is good through it.
Anyway, nice car. I haven't driven something that vintage in a while, it's different, that's for sure. Very cool cruising around in it, very cool. Thanks for your input everyone.

[tom s]

Get a laser temp gun and check the temp of the water going in and out of the radiator.For sure check the timing.A lot of over heating problems come from retarded timing.If me the first thing I would do is put manual temp and oil pressure Gage's on the car.I never trust factory idiot lights.Tom